Ctc Dual replacement Board Help

[Kamular]

Hi so long story short i friend the Thermocoupling chip and had them both replaced now im getting a 0.00 reading for temps when I turn on the printer and doesn’t move so im assuming my board is fried!! So im looking for the easiest replacement for the existing board…Im told the mightyboard replacement I can get from BangGood.com will replace the existing one but that i need to follow instructions and cut something in the driver blocks and the LCD needs to be replaced.

http://www.tekworld .com .au/replacing-the-mightyboard-in-a-replicator-wanhaoctc-or-other-cone/

In saying that I’ve read that you can also upgrade the CTC to Ramps 1.4 with a bit of work, In peoples opinions what is the easiest fix for my 3d printer?

[bardiir]

Who did replace the thermocouple amps? Because 0°C does sound a lot like either the chip beeing soldered incorrectly, the wrong chip or the thermocouple beeing connected backwards, because he chip needs to actually talk to the µC to have a 0°C reading. If it’s fried it would come up as NA and if the thermocouple would be not connected at all it would come up as NC.

You can try heating the hotend with the preheat setting and see if the temperature changes, if the thermocouple is connected backwards it will move towards negative values then. If it doesn’t move then there is probably the wrong chip or some issue with the chip itself.

I would guess your best bet is getting a replacement board from the CTC support. You can skype them at ammjill - they have been pretty helpful in getting spare parts to me in the past.

Upgrading to RAMPS has one major issue - the printer currently is 24V and RAMPS boards are usually 12V based.

So you would need to replace all 24V components for this to work (alongside the board and it’s components):

Power Supply

Heater for the Hotend

Heater for the Printbed

All Fans

Which is most of the electric components of the printer and in my opinion not worth the trouble, I would in that case rather get another printer that is 12V based and sell of the CTC.

[jjpython]

If your replacing the board the gt2560 used in the ctc i3 clone printer runs at either 12v or 24v

[jjpython]

If your replacing the board the gt2560 used in the ctc i3 clone printer runs at either 12v or 24v

[Suggy]

You did use the correct thermocouples? And not thrmsisters

[Kamular]

ok sounds like ill have to investigate further then my Uncle replaced the chips ill show you pics of the before that he cleaned up ready for it to be soldered and take a fresh picture tomorrow like i said at preheat of 205.c it shows up at 0 degrees not the NA it did previously

[Kamular]

As you can see it took out what looks like a resistor and my Uncle has done his best to repair it ill take a fresh picture tomorrow in the daylight.

[bardiir]

There is probably a connection broken still then.

[Suggy]

There’s more than a resistor blown. Have you tryed preheating just 1 hot end at a time and see if one still works?