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  • I got mine way back, just after the V1 first came out, and while I never had any serious problems with it, I did perform a few upgrades that greatly increased the reliability and accuracy of the machine: First, get some way to drive it over USB - Octoprint is an amazing choice if you want this to b…

  • The stock system is capable of excellent resolution and speed, you just need to calibrate and tune it. If it’s not working, either you’re calibrating it wrong, or something is broken and you should get a warranty replacement.

  • This can also happen if you are overextruding too much. Check your filament diameter with good calipers, and check the extrusion multiplier setting in your slicer as well.

  • Because the PEI works great on its own for basically everything, but you need some kind of solid substrate for the PEI since it’s just a thin, flexible sheet. You can adhere it directly to the bed, but there’s a lot of convenience in being able to remove the build plate, and glass is the most logica…

  • -EDIT: I had no idea these things come with Build-Tak now. It used to just be this giant metallic sticker at the top of the bed. Probably better to remove the Build-Tak first, but the rest of your plan is spot-on - As far as the sticker thing, just put the gino pads on right over it, it’s no big de…

  • If it looks centered in the slicer, then your print bed size is not defined correctly - it is set too small.

  • The major items have been mentioned, but I’ll summarize with some commentary: 1) Bed leveling: home the z axis, unlock your steppers, and move the print head by hand around the bed and adjust the level at each corner until a pice of typing paper fits with a little bit of resistance at each corner. I…

  • Others have pointed out that it is missing steps, but I’ll explain a little further: The machine depends on the movement of the print head being predictable and always “successful”, since there is no closed-loop control on steppers. If the belt slips on the pulley, the pulley slips on the shaft, or…

  • Do a full read/write test on your card - you may have faulty media. If in doubt, buy a real name-brand card from a reputable retailer and use that - there are a lot of fake and poor quality SD cards out there, unfortunately.

  • The i3 is very finicky with S3D because of the startup timeout. I fixed mine by disabling the auto-reset jumper, but TBH, it’s more reliable to just put it on the SD card, so that’s what I do for long prints, and I think it’s more convenient to use Octoprint on my RasPi for everything else, so I jus…

  • Google Translate yields accurate and usable instructions. It basically walks you through a PID auto tune and shows you how to get your machine’s PID parameters.

  • Mine does tend to want to run hot even with the all-metal hotend - I blame a flaky thermocouple. As for the temp variance, you’ll get waaay more consistent temps if you switch to PID and tune it properly.

  • You might be overextruding. Check your filament diameter and slicer settings for extrusion multiplier. Try doing a 100% infill 20mm test cube and see if the z dimension comes out flat or convex. If it’s convex, turn the extrusion multiplier down. Also check your Z-couplers for play and ensure that …

  • It looks like you might need to tweak the flow rate and starting height for the initial layer to correct the problem with the bottom. It’s tough to tell if that overhang is really as bad as I think it might be, but it would likely benefit from better cooling. The stock PLA cooler is only good for ve…

  • Two possibilities: If you are using glass on the bed, you have to move the Z endstop switch up. The later models have a second hole that makes this very easy - just unscrew it, move it up, and replace the screws. Assuming your endstop is set up correctly, this can also happen if the extruder brack…

  • I have been through 3 or 4 different ones now, and this is the best one I have used so far: You can get the 50mm blower for a couple bucks on Amazon or eBay. Printing can be tricky if you don’t have excellent bed adhesion. My first print fell over about 75% of the way through, but adding supports…