Powerspec 3D Pro 2 spool adapters?

dmyers7 · 2017-01-19T03:27:40.000Z

Common Dual Extruder Wire Loom Strain Relief by dmyers7

This part replaces the upper black plastic deck that sits above the extruders on a common MK10 Dual Extrusion printhead design found on FlashForge, PowerSpec, Wanhao, .... The purpose: To provide a strain relief for the wire loom coming out off the...

DronePilot · 2017-01-19T06:43:25.000Z

Useful things ha that’s good ! I have seen quite a bit of fantasy character prints etc etc… my interest is mostly functional parts and pieces that I or other people might need.

I installed the duct, put on a reel of PLA, installed the software as suggested in the manual and fired it up for the first time this evening. I wasn’t really sure about this part of it because I didn’t plan to connect it to the USB on the pc. I just wanted to get the basic parameters set and create a file on the SD card which seemed to work ok. I ran a time lapse of the second print since I was not prepared for the first. Stock everything at this point. Will get mirror glass and already have a new hot end pair with nozzles on the way.

Looking forward to trying some PVA supports and some of my own models.

This is what I ended up with.

https://youtu.be/0k-lMmB5xkg

Geeez there’s a lot to learn and I’m looking forward to it. Will pick up a copy of Simplify tomorrow…

I did see the post about the strain relief component and thanks for sharing that! Tired puppy now and done for the night.

vernonm3 · 2017-01-19T07:37:04.000Z

AHH, That’s what the little black elbow is for!

I attached that to the fan tonight. Running another part right now.

I am attaching my first few parts.

The first pic is a progression. Top left is the first print. Bad. The bottom left is the 4th print. I tried painters tape since I was having a really hard time getting parts off the bed. Doesn’t work very well with the heated bed at 100C!!! It also wasn’t right size wise.

The next print to the right is after I bought Simplify3D and found all the parameters for bed temp, raft layers, etc. It popped off pretty easy and fits. These were the spool adapters.

The last print bottom right is the glass bed clamps. They turned out pretty good except for the drooping.

The engine block I printed on fast, .2mm layers, 60C bed and 205C nozzle. It’s ok but the drooping is bad. I printed this before the glass clamps so I thought the clamps would be ok.

The FU hand pics show the better quality of a smaller layer level, better temp control, and supports.

The main questions I have now that I learned a bit about temps feeds and supports is

1: Why would the finger have such a different texture than the bottom? (granted, this was before I put the duct on the fan)

2: What could I change to make the clamps without adding supports? Or is that not possible since it is a 90 degree overhang.

3: What do you use to get the supports off? Some snap off, but the ones inside the palm of the hand look like a problem. I do have a few dremel tools and various bits but when I tried some they grab and dig in.

I am printing a desktop cell phone stand and it is having some other oddities like blobs and strings so when it’s done I will post a pic of that also.

vernonm3 · 2017-01-19T08:01:18.000Z

What made you decide to order a new hot end pair with nozzles already?

I read somewhere about swiss nozzles but I’m curious about your thought process.

Simplify3D is somewhat pricey but it made such a difference in going from “what do I do now” to wow, I am actually glad I bought this thing!

I did hook up the USB cable. I don’t run programs that way but it’s easier to make changes, like LED colors, leveling the bed, moving the machine etc VS using the built in control panel.

I trust running programs from the SD card way more.

One thing I did learn since SD cards are so cheap is 32g seems to be the max for FAT32 formats. I tried a 64G I had laying around but with windows 7 it formats with eFAT, which the machine can’t read.

vernonm3 · 2017-01-19T09:25:50.000Z

I must ask, DronePilot, how did you do that time lapse?

DronePilot · 2017-01-19T14:56:24.000Z

Osmo Mobile (handheld gimbal) is the piece of equipment and uses your cell phone. Easy as pie and you can also do hyper lapse. I have some examples on my YT page.

DronePilot · 2017-01-19T15:02:09.000Z

Ultimately I want to print other materials that are more abrasive to the nozzles. So now I have spares but probably won’t install them anytime soon since I have a lot to learn with PLA, ABS and PVA before trying anything else.

Leveling the bed was somewhat consuming with the manual method yes but I must be fairly close looking at the printed box.

DronePilot · 2017-01-19T15:15:30.000Z

Interesting progression there. I have the stock bed and covering they provided but I ran the temps way hotter than probably needed. The extruder was set to 220 and the bed to 110. Stuck fine and once a little cool came off fairly easily with a razor blade. Not sure I’d recommend the razor blade thing for everyone you have to be careful. Putty knife worked fine but the razor blade let me remove the piece with the support lattice still attached as seen in the photo end of video.

Single finger salute, nice. I might have to have one of those for my desk.

Oh and I had a look back at the pdf manual and they do mention installing the duct so my bad for missing that one originally.

DronePilot · 2017-01-19T16:12:18.000Z

Thanks! I see the part and grabbed it for my next project once I figure out the new software which I am actually looking forward to. Looks like the guide tubes will stay better supported also. I put a single wrap of tape around mine so they would stay in the hole.

I see you are also into quads, FPV etc. Maybe I can send you one of my little 5V FPV cams as a thank-you for your efforts and contributions here? It’s the same camera I used on all of our micro FPV machines. After 3 years or so I no longer build/sell my micro FPV machines but still have stock on some various parts. Cams, brushless motors, 200mw vtx’s, CL antennas etc.

