Safe temperature for printed parts, required thickness.

[Richard_Goodwin]

I need a part that can take 300 degrees F (150 C) for 20 seconds without deforming. Can the standard 3D print materials handle that?

Also, how thick should I make a printed plate with pins on it so the plate will hold together long enough to glue it to a board. (I need a bunch of pins with a specified spacing and want to save on the materials cost, so I will attach to a board afterword).

[steven_10]

Simple answer Answer to this. is no…lol,

the 2 main materials for 3D printing have melting points around 210°C (65°C Glass transition) for PLA and 230°C (105°C Glass transition) for ABS so these would be deforming at and about the Glass transition temp. it sounds like you need to use PEEK, as far as I know there is only one company that can supply the Filament for printing with and it requires some skill to print with it due to the high temps required for printing.

http://www.indmatec.com/de/shop#!/PEEK-Filaments-for-FDM-3D-Printers-3m-ø2-85-mm/p/51363559/category=13004246

[Andrew3dhubs44]

Hi Richard,

The short answer is probably not. But it depends on what you mean by handle it? If the object is under load it will deform more at those high temperatures, if you can handle some deformation than it may not break completely and then will re-harden once the heat is removed.

Without seeing your plate but from what it sounds like you would be safe with 5mm and probably down to 2ish mm.

Hope this helps

Andrew

[Richard_Goodwin]

Thank you for your answers. Guess I didn’t really give enough information to get accurate answers (garbage in, garbage out). This is for a pegboard for fusible beads (Perler Beads, etc). The pins are for locating the beads and are approx 1 mm in diameter and 1 mm high, with 5 mm spacing. The beads are placed on the pins, then melted with a household iron at about 150 C for 10 seconds. If the heating is done right, there is no pressure on the pins, but it is hard to get the ironing just right. I was thinking of the pins being on a .5 mm substrate to hold them in place until they are glued to a metal plate, which would also provide heat sinking. I tried attaching a .STL of my first thoughts.
perlerTriangle.stl (44.3 MB)

[EVJoe]

So the heat source is not actually in direct contact with the printed part.

150C for 10seconds, I would say try it on a small piece, do you have a printer?

I may be able to test it in the weekend, if I can find a smaller test plate, the one you included is a tad larger than my 20x20build zone.

[Richard_Goodwin]

I have no printer, and, in fact, had to learn to draft in 3D just for this. The .stl I posted before was scaled to fit the bed used by the local printer I choose. I looked up the Ultimaker 2 he uses and it seems to be 223x223 mm if I understand. It would be in ABS or PLA-PHA.

I have attached .stl of a small section of the grid, but it would really be above and beyond for you to try it. Anyway, do you Perler (or have a daughter that does). A Fusible bead is a cylinder 4.95mm diameter by 5mm long with a 2mm diameter (approx) hole through the center. It will melt and flow in a oven at 375, or with a iron set a “wool” (pressing on the iron). The manufacturer of the beads sell pegboards of plastic, but I don’t know their specifications. They make a set of pegboards that link together to any size, but they are a square pattern, and I want triangular. I am hoping to be able to set the pieces in my first .stl together to make any size.

Thank you so much for your consideration.

ETA: nevermind, I think I will just have the printing done and see what happens.
trialhex_0.stl (125 KB)

[EVJoe]

Didnt have any perler that fit those pins, but still wanted to get an idea of how long it can take the heat.

So I exposed the PLA part to a 150C heatgun, it took around 10-15seconds from stable contact to melting, so with a perl/bead inbetween I think it will be ok for smaller areas at a time.

Even better with ABS.

I resized the height to 5mm, since it was very thin to print, kept the other dimentions the same.

[Richard_Goodwin]

Thanks greatly, that is a big help.

[kr0sh1]

Try polycarbonate also, delamination can be an issue unless it’s printed at high temperature and speed but it’s very strong and has a glass transition temperature of 147 C.