Wow. I’ll look into it. I’ll definitely upgrade the hotend to a E3d. How much do you think the renovation will take if I just use a regular controller board ($)? I don’t need the silent motor option, and I have a raspberry pi with octoprint for the wifi.
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Ok great sales pitch I think you may have missed some points in this thread. The OP has a second machine But he is looking to renovate this printer not build a new one My prusa has been a good stable machine for almost 5 years But you make some good points a rigid frame is important so now is a good time to go through and tighten everything and make sure everything is true and square I agree the e3d is a great upgrade get your machine up and moving again First your extruder / hot end worked before so you can use it to calibrate your new control board and stuff while you print your new carriage for the e3d if you need I would recommend a auto leveling up grade for sure it was the single best upgrade I made to my machine it went from failing 50% of the time and constantly leveling the bed to just pop in the and card and print. The auto leveling setup on the carriage I posted uses a touch probe which lets you use and build surface you like, where a inductive sensor needs a aluminium or copper or steal bed. I use glass on mine. My second printer has a steal bed with a inductive sensor on a boxed wood i3 frame with one piece printed ends and I would say its probably more rigid than any plate style prusa i3. But my j head and touch probe on my prusa just work With a little aquanet on the glass I can print pla with a bed temp of 60c and get a glass transparent and smooth base
I’ve had good luck with a MKS 1.4 board and and E3D clone hotend on my all metal HE3D Delta 600. The only drawback to the clone hotend is you need to drill and chamfer the push connect fittings.
Hobby shops or digikey.com Maybe if you have a radio shack like shop Amazon probably as well
Hmm. Could your motors handle the extra wieght of the Titan extruder? I’m not sure mine could.
Cool. Do you think my x motor can handle the extra weight of a direct drive, or should I keep it a bowden?
I am sure it will be fine
With a good controller they will be fine But if you want to be sure post a pic of the label on the motor if there is one But they look bigger than the motors on my prusa really its not much more load as it’s a pretty low friction setup you might have to adjust your x jerk setting but I can help with that
Interesting. Thanks. I am currently out of town for the holidays. Is there anything specific I should look for on the motor? Also, is there a need for that heat bed electricity rerouter if I go with the board that was suggested below? Is there a specific heated bed that I should invest in?
do you find the solution in this website 3dprintmanual.com
Hey Broncosis. Thanks for the files. I have a question about the x carriage. How would I make it a bowden e3d v6? Would that be possible, and if not do you know of any carriage designs for that specifically? I want it to be bowden, because the direct drive will limit my 3d printing space dramatically. At worst, I would just use the direct drive but I still need it for an e3d (how would I do that?). Thanks again for all your help.
I am sures there is a prusa mount out there on one of the sites I will find it for you in a bit when I get to my computer
That would be great! I’ve been looking as well, but lots of them have the belt tensioner in the middle. Mine would have to be on the back of the carriage.
this would be my first choice
it looks nice a simple and would work with a e3d or any of the knock off’s
but if that fails
with out the fittings just run the tubing straight into the e3d
should work I know it prints I used it to attempt a 3mm bowden setup long ago
Thank You!