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Can you post what the problems are? there are sites to help with issues with this printer. we have a couple and basically we just keep them going but they are being left to die, not much you can control in the software and the cartridges are a pain the deal with, when the filament breaks inside the …
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My Makerbot Replicator 2 has the same limitation of 2GB max, SDHC is fine, it is the size of the card. I found some microSD 2GB cards and have been using these just to have spares. The original one has the covers starting to come apart and is temperamental when inserting the card.
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There is not much you can do to correct the “left” side, the model is printed with the knob away from the bed so basically the “left” side is being printed in the air since you are not using supports. Adding a part /filament cooling fan in addition to the extruder fan will reduce the larger droops a…
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Not much for SLA material, but polycarbonate has good transparency to IR and can be printed ff printers.
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Looks like you are also using inventor. Here are my steps 1. create solid cylinder (revolve a rectangle around the Z axis) 2. Use the XZ Plane and create a new axis off the center of the first cylinder and the angle desired 3. Create a rectangle off the new axis and revolve a new cylinder 4. re…
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Here is a quick model made in inventor of your nozzle, the dimensions are not exact, hard to take measurements of a mesh model. Steps are create the lower cylinder, draw a line from the center at an angle, draw a rectangle and use the line as an axis of revolution, repeat. Perform a Shell operation,…
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You can see the problem in Fusion 360, go to Inspect, Section analysis pick a face (I used one of the top faces) and then drag into the model, once you get to the intersection, you will see the outer wall is connected but the internal is split open [capture_spit.png]
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I saw this also when importing this into Inventor.
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I see the cracks, how did you create this model? Are you sure the model is 1 solid and not two solids “very close together” I have seen this happen on one of my prints where there was actually a very small gap where parts met. When this part was printing, did you watch the nozzle as it printed the u…
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I also use the microcenter PET-G, 240-245 C, all other parameters are normal Replicator settings for speed etc. increasing the temp will give you a more translucent look to the finished part. The toughest thing is to get the first layer to stick. I use this for my replicator 2 with makerware
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Looks like you need a filament cooler, the layers are drooping before the next layer comes in, try slowing down the print speed.
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I have used a roll of PLA with Carbon Fiber from Inland on my Makerbot Replicator 2, the prints are very stiff and has a nice looking surface, almost like semi-gloss. I have a MarkForged in my lab so I know that as well, the MarkForged has two nozzles, one for Nylon and the other is for Carbon Fiber…
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I had printed out a lamp shade using natural PLA, 1 pass thick, so it is very thin, used it over a compact florescent bulb 20 W and the top softened after 20 minutes. You may have luck with some 3-5 watt LED bulbs. If your design allows for airflow, it may be OK.
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Check your belts
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WOW, got to go find a cheap dehydrator now to play with. I have some filament that gave me the same finish you got with the bumps.Thanks for the info.
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If the thermistor that you found at flashforge will fit, you can remove the plastic connector from your old thermistor but gently prying the plastic tabs that hold the crimp connector in the plastic housing, while the plastic is up, the crimp connector will pull out. Insert the new connectors into t…
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You can only use a 2GB card. I tried to do what you had done in a larger card and it does not work. Try looking for microSD cards, I have one of those from an old phone.
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Yes I fixed it, I had the same problem that you described, the insulation around the heater block was torn, but when I changed it I had put the fan in backwards, took a week of debugging and found this. Ended up with a new nozzle, new insulation tape, cleaned the gear but the fan was the cause.
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I had a similar problem with my Rep 2. the cause is that the heat from the extruder is getting into the filament and softening so the gear does not advance the filament. If you did a filament unload, you should see a section where the filament looks like there is a mouse bite. Make sure the cooling …
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Much better, should be good to go. What print settings did you go with
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Should reduce the heat, the filament is not cooling enough between each layer. Try turning off the bed heater, PLA does not need a heated bed. Make sure the filament fan is running at 100% after the first layer.
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Scanning will not get you a model that you can print and function, If you scan in the orientation of the left photo, you will not get the internal structure. The best way to get this done is to build a 3D model from scratch in a CAD program. You can probably do this with a scale (ruler) in mm. I hav…
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This is the ones I order from Amazon, cheap. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B41K7OM/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Try the Purple Elmers glue stick to enhance the adhesion of the filament onto the aluminum surface to get the print started.
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See this link on cleaning the Buildtak
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The nozzle is set too far from the bed. I have a Makerbot Replicator 2 so not sure if your menus are the same, but in the Utilities menu, there is a “Bed Leveling” option. Go into this and set the gap to be the thickness of a sheet of paper. The other thing to improve the first layer is to use some …
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Check your X and Y belts, could be loose.
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If you have problems with the Marvin coming off the bed, try using a Raft, otherwise the usual blue tape or the laser printer transparency will do. Depending on the brand of PLA, the temp ranges can be huge. I run Inland material down to 200 deg C, Makerbot material I go to 210 to 220. As the other …
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I have had good luck with the Inland brand, less than $20.00 per roll
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What slicer are you using? if makerware, you need to change the printer to a 2X to get the heated bed setting. You can also use Simplify3D to give you more control of the printer.
![[capture_spit.png]](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/uploads/db5060/original/3X/1/5/1588a9c6420c7cfa569cfbceca8d28ddc5827656.png){kind=link}