I would be interested too! I have been into RC for 25 years. I raced an RC10 and a JRX-Pro for a while when I was a teenager and have been looking into FPV quads for a while now. I just haven’t jumped in yet because it seems like you can either buy a crappy chinese toy or you have to spend a mortgage payment on a decent one.
If there’s a way to PM or send you my email discreet so it’s not online let me know.
It’s a good model for one, and the program helps make it easier without a doubt. I am at the office today so don’t have any of it in front of me right now. I think I left everything pretty much stock per the machine type during the installation, which is the ps 3d pro (2).
I love the program so far even though not used it in much real detail.
Definitely will shoot a pic or two installed. It will be easier to see vs the black that is there now.
Nada on the ABS. So far the PLA is all I have installed. So the question is, will I try the PVA for dissolvable supports next using the second reel or toss the ABS on and try something with that. Kind of a busy weekend but I’ll be doing something with it I’m sure!
I have my 1/4 inch glass plate ready, and am printing clips to hold the corners down, but I am not sure what I need to do to keep the machine from crashing into the clamps.
I attached the file for the clamps I am printing.
I do understand the spacer for the z limit switch once the plate is on, or adjusting the thumb screws down for the plate, but since it homes to the back right corner how do I keep it from hitting the clamps? They are taller than the plate.
Yeah, I went with a different set of corners. These aren’t meant to grip the top of the glass, but be flush with the top surface, so the nozzle doesn’t crash into it
It would be best to print them in ABS, since it holds up to fairly high temps (I’m over a year now on my ABS printed corners and all I need to do now and then is tighten them down).
They might need a bit of filing/cutting of the slots for the screws, but once done, they should work a charm
Depending on the ABS you have, you will likely need a pretty hot print bed. I have an active cooling fan and like to keep the build chamber as hot as I can get it (closing up all the external holes, acrylic top on, even a towel on top of the acrylic top). Last time I checked it was hovering around 48-52c ambient temp.
For my ABS prints, with an active cooling fan, I generally do 235-240c for a nozzle temp, and 102c for the build plate.
I agree generally with those settings. 100deg bed and 245 on the stock MK10 nozzle. No cooling fan on unless it drops below a certain print speed or for bridging. (Because of the way the stock MK10 is designed, you need 10deg hotter then the highest print temp and you need the highest print temp to run @ 60mm/s print rate). Basically the MK10 really only heats the plastic at the very tip; the teflon tube insulates it from major heating until the tip. So with such a small “hot zone” you need to be at the max plastic temp + 10deg to print well. Once you understand that the MK10 head works great. The benefit of this is you can retract the plastic and stop it from “oozing” so you can print with the other “dual” extruder without having the first get messy not printing.
