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That’s correct regarding the thermocouple. Not only must it be the correct thermocouple it must be electrically isolated from the heater block. Most sold on eBay are not. You must source a reliable thermocouple specifically for 3dp. Electric noise will cause errant readings, and a heater short to th…
CTC is using the 2560 mega? That is the first I am hearing of this. Can you post a photo of your chip?
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And you dont have a rep2, your CTC is a rep1 clone. No matter what CTC tells you. You MUST use replicator dual profiles everywhere. Also, and I can’t prove this, but I’m pretty sure that CTC is not providing bootloader on the motherboard making updating firmware via usb impossible.
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This is wrong information. You have the 1280 processor. You must download the repg from thingiverse repGr33. It is the only thing that will work. Using the version supplied with you printer will corrupt your eeprom maps with sailfish.
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Is it 5mm or is your 6%? If you select a replicator 2 you will see the 6% error as it has one more tooth on its drive gears. Make sure you have replicator dual selected as your machine type.
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This is a very dangerous situation. You have an uncontrolled heater situation and these printers can melt the aluminum heating block causing a fire. One kilo of abs plastic has more energy then 1 gallon of gasoline. You have the wires for left and right crossed. You are heating a block not connected…
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Are you using Makerbot desktop to slice? I don’t use it, so this is secondhand information given to me by the authors of sailfish. Makerbot has been making their slicers more and more hostile to the clone printers. They have also a very good track record of not testing updates on legacy machines. My…
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I believe this is simple bed prep. The gap between the nozzle and bed is either to large or the bed surface needs to be prepped for better adhesion. I personally use glass and Aquanet for the majority of my needs. If your printing PLA on blue tape try wiping it with ISO alcohol before printing. For …
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Backlash is a mechanical issue. You can not fix a mechanical issue with software.
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I hope its not a geetech board. You will need a different power supply as it lacks the 5v regulator. It comes with incompatible drivers, the standard drv8825’s which are a different pinout then the botsteps. as well as few other issues. ebay is generally the worst place to get replacement parts. My …
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You may also want to invest some time into reading “The Manual” http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/sailfish.html . Pay close attention to section 5 the slicer calibration chapter.
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I bet you did not straighten the filament before you put it in. Also , there may be old filament still in the thermal barrier. Basicly you couldn’t find the hole. At this point you will learn how to disassemble your extruder. You will need to remove the fan and heatsink from the front allowing acces…
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Remember these are wooden machines, running on questionable electronics( low side switching with the ability for a MOSFET to fault on ) , with little to no safety interlocks, capable of burning down a house. 1KG of ABS plastic contains more stored energy then 1 KG of gasoline. I agree on the less t…
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Basicly the lug screws into the hole the ring type was mounted. It seems to be the newer prefered method, both MBI and Flashforge have switched to these. You need to ensure the lug is M3 to be compatible with your block. Here is one thing that you may find, with the lug type sensor you tend to set y…
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http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/tuning-slicer-calibration.html#x27-670005.1 This is essentially the 3d printing bible. Please follow the calibration steps there. the 20mm 100% infill cube is the proper way to calibrate these machines. A good rule of thumb for setting filament temps, hotter pri…
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OK, lets all just take a step back and get to be friends again. CTC is an copy of an open source design, they took from flashforge. CTC as a company does not have the best reputation, in my opinion ( i don’t want to be threatened by another employee of CTC with litigation ). If you look at the 3dhub…
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The fact of the situation here, is a rookie user is attempting to print an advanced model on a bottom of the barrel knock off of a clone. I am not saying that this is impossible, but this is not a good start print. Overhangs, unsupported hat brims, facial features, this is a very complex model being…
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The fan pointed at the motherboard is a good source for that fan. It was put there by makerbot to address a voltage regulator problem that our bots don’t suffer from. Generally you print a second duct with your first poorly printed duct, with much better results.
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Unfortunately there’s no magic answer here. This will all depend on the type of plastic being used. You will find there is a sweet spot. 5 house fans might be a little overkill, you will need some heat to get good inter later bonding, but then it must cool before the next layer. The print head is al…
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You’re pointing a house fan at you printer? I hope the real take away here is that no setting will ever overcome a physical hardware (lack of cooling) condition.
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That looks like the lug is to large, 8mm threads are listed. These guys are not cheap, but they have an impeccable reputation in the community. https://www.bilby3d.com.au
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Be very careful buying replacement parts on eBay. While you are correct, our printer uses a type k thermocouple, it must be electrically isolated from the sending lug. Remember our bots switch the heater on the low side, meaning both wires of the heater core have positive voltage until needed. If th…
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Also point a fan at your print. You can install a gcode controlled fan, Redirecting to Google Groups
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When you installed sailfish did you write down the offsets, reset the eeprom back to factory settings, then restore you old homing offsets? This is a crucial step. Are you printing over usb? this is not advised. people may tell you they do it all the time, but I listen to the author of the firmware…
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You’re probably lucky those files are empty, ctc provides the wrong versions anyway. You should ignore the repg that was provided and use the version hosted on thingiverse, with the sailfish firmware. Using the version provided will corrupt your EEPROM tables and cause troubles specific to the store…
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First of all, you have replicator 1 dual clone not a rep 2. If you choose rep 2 anywhere your prints will come out 6% smaller. And if you install rep 2 firmware you will get just blocks across your lcd. Again, I know that CTC may have even said it is a rep 2, you have a replicator dual. Make sure yo…
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There is no PID autotune in sailfish. You can change all the paramaters manualy through the onboard preferences in RepG. There were some changes recommended for rep2x users as there was some fan wash. AKeric and I share inspiration for our printers, mine is the triple leadscrew varient, any advice y…
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since the changes to cloudflare internet caching, all sailfish firmware can be downloaded using RepG040 r30 and above. r33 is the current release and can be found at Sailfish Firmware by jetty - Thingiverse .
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You must use the gpx plug in for octoprint. Yes, it works.
![[Wiring diagram( New version) mightyboard.jpg]](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/uploads/db5060/original/3X/3/8/38735ec28999c5305c3f31ef531d280e2ff7c50c.jpg){kind=link}