For me, the whole point of going to a glass print bed with printed corners is that the glass is removable after prints. I find that I can put the glass in the freezer to help parts pop off.
It also helps keep the bed level between prints, since you’re not prying/applying pressure to remove parts while it’s on the bed.
YMMV for the Z-shim. I have two of the same PS3DPro printers and they used different springs. On one, the spring would be compressed too much, the other was impossible without a shim.
What made you decide to order a new hot end pair with nozzles already?
I read somewhere about swiss nozzles but I’m curious about your thought process.
Simplify3D is somewhat pricey but it made such a difference in going from “what do I do now” to wow, I am actually glad I bought this thing!
I did hook up the USB cable. I don’t run programs that way but it’s easier to make changes, like LED colors, leveling the bed, moving the machine etc VS using the built in control panel.
I trust running programs from the SD card way more.
One thing I did learn since SD cards are so cheap is 32g seems to be the max for FAT32 formats. I tried a 64G I had laying around but with windows 7 it formats with eFAT, which the machine can’t read.
Osmo Mobile (handheld gimbal) is the piece of equipment and uses your cell phone. Easy as pie and you can also do hyper lapse. I have some examples on my YT page.
Ultimately I want to print other materials that are more abrasive to the nozzles. So now I have spares but probably won’t install them anytime soon since I have a lot to learn with PLA, ABS and PVA before trying anything else.
Leveling the bed was somewhat consuming with the manual method yes but I must be fairly close looking at the printed box.
Interesting progression there. I have the stock bed and covering they provided but I ran the temps way hotter than probably needed. The extruder was set to 220 and the bed to 110. Stuck fine and once a little cool came off fairly easily with a razor blade. Not sure I’d recommend the razor blade thing for everyone you have to be careful. Putty knife worked fine but the razor blade let me remove the piece with the support lattice still attached as seen in the photo end of video.
Single finger salute, nice. I might have to have one of those for my desk.
Oh and I had a look back at the pdf manual and they do mention installing the duct so my bad for missing that one originally.
Thanks! I see the part and grabbed it for my next project once I figure out the new software which I am actually looking forward to. Looks like the guide tubes will stay better supported also. I put a single wrap of tape around mine so they would stay in the hole.
I see you are also into quads, FPV etc. Maybe I can send you one of my little 5V FPV cams as a thank-you for your efforts and contributions here? It’s the same camera I used on all of our micro FPV machines. After 3 years or so I no longer build/sell my micro FPV machines but still have stock on some various parts. Cams, brushless motors, 200mw vtx’s, CL antennas etc.
Let me know.
DB
Bed at 60 for PLA, 65 for PETg, 100 for ABS. The fiver texture (if PLA) is simple because the plastic was not cooled and solidified yet before the next layer was printed; cause things to move and printing like this; hence the need for the cooling fan. This is especial true as you transition into a smaller printed area because the entire layer completes faster and moves to the next layer because there is less to print.
No cooling on ABS.
Support material removal: Hand tools like pliers, picks, small hand drill bits for pockets. Also set Simplify3d to print supports every two layers so they are weaker and easier to brake out. Change the pattern every couple layers also so they don’t fall over on really high support prints (45,45,45,-45,-45,-45)
Love flying FPV and quads. Let’s taggup. IM me through thingiverse and we will exchange information. Thanks
