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Jul 2016
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Nov 2016
Jan 2018
andygreyrider
Oct '16

Hi Barry,

All the balony about the lid switch is total carp.

You can disable it in the software settings. So, none of this depressing the lid switch.

I need everyone’s story of problems.

Going into your email account and search for Eaglemoss and Dbfactory. You need to forward these to my email address if, you wish to have a class action template.

I am very serious about ‘no contact’ with them once, you have exhausted their chance to correct your problems.

I have had all the emails you are talking about and they can’t tell their R’s from their Elbows. They can’t even communicate effectively internally, either it’s a case of Chinese Whisper’s or you end up repeating yourself.

They are expecting us to give in to their fun and games.

They have sold us a piece of poo, based on the Reprap design and I can assure you, you don’t need a hood to print ABS successfully.

Everything they have commissioned with the Vector 3 is flawed.

If your new filling fell out by the dentist. Would you accept it if they said come back next year or see another dentist?

This is what Eaglemoss and Dbfactory are up to, passing us from pillar to post and back again.

We shouldn’t have to seek out our own fixes. We paid for a product and it’s not fit for purpose. How much anxiety and stress, not forgetting time, have you left?

Would they put up with it?

We want our money back and compensation.

My dear late Uncle, who recently passed away, used to quote ‘the squeaky wheel always gets the oil’ and this what we are ‘the squeaky wheel.’

Kind Regards

Andrew

andygreyrider
Oct '16

Hi Everyone,

It is not your duty to fix their mistakes.

If you want to stick with the Vector 3 piece of carp, that’s your prerogative.

If you want to salvage it, it’s a lot of tat for £900.

I cannot twist your arm to join me.

Hopefully, if you do come along for the ride, you were wise enough to keep all correspondence with Eaglemoss and Dbfactory and recorded every telephone conversation.

I personally have taken names, position in company, and digitally recorded every telephone conversation for the last 33 year’s.

I am not like any typical Englishman, letting it slide, I am very much American in that, I complain, claim and offer praise where it’s due.

You’re not alone if you would like redress for any situation. If it’s offered, use it because, you’re guaranteed someone will have their Ten Penneth out of you!

Another option is to go to your bank and ask for a draw back of funds. Banks are very good at this type of thing.

If like me, you paid with a credit card maybe, a claim lodged with them.

There is so much legislation these days geared for consumer rights protection.

Hey! If you don’t ask, you don’t get cliché, nearly always works.

I still want redress through the courts, don’t you?

Kind Regards

Andrew

Danny_Hardy
Oct '16

Well i have fixed it by removing the bottom screw of the plastic plate/grip that holds the limit switch in place. Pushinh it as far right as possible and glueing it in place. Its just because its about 1mm out. You can test it by moving the x-axis left and right to make sure the limit switch clicks when it reaches the end

Danny_Hardy
Oct '16

Ive found you can buy grub screws online woth threaded locks to stop them coming undone with vibrations. Im guna give that ago if not threaded lock glue seems the way

Graham_Tanfield
Oct '16

Still having trouble with the printer and software,the damn thing still vibrates as the printer head tries to go further to the left than its supposed to and the software still doesn’t tall to the printer so nothing prints.I have emailed both the tech guys and Eaglemoss with very little in the way of a solution and I also tried calling both the v3 customer services and technical help and was on hold for 10 minutes on each so I gave up. A refund is what I want now as it’s turned what I thought would be a good project and product into a large paperweight.Rant over

Danny_Hardy
Oct '16

Graham, the problem with the damn thing still vibrates as the printer head tries to go further to the left than its supposed to is a problem with the limit switch not being being pressed in fully, I put my fix below. You need to make sure it fully clicks as the print nozzle arm inside the metal case pushes the limit switch down.

If it is fully clicking and being hit every time and not being pushed back away then you will have a problem with the limit switch but either way thats what the limit switch is for and that is the reason, it is there to say " this is the end, stop moving in this direction "

Kevin_West
Oct '16

Do any of you guys think the bed mount points need to be stronger ?

Kevin_West
Oct '16

Thankyou

Will be glad to move away from the V3 Just rebuilding my Prusa I3 onto a 3mm Steel Frame.

Then I will Probably donate this V3 to My child’s School where Precision is not an issue.

Kevin_West
Oct '16

I’m ever the optimist…

I had one great print from this printer two days ago, and I thought I had cracked it.

Mmmm not the case how wrong could I have been as the next few prints started to degrade, and I thought it was my settings.

Tonight I started a print to discover the bed was not positioning to where I had calibrated it so I went through the process again, and found it was significantly off.

After closer inspection of the z axis I found that it alters its position, and this is due to the flimsy construction. I should not be able to move the axis by hand by 10mm. No wonder every photo of prints show visible ghosting.

I do not know what the answer is for this one I think I shall have to either gut it for parts or use it as a door stop, but I cannot risk the print quality

Peter_Over
Oct '16

I must be one of the lucky ones my printer is working fine even the software from Eaglemoss is working OK the only problem I have is the bed will not heat but with the use of masking tape and Ridge Ink PLA sticks to the bed well.

