Osmo Mobile (handheld gimbal) is the piece of equipment and uses your cell phone. Easy as pie and you can also do hyper lapse. I have some examples on my YT page.
Ultimately I want to print other materials that are more abrasive to the nozzles. So now I have spares but probably won’t install them anytime soon since I have a lot to learn with PLA, ABS and PVA before trying anything else.
Leveling the bed was somewhat consuming with the manual method yes but I must be fairly close looking at the printed box.
Interesting progression there. I have the stock bed and covering they provided but I ran the temps way hotter than probably needed. The extruder was set to 220 and the bed to 110. Stuck fine and once a little cool came off fairly easily with a razor blade. Not sure I’d recommend the razor blade thing for everyone you have to be careful. Putty knife worked fine but the razor blade let me remove the piece with the support lattice still attached as seen in the photo end of video.
Single finger salute, nice. I might have to have one of those for my desk.
Oh and I had a look back at the pdf manual and they do mention installing the duct so my bad for missing that one originally.
Thanks! I see the part and grabbed it for my next project once I figure out the new software which I am actually looking forward to. Looks like the guide tubes will stay better supported also. I put a single wrap of tape around mine so they would stay in the hole.
I see you are also into quads, FPV etc. Maybe I can send you one of my little 5V FPV cams as a thank-you for your efforts and contributions here? It’s the same camera I used on all of our micro FPV machines. After 3 years or so I no longer build/sell my micro FPV machines but still have stock on some various parts. Cams, brushless motors, 200mw vtx’s, CL antennas etc.
Bed at 60 for PLA, 65 for PETg, 100 for ABS. The fiver texture (if PLA) is simple because the plastic was not cooled and solidified yet before the next layer was printed; cause things to move and printing like this; hence the need for the cooling fan. This is especial true as you transition into a smaller printed area because the entire layer completes faster and moves to the next layer because there is less to print.
No cooling on ABS.
Support material removal: Hand tools like pliers, picks, small hand drill bits for pockets. Also set Simplify3d to print supports every two layers so they are weaker and easier to brake out. Change the pattern every couple layers also so they don’t fall over on really high support prints (45,45,45,-45,-45,-45)
I would like to be able to remove the glass plates easy but I am not sure what I need to change to keep the nozzles from hitting the clips. When I home the machine it would certainly hit the back right clip.
I agree generally with those settings. 100deg bed and 245 on the stock MK10 nozzle. No cooling fan on unless it drops below a certain print speed or for bridging. (Because of the way the stock MK10 is designed, you need 10deg hotter then the highest print temp and you need the highest print temp to run @ 60mm/s print rate). Basically the MK10 really only heats the plastic at the very tip; the teflon tube insulates it from major heating until the tip. So with such a small “hot zone” you need to be at the max plastic temp + 10deg to print well. Once you understand that the MK10 head works great. The benefit of this is you can retract the plastic and stop it from “oozing” so you can print with the other “dual” extruder without having the first get messy not printing.
