I’m a hobbyist 3D Printer and and Tinkerer - I’m mostly offering the Hub here as a challenge for myself.
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Try using something different than replicatorG, it’s a bit outdated and there are a lot of better Slicers around now. Since the CTC is Basically a Makerbot Clone you can try Makerware. It’s very userfriendly for beginners.
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1. Ideally included - but in reality that normally will not play out well. 2. That would probably depend on the content obviously. But coming from the point that for example colorFabb Filaments are sample sized to around 2-4€/50g I would guess for the 4x50g samples we should look at something betwe…
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I would definitely be interested if there is a possibility for international shipping to germany.
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Can you print with USB attached like with ReplicatorG or any other Software? If so maybe you only acceidentally bumped the Display Cable and it has a bad connection now.
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Seems odd but I guess if it works just leave it at those values then
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The issue is the endstop at the back of the printer, this is not controllable by software. You will need to raise the endstop switch up to move the build platform up in your case. Or use longer screws and springs underneath the printbed so you can adjust it further away from the carrier plate.
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It should probably be X205 or X215 depending on the printbed you have. Most are either 210 or 230mm wide. I don’t know of any that are 300mm wide, which would cause big prints to then print into air on the left side probably.
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The Makerbot clones (which the CTC is one of) are using a home point (0,0,0) at the center of the Build Plate instead of the lower left. Most slicers don’t take care of this. What slicer are you using? For example in Slic3r inside the printer settings you can adjust the Bed shape and you need to se…
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There is probably a connection broken still then.
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Who did replace the thermocouple amps? Because 0°C does sound a lot like either the chip beeing soldered incorrectly, the wrong chip or the thermocouple beeing connected backwards, because he chip needs to actually talk to the µC to have a 0°C reading. If it’s fried it would come up as NA and if the…
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Just Duplicate the Material to the same so you got two blocks of pla. Set different colors for each block and different prices.
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In Germany it’s either wire transfer to your bank account or PayPal
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As I can only print veeeeery slowly with the fine nozzle due to the pressure buildup Deathwing takes a whopping 470h to print, and that’s just the estimate, I guess after Acceleration kicks in it’s closer to 550h
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I’d advise you not to do that, because that would make print times unrealistically high. Be honest, you wouldn’t accept deathwing to be printed on the hub, would you? You should choose the most complex objekt you could think of that you would accept as an order, otherwise you’re skewing the scale po…
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The skin on the wings is veeery thin. Your slicer is probably ignoring it due to the minimal wall thickness. You can choose something different with a lot of wallt too of course, on the other hand, even without wings deathwing is quite complex, just not printable in that case
Slic3r kind of has a … -
Yeah it’s totally easy but it does screw up pricing a lot because the support is rarther special for that. Basically what it boils down to is a print where there are hairs standing out and you comb it into shape with a hair dryer to soften the plastic stands up again, this is a special technique in …
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Well Deathwing is as complex as it gets for me, lots of support, very fine details, lots of it. And a cube is as low as it gets so i guess these are nice extremes yes. Everything else like hairy prints or other special stuff would be stuff to discuss with the customer directly.
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sliced volume, but actually, thinking about it object volume might make more sense as it doesn’t involve the perimeters. In the end using sliced volume and surface does count the perimeters double. And what you’re doing with using object volume and surface area is sort of replicating the sliced volu…
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I would count small marvin as complex, there is very little infill compared to the shells. So you have set the surface price too high and need to set higher ccm and instead lower the surface a bit. On the other Hand I would not select something like Hairy prints or other stuff that has some “special…
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Simple part too cheap -> Set ccm higher, Surface lower Simple part too expensive -> Set ccm lower, Surface higher
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-> This is a point where 3DHubs could really improve a lot, offering you your own model uploads for pricing calculations/estimates in the preview not just different sized Marvin.
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Have you read the linked thread?
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Well what you probably did is press reset more than one time during the update. That basically wiped the bootloader then. But it can be fixed using an usb programmer like usbasp. Those are available quite cheaply on eBay for example see here: Redirecting to Google Groups
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Well there are ways to flash the firmware without the firmware working. Like on a bare chip.
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There is probably a broken pin in the sd card slot. You can try to solder a new one to the board or print via usb. Updating the firmware actually is quite a hassle but should not cause your sd card slot to stop working.
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Did the firmware update correctly or did you get any error messages?
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Temperature on the surface also depends heavily on the thickness of the prinbed. I do have a lot of delta in the temperature too with my printbed because I got a very thick aluminium plate on top of the heated bed to straighten it out and on top of that there is glas with pei for a perfectly level f…
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You probably got a bad heating cartridge. You should replace that with a new one. The printer should get to the 210°C filament losing temperature pretty fast. Like a minute or two. Not five.
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You can manually move the nozzleover the leveling screws by hand.
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Looks like either the filament is dirty and halfway clogs the nozzle regularly or you’re printing too fast and the filament has not enough time to fully melt clogging up the nozzle regularly until it melts again.
