Ok great sales pitch I think you may have missed some points in this thread. The OP has a second machine But he is looking to renovate this printer not build a new one My prusa has been a good stable machine for almost 5 years But you make some good points a rigid frame is important so now is a good time to go through and tighten everything and make sure everything is true and square I agree the e3d is a great upgrade get your machine up and moving again First your extruder / hot end worked before so you can use it to calibrate your new control board and stuff while you print your new carriage for the e3d if you need I would recommend a auto leveling up grade for sure it was the single best upgrade I made to my machine it went from failing 50% of the time and constantly leveling the bed to just pop in the and card and print. The auto leveling setup on the carriage I posted uses a touch probe which lets you use and build surface you like, where a inductive sensor needs a aluminium or copper or steal bed. I use glass on mine. My second printer has a steal bed with a inductive sensor on a boxed wood i3 frame with one piece printed ends and I would say its probably more rigid than any plate style prusa i3. But my j head and touch probe on my prusa just work With a little aquanet on the glass I can print pla with a bed temp of 60c and get a glass transparent and smooth base
Hey Broncosis. Thanks for the files. I have a question about the x carriage. How would I make it a bowden e3d v6? Would that be possible, and if not do you know of any carriage designs for that specifically? I want it to be bowden, because the direct drive will limit my 3d printing space dramatically. At worst, I would just use the direct drive but I still need it for an e3d (how would I do that?). Thanks again for all your help.
That would be great! I’ve been looking as well, but lots of them have the belt tensioner in the middle. Mine would have to be on the back of the carriage.
