Passionate 3D printing and modelling enthusiast, always aiming for the highest quality and best possible service.
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Hi @tekniksinc can you describe what state the printer is in when it stops? Is it making a noise (as though it’s jammed)? Is the nozzle still extruding plastic, but all in one place? Are the stepper motors very hot (be careful testing this!). Try printing other objects to try and work out whether…
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Hi @FormlabsDK good to hear, thanks for responding. When my Form 2 worked it produced beautiful prints and it was actually a tough decision to return it even with the faults, so if the Form 3 can be more reliable (and larger, better in other ways, etc.) it should be a great machine.
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Hi @devdeque I’d probably try printing with another material - PLA, for example. I know you need to print in ABS but printing with another material and seeing how that behaves may give you more clues to solve the problem. For example, if PLA isn’t sticking either you can probably rule out the bed …
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Hi @FormlabsDK very excited about this release, I’ve been waiting! One key question on my mind is how the resin cartridges and print beds are detected/registered. I had a Form 2 a year or so ago and it had constant issues with reporting the cartridge as missing mid-print, etc. and eventually I got…
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Hi @diogomaniac I can’t give you any definite choice, but I can say I’ve been very happy with my CR-10S so far. It’s not perfect, but it does a good job for the price and with some models/materials it produces better results than my other machines that cost far more. The Creality also has a huge o…
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Hi @fits yes, Meshmixer can do it (it’s kinda in the name!), though personally I find its interface a little awkward to use. If all you want to do is combine two STLs I’d recommend Microsoft’s 3D Builder, it’s free from MS’s app store. It’s a pretty simple program but it carries out combine functi…
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Hi @leejones15 that’s certainly a mess! Further to wirlybird’s comment, what slicer are you using? Does it have a default profile for the Sigma? Even for PLA, 185C is low and it might be that 205C still isn’t high enough depending on the brand and/or the machine characteristics, I’ve had some PLA…
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Hi @User_6914 looks to me like you don’t have enough top layers. I usually aim for at least 1mm thickness for both top and bottom and/or 5-6 layers, depending on layer height, so you’d only need 5 layers at 0.2mm layer height, but maybe as many as 10 for 0.1mm height (though 8 is usually enough). …
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Hi @mjh410 what are your print head temperature/fan settings? What material are you using? Jon
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Hi @john_d12 not sure what might have changed in recent models (my FF Pro is a couple of years old now), but I have a gcode file for levelling the bed that does all the movements automatically (with on-screen prompts). It’s in the Utils subdirectory of the SD card called “PlateLeveling”. Please ch…
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@armandoperez don’t worry, I’ve got an empty (and some full) 750g reels here and I’ve just remembered I have got a 300g reel (full) here somewhere. When I get a chance I’ll dig the scales out and weigh them, should be later today. Jon
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Hi @armandoperez sorry I don’t have an empty (or full) 300g reel, but I just thought I’d ask if you’ve included 750g reels in your app (like those from Fillamentum and others)? Jon
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Hi folks, here’s my experience unboxing and setting up my new Creality CR10S-Pro a week or so ago. Enjoy!
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@ashton_fora you don’t have to give up entirely, just think smaller for now, start somewhere nearer the bottom than trying to start near the top, and keep the bulk of your savings in reserve. For example, you could get a good hand-held scanner capable of scanning quite large objects (though probabl…
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HI @ashton_fora I was originally a 3D modeller, although I suspect I started a while before you… I was using what was then 3D Studio R2.5 (I think) for DOS back in the mid-1990s, Lightwave and the early versions of Softimage. Before 3DS I used a DOS program that rendered entirely from scripts, but…
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Hi @ashton_fora it’s good you’ve planned for a training period, you’ll certainly need it, both 3D printing and scanning are far from “push button” operation yet. One of the reasons I’d suggest scanning only first is that while a knowledge of 3D modelling software is useful for 3D printing, it’s rea…
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Hi @ashton_fora I’d respectfully suggest you need a lot more than “only” a shop in a good place and a full body scanner. If you’re asking the questions you’re asking, there’s a LOT of learning that needs to happen before you could realistically run a business selling a product. Essentially you’ve …
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I’d make sure the tension on both belts is correct (look online for guides), I’m wondering if the head/bed is skipping teeth back and forth to create Marvin’s odd shape. Do try printing a simple square (if you’ve no tools to make one, let me know and I’ll upload something) as this will help pin dow…
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Hi @Sam_Wyatt that is, without a doubt, the worst 3D print I’ve seen in a long time. It’s so bad, it makes me think there’s probably one single thing that’s very wrong, rather than there being several small things, if you see what I mean. The overall quality of the print is poor, but interestingly…
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Yeah, PrintBite does seem to need to ramp the temp right up to get it sticky enough for ABS and it becomes unstuck at still quite a high temp (around 60C in my experience). They could do with trying to reduce those values - it’d be great if it was sticky at, say, 65C and didn’t become unstuck until…
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@hexbugspider I’ve used PEI for years (and still use it on my Prusa) and it works great for PLA - no adhesive necessary unless the model has very fine parts laid onto the bed. You might also consider PrintBite. I’ve recently installed this onto my FF Pro and it’s been a revelation in terms of use …
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Hi @achelp, as @Jory has said, shrinkage is not really machine-specific but rather the nature of the plastics used in FDM printing. FDM really isn’t that dimensionally accurate (at least not in precision engineering terms). “Waterproofing” is a whole other issue. Most FDM prints may look solid an…
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Hi @hexbugspider PLA will probably need some “help” to stick to a glass bed, but it’s one of the more forgiving materials in terms of bed adhesion so you probably won’t need much. There’s a product called “3D Lac” that’s popular with 3D printers - I use it all the time - and that alone should be en…
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Hi @Gabriel_107 you could print the dice using FDM, a good well-configured machine could probably produce decent enough results. However, you’ll get much better look and feel from SLA printing. Not only will you get a much smoother surface, you’ll almost certainly get heavier dice and the weight w…
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Hi @Gabriel_107 are you printing these yourself or having them printed by a 3rd party? If printing yourself, what machine (technology) are you using?
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Ten inches square is bigger than most (not all) consumer printers can handle, but eight inches would be doable by most. The design itself is pretty simple from a 3D point of view, I’d probably recommend printing as separate sides, then fixing them together to form a cube as this’ll give you the bes…
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Are you looking for it to be printed in colour? What size do you consider “reasonably big”.
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Tell me about it! It seems a new one comes out every day at the moment. I’m very interested in Prusa’s SLA machine - I really miss my Form 2, even though it had problems. That said, I tend to go with known and trusted manufacturers and, ideally, machines that are in their 2nd version (or more). …
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Ah, sorry! I do like the MMU setup (and that partial reel thing sounds good). I do intend to get a Mk3 at some point, either to replace or supplement my existing Mk2 and would certainly get the MMU. Mind you, by the time I get to that point we’ll probably be on the Mk5 or even higher!
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It’s a tough call - especially given that you can get two Mk3’s for the price of one Sigma. It’s a combination of soluble supports and the ability to print simultaneously with two heads that attracts me to the Sigma. Like you, I rarely have a need for actual dual-colour printing. It’s also a bigg…
