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Osmo Mobile (handheld gimbal) is the piece of equipment and uses your cell phone. Easy as pie and you can also do hyper lapse. I have some examples on my YT page.
Ultimately I want to print other materials that are more abrasive to the nozzles. So now I have spares but probably won’t install them anytime soon since I have a lot to learn with PLA, ABS and PVA before trying anything else.
Leveling the bed was somewhat consuming with the manual method yes but I must be fairly close looking at the printed box.
Interesting progression there. I have the stock bed and covering they provided but I ran the temps way hotter than probably needed. The extruder was set to 220 and the bed to 110. Stuck fine and once a little cool came off fairly easily with a razor blade. Not sure I’d recommend the razor blade thing for everyone you have to be careful. Putty knife worked fine but the razor blade let me remove the piece with the support lattice still attached as seen in the photo end of video.
Single finger salute, nice. I might have to have one of those for my desk.
Oh and I had a look back at the pdf manual and they do mention installing the duct so my bad for missing that one originally.
Thanks! I see the part and grabbed it for my next project once I figure out the new software which I am actually looking forward to. Looks like the guide tubes will stay better supported also. I put a single wrap of tape around mine so they would stay in the hole.
I see you are also into quads, FPV etc. Maybe I can send you one of my little 5V FPV cams as a thank-you for your efforts and contributions here? It’s the same camera I used on all of our micro FPV machines. After 3 years or so I no longer build/sell my micro FPV machines but still have stock on some various parts. Cams, brushless motors, 200mw vtx’s, CL antennas etc.
Let me know.
DB
Bed at 60 for PLA, 65 for PETg, 100 for ABS. The fiver texture (if PLA) is simple because the plastic was not cooled and solidified yet before the next layer was printed; cause things to move and printing like this; hence the need for the cooling fan. This is especial true as you transition into a smaller printed area because the entire layer completes faster and moves to the next layer because there is less to print.
No cooling on ABS.
Support material removal: Hand tools like pliers, picks, small hand drill bits for pockets. Also set Simplify3d to print supports every two layers so they are weaker and easier to brake out. Change the pattern every couple layers also so they don’t fall over on really high support prints (45,45,45,-45,-45,-45)
Love flying FPV and quads. Let’s taggup. IM me through thingiverse and we will exchange information. Thanks
Would not have believed it if I had not printed it myself, but here’s the strain relief part printed from the file shared by dmyers7.
What I mean is this was only my 3rd print and first real part from the machine. The first two were the little calibration cube…
I Purchased and installed the Simplify3D program late last night and after a few minutes looking things over I decided what the heck lets try one in the PLA filament that is loaded already.
I wish I had recorded a video. I watched till about 30% then headed to bed. Later I was up and saw it had finished, taking about 1:20 or so I don’t remember exactly. I peeled it up and started removing the supports structure. I couldn’t stop and put it down. My wife saw it this morning before I was up. Even she was impressed!
I almost aborted the print about 20% into it realizing I had not added in any supports. I did have supports turned on so that’s what saved my a$$ on this one I think. While it was printing I went back to the pc and started playing with the manual supports. Ok this is awesome and I see how it works now. I’m somewhat familiar with MasterCAM CNC and Cut2D along with many other programs over the years.
It takes a lot to impress me most days and I’m a stickler for quality in general. I almost printed a “copy” just because it is so cool and came out so well but the old man had to get back in bed for another hour or two and get through the Friday.
Nice model dmyers7 and thanks for sharing! I did join the thingiverse but not really all familiar with the proper process for credits etc. I was in a hurry to get to it. I’ll jump back in with comments once I get the piece installed.
Looks awesome, nice work.
DronePilot, that looks really nice!
How do you like Simplify3D? I also have used a few cnc programs, Mcam6 though X11, NX, solidworks (a little bit) so simplify3d felt more natural to me.
Can you tell me what settings you used to print this or send me your factory file?
I have been able to get a good finish now but the raft settings I found to work well for part removal leave an unsavory finish on the bottom.
Will you upload a picture of it installed and update us on how this works out for you?
Have you tried ABS yet? I have a spool of glow in the dark ABS I want to try but I’m curious is I need to change anything else besides putting the cover and door back on and adjusting temps.
I would be interested too! I have been into RC for 25 years. I raced an RC10 and a JRX-Pro for a while when I was a teenager and have been looking into FPV quads for a while now. I just haven’t jumped in yet because it seems like you can either buy a crappy chinese toy or you have to spend a mortgage payment on a decent one.
If there’s a way to PM or send you my email discreet so it’s not online let me know.
Thanks!
Thanks vernonm3 and dmyers7.
It’s a good model for one, and the program helps make it easier without a doubt. I am at the office today so don’t have any of it in front of me right now. I think I left everything pretty much stock per the machine type during the installation, which is the ps 3d pro (2).
I love the program so far even though not used it in much real detail.
Definitely will shoot a pic or two installed. It will be easier to see vs the black that is there now.
Nada on the ABS. So far the PLA is all I have installed. So the question is, will I try the PVA for dissolvable supports next using the second reel or toss the ABS on and try something with that. Kind of a busy weekend but I’ll be doing something with it I’m sure!
Thanks joe.
I have another question.
I have my 1/4 inch glass plate ready, and am printing clips to hold the corners down, but I am not sure what I need to do to keep the machine from crashing into the clamps.
I attached the file for the clamps I am printing.
I do understand the spacer for the z limit switch once the plate is on, or adjusting the thumb screws down for the plate, but since it homes to the back right corner how do I keep it from hitting the clamps? They are taller than the plate.
Thanks,
creator_corners_v2_compact.stl 1 (273 KB)
Hello,
Yeah, I went with a different set of corners. These aren’t meant to grip the top of the glass, but be flush with the top surface, so the nozzle doesn’t crash into it 
It would be best to print them in ABS, since it holds up to fairly high temps (I’m over a year now on my ABS printed corners and all I need to do now and then is tighten them down).
They might need a bit of filing/cutting of the slots for the screws, but once done, they should work a charm
-Joe
powerspec_corners.stl 1 (37.6 KB)
Ok awesome. I will try the file you uploaded. What settings should I change for abs besides temps? I’ve only printed with pla so far.
Depending on the ABS you have, you will likely need a pretty hot print bed. I have an active cooling fan and like to keep the build chamber as hot as I can get it (closing up all the external holes, acrylic top on, even a towel on top of the acrylic top). Last time I checked it was hovering around 48-52c ambient temp.
For my ABS prints, with an active cooling fan, I generally do 235-240c for a nozzle temp, and 102c for the build plate.
I agree generally with those settings. 100deg bed and 245 on the stock MK10 nozzle. No cooling fan on unless it drops below a certain print speed or for bridging. (Because of the way the stock MK10 is designed, you need 10deg hotter then the highest print temp and you need the highest print temp to run @ 60mm/s print rate). Basically the MK10 really only heats the plastic at the very tip; the teflon tube insulates it from major heating until the tip. So with such a small “hot zone” you need to be at the max plastic temp + 10deg to print well. Once you understand that the MK10 head works great. The benefit of this is you can retract the plastic and stop it from “oozing” so you can print with the other “dual” extruder without having the first get messy not printing.