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This is going to sound realy silly! lol, but can you not cut the pipe off shorter so it fits flush to the wall?
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This is true, but to hit dead lines you sometime need to, and I will often schedule other peoples work in after, or not accept another jobs completely due to having accept another, so if the customer then pulls out I have not just lost one job but 2! Or maybe they have to pay a non refunded deposit…
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I would like to point out there is a significant difference between trying to something on a stall, or sell a car, than someone backing out of an agreed order! for example, if you buy a car then do not pay for it, it will very quickly be taken back lol. So to have an initial discussion with a custo…
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I think the compressive strength of a solid lump of PLA would surprise a lot of people!!..lol. but again I suggest you do some small trials with different material types! a worst case scenario is that nothing form a 3D printer works, but you will have learnt allot in the process! and have a better …
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To be honest I would simply test some different materials! Start of with the basic PLA, then ABS, and move up the scale to the more exotic like PLA-Carbon Fiber, and Nylon. I think these will need to be printed with solid infill, but for small batch runs I think PLA will probably work! It can take …
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ouch! looks like a nasty one to me! could the main ultimaker board be over heating? causing a slightly dodgy solder joint to fail/short causing the freeze out? are you able to run the printer with an addition fan blowing across the board? Either way, sounds like a new main board may be required.
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PVA Glue, on glass build plate works just fine for me!
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PLA or ABS? ABS can be tricky to get to stick to a bed 110° bed temp for ABS, and it will probably need a Kapton tape surface. PLA is a little easier, 60ish °c bed temp, and get yourself some PVA glue sticks! give the bed a wipe over with the PVA glue stick, let it dry and try that.
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hmm price is no object, I would go for a Hexagon Metrolagy, Cognitens wls unit…£100,000 + gives detail down to about 0.05mm, most important thing is it has feature recognition! so it knows when a round hole is a hole! and a slot is a slot etc. can do both inspection work, and reverse engineering. I…
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these are awesome!!
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Hi Arnoldas, I have just noticed, thank you for the very prompt response!
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I Also have 2 orders that are in this situation, im sure there used to be a countdown timer that showed the time until payout, could this be re-introduced as I found this very hepfull? 2 weeks is far to long for 3D hubs to be holding onto money, unless they plan to pay a good rate of interest when …
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I like the idea!!, I also have about 6 spools with little bits left that I would love to use up.
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Hi, Thanks for the quick responses and feedbacks! has stopped happening now.
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just curious to know, as every time i go to an open order a link pops up saying i need to enter my payout info and to “click here” i know my payout info is already set up as i regularly receive payouts from 3Dhubs. anyone else experienced this?
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i use an Ultimaker 2, I havnt noticed any negative effects on the printer, I have about 10 spools in various colours from numerious suppliers. layer bonding is fine, I have actually had more problems with the colorfab PLA/PHA than the ebay stuff…lol (These I have resolved now.) The one thing I ha…
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White Cheap Ebay PLA for me lol, I get very few failures, its pretty stong, can be glue with Poly cement if required, can be sanded, painted, drilled etc…I usually do a load of test prints before I run the actual order, especially if if complex or has a thread on it…
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Hi, I have just had a look at your CAD file, and i think 3D printed parts should be strong enough for your application! the main weakness when 3D printing is the “layering” where these can separate when under tension, but i think your application has minimal tensional loads so should be ok. i woul…
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0.05mm I would say is fine…i print at this height a lot when the physical print size is very small. I have an Ultimaker 2 and it doesn’t miss a beat at this height! i would agree partially that “Reprap” style printers may struggle at this layer height but the more expensive end of the market should …
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I would maybe dial back the extrusion multiplier…maybe to about 105%
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Fully agree with this, maybe up the min layer time to 10-15 sec…
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Do one for the Ultimaker 2!
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So the same g-code produces similar results on a different printer? if this is the case then theres something fishy with the G-Code Generation. can you attach the G-Code to this conversation and I will give it a look over.
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Check that all X, Y, Z axis are square! Check that the Electronics are not getting to hot. Put a Fan on them and try printing again.
if you printed this hook end on what weight would the layers separate at? it would also be good to see some tensile lab tests conducted, so yield, UTL, elongation, etc. (in 3 different directions across layers, with the layers, and diagonal.)
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it would help when ordering filament for a specific job, as spools are usually sold by weight, prime example is colorfabb. you buy a 1kg or 750g spool. Would also help when choosing a spool to use when printing, so if you have a load of half used spools, you can simply pop them on the scales and se…
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Simple answer Answer to this. is no…lol, the 2 main materials for 3D printing have melting points around 210°C (65°C Glass transition) for PLA and 230°C (105°C Glass transition) for ABS so these would be deforming at and about the Glass transition temp. it sounds like you need to use PEEK, as far a…
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you are talking about a closed loop system, these types of Closed loop system are very commonly used in CMM equipment and super high precision Milling/Grinding machines, most commonly they would use a type of glass scale. I would say unless you are after accuracies greater then 0.005mm then they are…
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i would also like this feature back! was very handy!, I have used it where bottom faces were not quite flat do I sink it into the bed 0.2mm, this gives good flat faces then.
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Looking at the photos, I would say that the filament is jamming in the nozzle area, looking at the picture showing the filament end from inside the nozzle, you should NOT have that swaged type form where there is that flared out piece of plastic! it should measure 3.2ish mm all the way to the point.…