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Jan 2017
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Jan 2017
Jan 2017
DronePilot
Jan '17

Useful things ha that’s good ! I have seen quite a bit of fantasy character prints etc etc… my interest is mostly functional parts and pieces that I or other people might need.

I installed the duct, put on a reel of PLA, installed the software as suggested in the manual and fired it up for the first time this evening. I wasn’t really sure about this part of it because I didn’t plan to connect it to the USB on the pc. I just wanted to get the basic parameters set and create a file on the SD card which seemed to work ok. I ran a time lapse of the second print since I was not prepared for the first. Stock everything at this point. Will get mirror glass and already have a new hot end pair with nozzles on the way.

Looking forward to trying some PVA supports and some of my own models.

This is what I ended up with.

https://youtu.be/0k-lMmB5xkg 2

Geeez there’s a lot to learn and I’m looking forward to it. Will pick up a copy of Simplify tomorrow…

I did see the post about the strain relief component and thanks for sharing that! Tired puppy now and done for the night.

vernonm3
Jan '17

AHH, That’s what the little black elbow is for!

I attached that to the fan tonight. Running another part right now.

I am attaching my first few parts.

The first pic is a progression. Top left is the first print. Bad. The bottom left is the 4th print. I tried painters tape since I was having a really hard time getting parts off the bed. Doesn’t work very well with the heated bed at 100C!!! It also wasn’t right size wise.

The next print to the right is after I bought Simplify3D and found all the parameters for bed temp, raft layers, etc. It popped off pretty easy and fits. These were the spool adapters.

The last print bottom right is the glass bed clamps. They turned out pretty good except for the drooping.

The engine block I printed on fast, .2mm layers, 60C bed and 205C nozzle. It’s ok but the drooping is bad. I printed this before the glass clamps so I thought the clamps would be ok.

The FU hand pics show the better quality of a smaller layer level, better temp control, and supports.

The main questions I have now that I learned a bit about temps feeds and supports is

1: Why would the finger have such a different texture than the bottom? (granted, this was before I put the duct on the fan)

2: What could I change to make the clamps without adding supports? Or is that not possible since it is a 90 degree overhang.

3: What do you use to get the supports off? Some snap off, but the ones inside the palm of the hand look like a problem. I do have a few dremel tools and various bits but when I tried some they grab and dig in.

I am printing a desktop cell phone stand and it is having some other oddities like blobs and strings so when it’s done I will post a pic of that also.
first_6_prints_small.jpg glass_bed_clamp_w_droop_small.jpg 1st_ls3_block_small.jpg 1st_ls3_block_steps_droops_small.jpg fu_pendant_good_and_bad_steps_small.jpg fu_pendant_supports_small.jpg

vernonm3
Jan '17

Good tips.

I started setting up different profiles for different processes so this will help.

I set support layers for every two layers now.

How do I change the pattern?

I see a box “support infill angles”, is this what you are talking about?

vernonm3
Jan '17

Did you print a Z limit switch shim?

I would like to be able to remove the glass plates easy but I am not sure what I need to change to keep the nozzles from hitting the clips. When I home the machine it would certainly hit the back right clip.

DronePilot
Jan '17

Would not have believed it if I had not printed it myself, but here’s the strain relief part printed from the file shared by dmyers7.

What I mean is this was only my 3rd print and first real part from the machine. The first two were the little calibration cube…

I Purchased and installed the Simplify3D program late last night and after a few minutes looking things over I decided what the heck lets try one in the PLA filament that is loaded already.

I wish I had recorded a video. I watched till about 30% then headed to bed. Later I was up and saw it had finished, taking about 1:20 or so I don’t remember exactly. I peeled it up and started removing the supports structure. I couldn’t stop and put it down. My wife saw it this morning before I was up. Even she was impressed!

I almost aborted the print about 20% into it realizing I had not added in any supports. I did have supports turned on so that’s what saved my a$$ on this one I think. While it was printing I went back to the pc and started playing with the manual supports. Ok this is awesome and I see how it works now. I’m somewhat familiar with MasterCAM CNC and Cut2D along with many other programs over the years.

It takes a lot to impress me most days and I’m a stickler for quality in general. I almost printed a “copy” just because it is so cool and came out so well but the old man had to get back in bed for another hour or two and get through the Friday.

