Powerspec 3D Pro 2 spool adapters?

[eckerj]

For me, the whole point of going to a glass print bed with printed corners is that the glass is removable after prints. I find that I can put the glass in the freezer to help parts pop off.

It also helps keep the bed level between prints, since you’re not prying/applying pressure to remove parts while it’s on the bed.

YMMV for the Z-shim. I have two of the same PS3DPro printers and they used different springs. On one, the spring would be compressed too much, the other was impossible without a shim.

[DronePilot]

Did you get time to upload your latest file for the strain relief piece? I looked some today at your files but didn’t see anything that seemed related to the PS 3D Pro 2.

I could probably draw one up myself once I get a chance to work with the printer again and get it set up. That won’t be till the weekend the way it’s looking now.

DB

[dmyers7]

I’ll try and get that posted tonight and will provide a link.

[vernonm3]

No worries about HJ the thread! The other questions are actually some I was going to ask.

Like the spare parts that were included, the white tubes, etc.

After a few prints here is where I am at.

Without a doubt Simplify3D is TOTALLY worth it.

I tried ReplicatorG first. It’s ok. Has decent controls for manually controlling the machine. You can change the colors of the LED’s, etc so that’s a cool feature.

Then I tried MakerWare, I didn’t care for that.

I have 15 years experience in CNC machining and tool and die work so when I went to Simplify3D it felt more natural. Offers way more control of the printing process, adding supports, etc. Speeds, layers, everything.

I did order some glass beds for it. I have build fish tanks and reef sumps before and just didn’t want to deal with polishing the edges so they don’t cut me.

On the other hand using simplify3d I was able to adjust the raft size, infill and bed and nozzle temps for the raft so when I printed the glass clips yesterday they popped off WAY easier than any print before. On the stock blue bed.

So far I’ve printed some spool adapters (BTW it does work fine without them and haven’t used them yet.) An LS3 Chevy block, and currently I am printing a pendant. My girlfriend laughed when I printed an engine block and said I thought you were going to print useful things!

Right now the problem I am having is drooping plastic. On the engine block I think I can solve that with supports, but the glass clips had such a minimal overhang I thought they would be ok but they drooped also.

I am going to take some pics today to show you guys and maybe someone can offer some advice.

Thanks! So far I am having a BLAST!!

[dmyers7]

Pics are always good. Make sure your cooling duct is installed. Without supports the Simplify 3d software will provide a move called a bridge. There are settings to adjust the speed, turning the fan on to force the plastic to harden faster as it’s coming out of the tip and extrusion percentage which effectively “stretches” the plastic to keep it pulled tight when set below 100 or 100%. I usually set this to 87% when not using support. Keep in mind the bridging only works on straight line paths. If your overhang curves at all you will need support. In general support and bridging is only used when the critical angle of the overhang exceeds 45deg (I set mine to 50). Hope this helps.

[dmyers7]

Common Dual Extruder Wire Loom Strain Relief by dmyers7

[DronePilot]

Useful things ha that’s good ! I have seen quite a bit of fantasy character prints etc etc… my interest is mostly functional parts and pieces that I or other people might need.

I installed the duct, put on a reel of PLA, installed the software as suggested in the manual and fired it up for the first time this evening. I wasn’t really sure about this part of it because I didn’t plan to connect it to the USB on the pc. I just wanted to get the basic parameters set and create a file on the SD card which seemed to work ok. I ran a time lapse of the second print since I was not prepared for the first. Stock everything at this point. Will get mirror glass and already have a new hot end pair with nozzles on the way.

Looking forward to trying some PVA supports and some of my own models.

This is what I ended up with.

https://youtu.be/0k-lMmB5xkg

Geeez there’s a lot to learn and I’m looking forward to it. Will pick up a copy of Simplify tomorrow…

I did see the post about the strain relief component and thanks for sharing that! Tired puppy now and done for the night.

[vernonm3]

AHH, That’s what the little black elbow is for!

I attached that to the fan tonight. Running another part right now.

I am attaching my first few parts.

The first pic is a progression. Top left is the first print. Bad. The bottom left is the 4th print. I tried painters tape since I was having a really hard time getting parts off the bed. Doesn’t work very well with the heated bed at 100C!!! It also wasn’t right size wise.

The next print to the right is after I bought Simplify3D and found all the parameters for bed temp, raft layers, etc. It popped off pretty easy and fits. These were the spool adapters.

The last print bottom right is the glass bed clamps. They turned out pretty good except for the drooping.

The engine block I printed on fast, .2mm layers, 60C bed and 205C nozzle. It’s ok but the drooping is bad. I printed this before the glass clamps so I thought the clamps would be ok.

The FU hand pics show the better quality of a smaller layer level, better temp control, and supports.

The main questions I have now that I learned a bit about temps feeds and supports is

1: Why would the finger have such a different texture than the bottom? (granted, this was before I put the duct on the fan)

2: What could I change to make the clamps without adding supports? Or is that not possible since it is a 90 degree overhang.

3: What do you use to get the supports off? Some snap off, but the ones inside the palm of the hand look like a problem. I do have a few dremel tools and various bits but when I tried some they grab and dig in.

