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Would not be that hard to give it good coat Of resin and seal it up or make it in fiber glass using a 3d printed plug/mold kinda sounds like a fun project
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How tall I can do it in pla Just designed a fan duct for a rc hover craft that is 180mm in diameter Send me a message we can talk more
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I have seen some i3 designs with one lead screw for x and one for y
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this would be my first choice it looks nice a simple and would work with a e3d or any of the knock off’s but if that fails with out the fittings just run the tubing straight into the e3d should work I know it prints I used it to attempt a 3mm bowden setup long ago
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I am sures there is a prusa mount out there on one of the sites I will find it for you in a bit when I get to my computer
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Well by Vancouver area that’s not a small space but I live in the valley work in Surrey so if you need a had getting it tuned up let me know
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I have had this same issue I would look for a set of z axis wobble isolators on thingiverse They completely solved this for me What’s probably happening is your z threaded rod is not perfectly straight and its pushing your carriage one way or the other every layer
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I found the marlin firmware for the original board you could download that and it should drive your mks board as both are ramps based boards
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First off the kit looks pretty decent from the pic I don’t recognize the board but with a bit of work most boards are compatible at least the basic stuff lcd connectors may need adapters etc etc Next where abouts are you located you said you bought this in Canada but your profile says Amsterdam I am…
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With a good controller they will be fine But if you want to be sure post a pic of the label on the motor if there is one But they look bigger than the motors on my prusa really its not much more load as it’s a pretty low friction setup you might have to adjust your x jerk setting but I can help with…
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I am sure it will be fine
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Hobby shops or digikey.com Maybe if you have a radio shack like shop Amazon probably as well
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upgrades I would do x carriage frame braces extruder with a mk7 gear z rod clamp z motor mounts z screw isolator or and then find a fan mount kinda like this these should all be pretty inexpensive and were most of what I did to my machine it made a big difference with a e3d…
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Ok fair enough all prusa printers suffer from loosening up that’s were a little penetrating thread locker and a few extra nuts are for I am sure that any prusa I1/I2 style would be crap to you it is a 6 year old design how ever your printer the i3 was the evolution of this design and has a few flaws…
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There are a few other great printable upgrades like wobble isolators bearing holders for the bottom of z rods one piece motor mount and top frame parts I will this evening compile a list of thingiverse links for you that I would recommend
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If you get a i3 frame you will need new smooth rods as well at least 2 of them will be 2 short
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Ok great sales pitch I think you may have missed some points in this thread. The OP has a second machine But he is looking to renovate this printer not build a new one My prusa has been a good stable machine for almost 5 years But you make some good points a rigid frame is important so now is a good…
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I would agree worth the e3d but the duet or duet wifi is not really worth the money in this application $100-120 control board and wifi in general is a waste you still have to make sure there is nothing on the print bed and go take the part off not much need for wifi
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Yes they are available on Amazon as well as the heated beds Just aliexpress is the cheapest Dual extrusion is totaly do able with a bodwen setup like you have. This board can run 2 extruder for sure but its a pain to setup sometimes also you lose the simple way to connect a cooling fan
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Yes they are available on Amazon as well as the heated beds Just aliexpress is the cheapest Dual extrusion is totaly do able with a bodwen setup like you have
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Also good catch on the drivers I just grabbed the first link that looked not bad
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The board here are a modular system so that if one part goes you can replace just that part also its one of the cheeper more reliable setups This ramps kit looks much more complex than it is There is about 10 or so boards you could choose from.
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It has a j head directly driven currently but a e3d would fit just fine here is a link to the carriage I made http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:226440 I will have to update the pics on this maybe tonight but if you look in my collections as well you will find many great prusa mendel upgrades if …
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this looks like a geetech lcd totaly reusable pretty sure you could have that machine up and running for $30-40 here is a link to a controller on aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mega-2560-R3-Mega2560-REV3-1pcs-RAMPS-1-4-Controller-for-3D-Printer-arduino-kit-Reprap/1947676736.html?spm=21…
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A ramps setup with lcd can be had pretty cheep I have a great x carriage with bed leveling and I can recommend a couple of great extruders to run the e3d on this machine I have a old prusa running as my main machine still
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First off I would seriously recommend marlin over sprinter but it does sound like you have some configuring to do Send me a pm I can maybe setup a Skype call and walk you though it
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What control board are you using it sounds like you may not have put power to both 12v locations on your ramps board
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I would check your current setting then maybe the drive is set just a bit low the x would also need more current which would make this problem more evident. Also if you are powering down you z axis between movements there is a chance that its sagging a bit between moves
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Just for clarification my sanguinolulu has a 1284p in it
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I had to chop up the code a fair bit to get it to run with auto leveling and a LCD If you want I can pack up my firmware folder and share it or maybe I should fork it
