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Depending on the ABS you have, you will likely need a pretty hot print bed. I have an active cooling fan and like to keep the build chamber as hot as I can get it (closing up all the external holes, acrylic top on, even a towel on top of the acrylic top). Last time I checked it was hovering around 48-52c ambient temp.

For my ABS prints, with an active cooling fan, I generally do 235-240c for a nozzle temp, and 102c for the build plate.

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I agree generally with those settings. 100deg bed and 245 on the stock MK10 nozzle. No cooling fan on unless it drops below a certain print speed or for bridging. (Because of the way the stock MK10 is designed, you need 10deg hotter then the highest print temp and you need the highest print temp to run @ 60mm/s print rate). Basically the MK10 really only heats the plastic at the very tip; the teflon tube insulates it from major heating until the tip. So with such a small “hot zone” you need to be at the max plastic temp + 10deg to print well. Once you understand that the MK10 head works great. The benefit of this is you can retract the plastic and stop it from “oozing” so you can print with the other “dual” extruder without having the first get messy not printing.