I did fine the calibration was hard and took some time but the bed has not moved and is still working after a number of prints.I also had a problem with the extra fan as the vent part did catch on the bed plate when first fitted but a small amount of bending the holding brackets solved this.

I did find that if I printed a large circle 125 dia and 1mm deep helped with the calibration as it was better to seen any errors.

Stephen_Kirby
Oct '16

I’m still emailing the technical staff about the problem with the extra fan and nozzle from issue 91. I too found it fouled the clip on the build plate and could catch. Also it was over cooling the print head so it never quite reached temperature. I’ve butchered the nozzle by cutting about 3mm from the nose, and altering the cut outs for the screws so that it sits flatter to the assembly. Lastly I have taped over 50% of the nozzle to restrict the cooling effect. None of that should be necessary though, and the latest emails suggest reversing the “silver brackets” and that there is a mismatch between the software temperature setting and the heater. They suggested turning up the software setting but that is odd as if the head doesn’t reach whatever is set then the printer won’t commence. My first print was a disaster and I had to clear a blocked print nozzle. The calibration setting is a real headache. I can’t understand how the V3 can have been around for this long yet there aren’t proper solutions. Oh, and the Mac software won’t open, it just crashes. Good job I have Windows too. Stephen

Kevin_West
Oct '16

They will help, however I would also go into manual mode and check that all axis move smoothly. I have found that my z axix is all over the place, and on closer inspection the weight of the x axis is causing the z axis to twist.

16 days later
Adesaxo31
Nov '16

Has anyone got an update on what’s happening with the software on Windows 10 iv emailed them multiple times and just get an automated response thanks in advance

Adesaxo31
Nov '16

Has anyone got an update on what’s happening with the software on Windows 10 iv emailed them multiple times and just get an automated response thanks in advance

Danny_Hardy
Nov '16

Hi Peter, can I ask you, is the metal frame that the print bed sits on very slightly bent? and what is this ridge ink PLA you speak of? Thanks in advance

Adesaxo31
Nov '16

Mine is bent apparently it’s meant to be like that so they say eaglemoss are the biggest bunch of bullsh*ters if u buy it ready to run its not bent they tell u any old crap so u go away

Peter_Over
Nov '16

Hi Danny the metal frame does not seem to be bent at least I have not noticed this. The Ridgid Ink I found searching the web It does not need a heated bed It is PLA, Ridig Ink produce a number of filaments and I have found them to be very fast in sending materials out, I use it as my bed will not heat have spoke to Eaglemoss and they are going to send me a new sensor but are waiting for new stock ti arrive. I now have a new problem that I am being denied access to Com 3 so can’t connect to my printer not sure if it is a program conflict so look on the net for a solution.

Danny_Hardy
Nov '16

Thanks for getting back to me Peter, many people including myself have found that the frame is very slightly bent, the horizontal bar directly under the print bed that goes from left to right, not front to back and moves the print bed up and down.

What measurement filament did you get? I have had success with very basic prints but keep having the model become unstuck and the nozzle touch the prints on larger more complex objects moving the object out of line, usually within the last 20 minutes or so, very frustrating.

Regarding your com3 problem, my first question would be, have you installed the drivers, I found an online video regarding installing drivers for the software and if i remembered correctly that was to do with that.

Thanks

Danny

Peter_Over
Nov '16

Hi Danny yes you are right my support bar under the print plate is bent but does not seem to effect the print I have resolved the problem with the com3 port I had installed Repieter host and it was a conflict between the 2 programs. I use the 1.75 Rigid ink filament not the plus but the standard this sticks well to a cold print bed too well so I use the wide masking tape to help remove the model from the print bed. I think this will solve your problem with the model becoming unstuck from the bed.

Thank you for your comment on installing new drivers though this was not the problem it pointed me in the right direction as a new install had caused the problem

Thanks

Pete

2 months later
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4 months later
Antonyvw
May '17

Ive been emailing them for months and still don’t have a resolution to my problem. They have replaced various parts but nothing has corrected the fault. Mine prints the initial layer ok but every layer on top of that is offset to the left. All I end up with is a mess of plastic with nothing formed.

Antony

6 months later
Antonyvw
Nov '17

Has anyone ever managed to get this thing working? After over a year of trying just about everything I can think of it still refuses to do its job. Every time I attempt to print from it the print moves to the left. So instead of the item being built one layer on top of each other - each succeeding layer is slightly to the left.

Ive had replacement parts - updated software - checked every connection and every motor/band - nothing has helped. As far as I’m concerned its just a very expensive pile of junk.

2 months later
nicodemus_uk
Jan '18

I also started with the print bed not heating up. All I had to do was re-apply the firmware and then it started heating up correctly. I also removed the extra cooling fan and it’s cover as it was stopping the print head from heating up enough.