DUDE YOU NEED TO LISTEN TO EVERYTHING I AM GOING TO POST AND SERIOUSLY IF IT DOESN’T WORK CALL ME: 0424368356 IF IT DOES FEEL FREE TO SEND ME A THUMBS UP WHATEVER. BUT LISTEN. LIST OF THINGS TO DO:
1. Turn on the printer and set the temperature to 220 for the extruder.
2. Raise the z height to half way up the full height (18cm) raise to half way 9cm or so.
3. Let all the plastic melt out of the tip and keep wiping away with a tile grout brush or a metal brush whatever you fancy.
4. After there is no more plastic melting out, then go and heat up the print bed to 60 degrees.
5. home all.
6. go to quick settings and disable stepper.
7. now forget about getting a piece of paper or getting a business card or blah blah, here’s what works for me.
8. move the extruder head around as many places as you can and adjust so you can barely see a gap
9. make sure your head is level to the plate and move around so it looks evenly gapped around the whole heat bed.
10. AFTER LEVELLING COMPLETE. - LEAVE THE THING ON, OR IF YOU DONT WANT TO LEAVE IT ON AND WANT TO SLICE SOMETHING FIRST THEN BEFORE PRINTING DO STEPS 1 - 4
11. DOWNLOAD mattercontrol, free software a bit funny to get around but is the best for slicing IMO and I’ve used every slicer, Kisslicer, Slicer, Cura, Simplify 3d, the crappy davinci one, believe me just download mattercontrol and learn how to use it.
12. For the printer select custom setup or blah blah and go through and make sure you setup so your printer is 180*180*180 make sure you setup the firmware as reprap and the bed center as 100,100
13. always print a skirt and a raft and print the raft slow, 15, 20 something like that.
ALWAYS.
14. print speed make it slow for perimeter, make it faster for infill and select perimeter first on the settings, by fast i mean 30 max, by slow i mean like 20 or 25.
15. support print @ 20 and print lines.
16. first layer height leave it at 0.2
17. if you want good quality leave it at 0.1 or change to 0.2
18. always slice to gcode export to gcode on matter control do steps 1-4 and then print from sd card.
19. DUDE, MAKE YOUR LIFE EASY JUST CALL ME OR EMAIL ME AND I’LL SEND YOU THE LINK TO THE SOFTWARE AND MY SETTINGS THAT WORK. CAPISH?
EMAIL: adam_siddiqui@outlook.com
anyone else do the same whenever you like, please don’t spam me that’s all.
Hi guys been having fun with this printer I have printed a couple of things and now the bloodly thing is skips or jumps up a level or two and justs moves around if was still printing but not turning any filiment could any one please give me any idea on why this is happening . The model is wanhao duplcator i3 and big thanks to eeveryone who has commented and the guy who sent me that video link to help set the thing up
The heater block/ nozzle could be clogged. clogged or a broken filament is stuck in the PTFE tubing inside the heater block. The best way to fix this is, turn on the extruder temp to 210, then carefully unscrew the fan, disconnect the extruder and the fan so that you have access to the heater block. Use a long filament or a 1.5mm Allen key that came with the i3 should do the magic. Use it to push from top of the heater block while its at 210 degrees. This will make unclog the passage. Then mount back the extruder and fan and try printing. It should work.
Cheers for that seems to be working fine at moe the one thing that had me concerned was that the printer had jumped up on x axis and was moving round like it was still printing and the little fan on the just behind the exetruder has stoped working what has caused this
what do you think could of done this .
Sounds like your printer is trying to do cold extrusion. Did you check the extruder temperature when this happens? Check your thermistor if it’s reporting correct readings.
It seems to fine now just keeping a eye on it now I one more question for you what dose configuations do and what is eeprom do just curious thats all
Configuration is how your WanHao is programmed to work with all the parameters. When you change the config, sometimes you need to store it on the rom so that the next time you boot the printer, your custom settings remain how you configured it. This is when you need to save those changes to eeprom
I thought I would describe my own experience with my Wanhao Duplicator i3.
I was having a terrible time getting any kind of reliability with my printer and placed it aside under a sheet for 2 months while I was distracted with other things. Its was by coincidence I saw a post on a website (Im sorry I can’t remember which) about an accident that a printer used to his advantage. He used BLUE Painters tape to fix his print to the bed but was having trouble with the print sliding off the tape. He accidentally dropped ACETONE onto the blue tape, wiped it off and discovered the best adhering solution.
I decided to fire-up my printer again. I have used the glass front from an IKEA picture frame (225 x 225mm) as a build plate, four standard black clips with specially made clip inserts to keep the clips horizontal on the top side of the plate and now have 100% reliability. I ALWAYS use a raft simply because the raft sticks like a bastard to the blue tape but the model can be easily removed and the raft then can be pulled off.
The printer now requires some modification to stop the harmonic vibration (search for the braces on Thingiverse) but its VERY reliable.
I hope this helps.