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Mar 2016

Hey all. New to the Robo and 3D Hubs. I got my R1+ today and have been trying to print marvin, but all of the underneath parts look all rough and “melty”. I tried lowering my extruder temp from 210 to 200 (as suggested in the marvin PDF), but it still looks the same.

Any thoughts?

Robo 3D R1+ with PLA.

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    Mar '16
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    Mar '16
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There are 54 replies with an estimated read time of 7 minutes.

Are you printing with supports (shouldn’t need supports), I have an R1 as well. Check if you fans on while printing it may not be cooling fast enough.

Better cooling will definitely help so you could print out a fan holder to assist the filament with cooling. You could lower the temp a bit more so that it hardens sooner, try 185-190C. I believe you should be able to print with those low temps as long as it doesn’t get cooled down past 180C, at which the printer will stop printing to prevent jams. I have a Robo R1 and I use a fan from thingiverse.

Interesting, thanks. I will check that out!

I just tried at 195 and almost no filament came out, so I canceled the print. Thought I’d try a different filament, but when I attempted my (first) unload, the filament seems to be stuck… sigh.

Hmm, if it’s jamming at 195C then just keep it at 200C. What’s the fan power set to?

Use fans on, maybe increase your “minimum time per layer”. If you have a heated bed, make sure it’s turned down (60c gets too hot… I keep mine @40C for PLA).

Try different filament – each color seems to have it’s own sweet spot. I’ve had issues with MicroCenter Grey and Silver filaments (no matter what temp, you can get a few layers, but then it jams), but the rest seem to work ok.

When removing filament, I usually go to “Preheat PLA”, and it can be pulled cleanly out at ~100-120C, without leaving remnants in the chamber.

Try printing a “tower” next to the Marvin. By tower I mean just a cylinder a little taller than the Marvin, this moves the hot end away from the print for a few seconds so the print cools, see if this helps good luck

Silly question I guess but do I have to hold back the little lever when removing the filament (the one you pull back when loading it)?

I preheated the extruder and pulled on the filament, but it’s not budging.

I got am email with your comment, but now here there’s just a “.” - did you delete it on purpose or was that a mistake?

I use repetier and heat up the nozzle, run it 10mm foward (extruding) and then in reverse. I pull it when its in reverse and it comes right out. No use of the lever.

Yep, attached.

Looks like my extruder is clogged… just talked to tech support and they had me try a few things but the filament is not budging. Not sure what to do next, but I sent them some pictures of the inside of the latch. Bunch of ground up filament in there.

Are you using Matter control to print? Are you printing without support,

Try using a different program to print like Simplify3d to see if it’s better

I kept killing the PTFE tube trying to print ABS (it does work, but it has to go from heating->printing->cooling without delay and my bed was taking its sweet time heating, so heat made it up from the nozzle to the PTFE tube and…), so now I replaced it. You can probably prevent failures by adding a cooling fan like for the all-metal hotends.

E3D - Good, but I got one of the ones from a bad batch. And it’s not fast to get them…

B3 Pico Innovations - Great… but the tube is thin and I snapped it off inadvertently. Also kinda long.

Hexagon - Great and pretty durable. I put the thermistor in and bend it upwards before sliding the silicone boot on so it won’t fall out.

The E3Dv6 has a Teflon tube to make it easier to use with flex (and since the PTFE is in the “actively cooled” part of the hotend, it won’t fail like the Robo3D version), but I’ve found a great pair of solutions for that:

1. Bore out the throat and put a PTFE tube from the hobbed bolt down to the top of the hotend.

2. When the hotend is clear (I made the Nylon Cold Pull thing on Thingiverse… works very well), spray some WS2 or HBN lube down it, insert a cold filament and spin it around. Do that 3 times, and the inside of the hotend will be noticeably slicker (before lube, it takes pliers to do the cold-pull. Afterwards, you can do it by hand – still a tug, but by hand).

The other thing that was problematic with my original Robo3D was the hobbed bolt… mine came in a way that kept filling itself with plastic and would stop extruding (consistently) after 4 hours (grr)… replaced with one from eBay.

Thanks much for all that info. A lot to digest but I will keep it all in mind (and this page bookmarked).

It sounds like you might have pulled molten plastic into the upper portion of your extruder when you tried to pull it out. This might have caused the plastic to cool down inside the plastic portion on your extruder. If this is the case you might have to take it apart and drill it out “carefully!” This happened to me once, so now I pull it out slowly at the plastics lower transition temperature so that it doesn’t solidify inside the upper extruder. All I did was pull the cover off and removed the idler arm and drilled it out. Then I took a round tapered file and smoothed it out. Adding an oiler to your filament feed will help prevent this from happening again, or what I do is just occasionally wide some virgin olive oil onto the filament once in a while when I am extruding a lot of plastic to clean out the hot end during a change over. Hope this helps and good luck!

Thanks for the info!

I did my Skype session with them yesterday and we manage to clear it by removing the hot end, heating it up, cutting the stuck filament flush with the top of the hot-end, then pushing it through the bottom using the small wrench.

Interestingly though, after my successful test print that followed, while the extruder was hot I tried to remove the filament so that I could change it and it won’t come out. Doesn’t move AT ALL when I tug on it.

So, while I’ve cleared my clog, I seem to be unable to remove filament, and that worries me…

Q: Do I need a different tube in order to print with PETG? The tech on the phone yesterday said something about that…

I’m not sure what the idler arm means, but I’m not doing anything but pulling up on the filament (per Robo3D’s instructions).

The idler arm is the spring loaded arm that applies pressure to the filament against the hobble bolt that drives it into the extruder.

Ah, okay. No, I’m not using that trying to remove, only when I load. Is that the correct method?

To remove I’m just heating the extruder to print temp, then tugging straight up on the filament. It doesn’t move at all.

Is it possible the screws are too tight on the idler arm?

No, your not doing it right! Take one hand and put your middle and index fingers on the spring screws, while with your thumb pulling back on the arm. Then you are releasing the pressure allowing you to use your other hand to pull the filament slowly up and out, so as to not pull molten plastic out with it!

Gah, seriously!? I asked both techs I talked to what the proper procedure was, and specifically asked if I should be pushing the latch back like I do when loading, and they both said “no, just heat the extruder and gently pull up on the filament”.

Sigh.

Lol! There is the alt method of reversing your extruder stepper motor, but this would be more awkward and possibly pull molten plastic up with it!

Okay, well… I will try changing filament again when this next print finishes. Thanks for the tips!

It’s the weirdest thing. I push that tab back, and yeah the filament pulls out nice and easy UNTIL I’ve pulled about a 3" length or so out and then it just stops and refuses to go any farther.

Any thoughts appreciated!