Let me know.

DB

dmyers7 · 2017-01-19T17:57:01.000Z

Bed at 60 for PLA, 65 for PETg, 100 for ABS. The fiver texture (if PLA) is simple because the plastic was not cooled and solidified yet before the next layer was printed; cause things to move and printing like this; hence the need for the cooling fan. This is especial true as you transition into a smaller printed area because the entire layer completes faster and moves to the next layer because there is less to print.

No cooling on ABS.

Support material removal: Hand tools like pliers, picks, small hand drill bits for pockets. Also set Simplify3d to print supports every two layers so they are weaker and easier to brake out. Change the pattern every couple layers also so they don’t fall over on really high support prints (45,45,45,-45,-45,-45)

dmyers7 · 2017-01-19T19:10:15.000Z

Love flying FPV and quads. Let’s taggup. IM me through thingiverse and we will exchange information. Thanks

vernonm3 · 2017-01-19T20:29:20.000Z

Good tips.

I started setting up different profiles for different processes so this will help.

I set support layers for every two layers now.

How do I change the pattern?

I see a box “support infill angles”, is this what you are talking about?

vernonm3 · 2017-01-19T20:33:58.000Z

Did you print a Z limit switch shim?

I would like to be able to remove the glass plates easy but I am not sure what I need to change to keep the nozzles from hitting the clips. When I home the machine it would certainly hit the back right clip.

dmyers7 · 2017-01-19T23:01:28.000Z

Yup, "support infill angles "

DronePilot · 2017-01-20T14:23:22.000Z

Would not have believed it if I had not printed it myself, but here’s the strain relief part printed from the file shared by dmyers7.

What I mean is this was only my 3rd print and first real part from the machine. The first two were the little calibration cube…

I Purchased and installed the Simplify3D program late last night and after a few minutes looking things over I decided what the heck lets try one in the PLA filament that is loaded already.

I wish I had recorded a video. I watched till about 30% then headed to bed. Later I was up and saw it had finished, taking about 1:20 or so I don’t remember exactly. I peeled it up and started removing the supports structure. I couldn’t stop and put it down. My wife saw it this morning before I was up. Even she was impressed!

I almost aborted the print about 20% into it realizing I had not added in any supports. I did have supports turned on so that’s what saved my a$$ on this one I think. While it was printing I went back to the pc and started playing with the manual supports. Ok this is awesome and I see how it works now. I’m somewhat familiar with MasterCAM CNC and Cut2D along with many other programs over the years.

It takes a lot to impress me most days and I’m a stickler for quality in general. I almost printed a “copy” just because it is so cool and came out so well but the old man had to get back in bed for another hour or two and get through the Friday.

Nice model dmyers7 and thanks for sharing! I did join the thingiverse but not really all familiar with the proper process for credits etc. I was in a hurry to get to it. I’ll jump back in with comments once I get the piece installed.

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dmyers7 · 2017-01-20T14:35:29.000Z

Looks awesome, nice work.

vernonm3 · 2017-01-20T18:58:29.000Z

DronePilot, that looks really nice!

How do you like Simplify3D? I also have used a few cnc programs, Mcam6 though X11, NX, solidworks (a little bit) so simplify3d felt more natural to me.

Can you tell me what settings you used to print this or send me your factory file?

I have been able to get a good finish now but the raft settings I found to work well for part removal leave an unsavory finish on the bottom.

Will you upload a picture of it installed and update us on how this works out for you?

Have you tried ABS yet? I have a spool of glow in the dark ABS I want to try but I’m curious is I need to change anything else besides putting the cover and door back on and adjusting temps.

vernonm3 · 2017-01-20T19:03:06.000Z

I would be interested too! I have been into RC for 25 years. I raced an RC10 and a JRX-Pro for a while when I was a teenager and have been looking into FPV quads for a while now. I just haven’t jumped in yet because it seems like you can either buy a crappy chinese toy or you have to spend a mortgage payment on a decent one.

If there’s a way to PM or send you my email discreet so it’s not online let me know.

Thanks!

DronePilot · 2017-01-20T19:23:27.000Z

Thanks vernonm3 and dmyers7.

It’s a good model for one, and the program helps make it easier without a doubt. I am at the office today so don’t have any of it in front of me right now. I think I left everything pretty much stock per the machine type during the installation, which is the ps 3d pro (2).

I love the program so far even though not used it in much real detail.

Definitely will shoot a pic or two installed. It will be easier to see vs the black that is there now.

Nada on the ABS. So far the PLA is all I have installed. So the question is, will I try the PVA for dissolvable supports next using the second reel or toss the ABS on and try something with that. Kind of a busy weekend but I’ll be doing something with it I’m sure!

vernonm3 · 2017-01-22T03:01:48.000Z

Thanks joe.

I have another question.

I have my 1/4 inch glass plate ready, and am printing clips to hold the corners down, but I am not sure what I need to do to keep the machine from crashing into the clamps.

I attached the file for the clamps I am printing.

I do understand the spacer for the z limit switch once the plate is on, or adjusting the thumb screws down for the plate, but since it homes to the back right corner how do I keep it from hitting the clamps? They are taller than the plate.

Thanks,
creator_corners_v2_compact.stl (273 KB)