Nice model dmyers7 and thanks for sharing! I did join the thingiverse but not really all familiar with the proper process for credits etc. I was in a hurry to get to it. I’ll jump back in with comments once I get the piece installed.

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vernonm3
Jan '17

DronePilot, that looks really nice!

How do you like Simplify3D? I also have used a few cnc programs, Mcam6 though X11, NX, solidworks (a little bit) so simplify3d felt more natural to me.

Can you tell me what settings you used to print this or send me your factory file?

I have been able to get a good finish now but the raft settings I found to work well for part removal leave an unsavory finish on the bottom.

Will you upload a picture of it installed and update us on how this works out for you?

Have you tried ABS yet? I have a spool of glow in the dark ABS I want to try but I’m curious is I need to change anything else besides putting the cover and door back on and adjusting temps.

vernonm3
Jan '17

I would be interested too! I have been into RC for 25 years. I raced an RC10 and a JRX-Pro for a while when I was a teenager and have been looking into FPV quads for a while now. I just haven’t jumped in yet because it seems like you can either buy a crappy chinese toy or you have to spend a mortgage payment on a decent one.

If there’s a way to PM or send you my email discreet so it’s not online let me know.

Thanks!

DronePilot
Jan '17

Thanks vernonm3 and dmyers7.

It’s a good model for one, and the program helps make it easier without a doubt. I am at the office today so don’t have any of it in front of me right now. I think I left everything pretty much stock per the machine type during the installation, which is the ps 3d pro (2).

I love the program so far even though not used it in much real detail.

Definitely will shoot a pic or two installed. It will be easier to see vs the black that is there now.

Nada on the ABS. So far the PLA is all I have installed. So the question is, will I try the PVA for dissolvable supports next using the second reel or toss the ABS on and try something with that. Kind of a busy weekend but I’ll be doing something with it I’m sure!

vernonm3
Jan '17

Thanks joe.

I have another question.

I have my 1/4 inch glass plate ready, and am printing clips to hold the corners down, but I am not sure what I need to do to keep the machine from crashing into the clamps.

I attached the file for the clamps I am printing.

I do understand the spacer for the z limit switch once the plate is on, or adjusting the thumb screws down for the plate, but since it homes to the back right corner how do I keep it from hitting the clamps? They are taller than the plate.

Thanks,
creator_corners_v2_compact.stl 1 (273 KB)

eckerj
Jan '17

Hello,

Yeah, I went with a different set of corners. These aren’t meant to grip the top of the glass, but be flush with the top surface, so the nozzle doesn’t crash into it :slight_smile:

It would be best to print them in ABS, since it holds up to fairly high temps (I’m over a year now on my ABS printed corners and all I need to do now and then is tighten them down).

They might need a bit of filing/cutting of the slots for the screws, but once done, they should work a charm :slight_smile:

-Joe
powerspec_corners.stl 1 (37.6 KB)

vernonm3
Jan '17

Ok awesome. I will try the file you uploaded. What settings should I change for abs besides temps? I’ve only printed with pla so far.

eckerj
Jan '17

Depending on the ABS you have, you will likely need a pretty hot print bed. I have an active cooling fan and like to keep the build chamber as hot as I can get it (closing up all the external holes, acrylic top on, even a towel on top of the acrylic top). Last time I checked it was hovering around 48-52c ambient temp.

For my ABS prints, with an active cooling fan, I generally do 235-240c for a nozzle temp, and 102c for the build plate.

dmyers7
Jan '17

I agree generally with those settings. 100deg bed and 245 on the stock MK10 nozzle. No cooling fan on unless it drops below a certain print speed or for bridging. (Because of the way the stock MK10 is designed, you need 10deg hotter then the highest print temp and you need the highest print temp to run @ 60mm/s print rate). Basically the MK10 really only heats the plastic at the very tip; the teflon tube insulates it from major heating until the tip. So with such a small “hot zone” you need to be at the max plastic temp + 10deg to print well. Once you understand that the MK10 head works great. The benefit of this is you can retract the plastic and stop it from “oozing” so you can print with the other “dual” extruder without having the first get messy not printing.