I am printing a desktop cell phone stand and it is having some other oddities like blobs and strings so when it’s done I will post a pic of that also.

[vernonm3]

What made you decide to order a new hot end pair with nozzles already?

I read somewhere about swiss nozzles but I’m curious about your thought process.

Simplify3D is somewhat pricey but it made such a difference in going from “what do I do now” to wow, I am actually glad I bought this thing!

I did hook up the USB cable. I don’t run programs that way but it’s easier to make changes, like LED colors, leveling the bed, moving the machine etc VS using the built in control panel.

I trust running programs from the SD card way more.

One thing I did learn since SD cards are so cheap is 32g seems to be the max for FAT32 formats. I tried a 64G I had laying around but with windows 7 it formats with eFAT, which the machine can’t read.

[vernonm3]

I must ask, DronePilot, how did you do that time lapse?

[DronePilot]

Osmo Mobile (handheld gimbal) is the piece of equipment and uses your cell phone. Easy as pie and you can also do hyper lapse. I have some examples on my YT page.

[DronePilot]

Ultimately I want to print other materials that are more abrasive to the nozzles. So now I have spares but probably won’t install them anytime soon since I have a lot to learn with PLA, ABS and PVA before trying anything else.

Leveling the bed was somewhat consuming with the manual method yes but I must be fairly close looking at the printed box.

[DronePilot]

Interesting progression there. I have the stock bed and covering they provided but I ran the temps way hotter than probably needed. The extruder was set to 220 and the bed to 110. Stuck fine and once a little cool came off fairly easily with a razor blade. Not sure I’d recommend the razor blade thing for everyone you have to be careful. Putty knife worked fine but the razor blade let me remove the piece with the support lattice still attached as seen in the photo end of video.

Single finger salute, nice. I might have to have one of those for my desk.

Oh and I had a look back at the pdf manual and they do mention installing the duct so my bad for missing that one originally.

[DronePilot]

Thanks! I see the part and grabbed it for my next project once I figure out the new software which I am actually looking forward to. Looks like the guide tubes will stay better supported also. I put a single wrap of tape around mine so they would stay in the hole.

I see you are also into quads, FPV etc. Maybe I can send you one of my little 5V FPV cams as a thank-you for your efforts and contributions here? It’s the same camera I used on all of our micro FPV machines. After 3 years or so I no longer build/sell my micro FPV machines but still have stock on some various parts. Cams, brushless motors, 200mw vtx’s, CL antennas etc.

Let me know.

DB

[dmyers7]

Bed at 60 for PLA, 65 for PETg, 100 for ABS. The fiver texture (if PLA) is simple because the plastic was not cooled and solidified yet before the next layer was printed; cause things to move and printing like this; hence the need for the cooling fan. This is especial true as you transition into a smaller printed area because the entire layer completes faster and moves to the next layer because there is less to print.

No cooling on ABS.

Support material removal: Hand tools like pliers, picks, small hand drill bits for pockets. Also set Simplify3d to print supports every two layers so they are weaker and easier to brake out. Change the pattern every couple layers also so they don’t fall over on really high support prints (45,45,45,-45,-45,-45)

[dmyers7]

Love flying FPV and quads. Let’s taggup. IM me through thingiverse and we will exchange information. Thanks

[vernonm3]

Good tips.

I started setting up different profiles for different processes so this will help.

I set support layers for every two layers now.

How do I change the pattern?

I see a box “support infill angles”, is this what you are talking about?

[vernonm3]

Did you print a Z limit switch shim?

I would like to be able to remove the glass plates easy but I am not sure what I need to change to keep the nozzles from hitting the clips. When I home the machine it would certainly hit the back right clip.

[dmyers7]

Yup, "support infill angles "

[DronePilot]

Would not have believed it if I had not printed it myself, but here’s the strain relief part printed from the file shared by dmyers7.

What I mean is this was only my 3rd print and first real part from the machine. The first two were the little calibration cube…

I Purchased and installed the Simplify3D program late last night and after a few minutes looking things over I decided what the heck lets try one in the PLA filament that is loaded already.

I wish I had recorded a video. I watched till about 30% then headed to bed. Later I was up and saw it had finished, taking about 1:20 or so I don’t remember exactly. I peeled it up and started removing the supports structure. I couldn’t stop and put it down. My wife saw it this morning before I was up. Even she was impressed!

I almost aborted the print about 20% into it realizing I had not added in any supports. I did have supports turned on so that’s what saved my a$$ on this one I think. While it was printing I went back to the pc and started playing with the manual supports. Ok this is awesome and I see how it works now. I’m somewhat familiar with MasterCAM CNC and Cut2D along with many other programs over the years.

It takes a lot to impress me most days and I’m a stickler for quality in general. I almost printed a “copy” just because it is so cool and came out so well but the old man had to get back in bed for another hour or two and get through the Friday.

Nice model dmyers7 and thanks for sharing! I did join the thingiverse but not really all familiar with the proper process for credits etc. I was in a hurry to get to it. I’ll jump back in with comments once I get the piece installed.