Do any of you guys think the bed mount points need to be stronger ?
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Thankyou
Will be glad to move away from the V3 Just rebuilding my Prusa I3 onto a 3mm Steel Frame.
Then I will Probably donate this V3 to My child’s School where Precision is not an issue.
I’m ever the optimist…
I had one great print from this printer two days ago, and I thought I had cracked it.
Mmmm not the case how wrong could I have been as the next few prints started to degrade, and I thought it was my settings.
Tonight I started a print to discover the bed was not positioning to where I had calibrated it so I went through the process again, and found it was significantly off.
After closer inspection of the z axis I found that it alters its position, and this is due to the flimsy construction. I should not be able to move the axis by hand by 10mm. No wonder every photo of prints show visible ghosting.
I do not know what the answer is for this one I think I shall have to either gut it for parts or use it as a door stop, but I cannot risk the print quality
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I must be one of the lucky ones my printer is working fine even the software from Eaglemoss is working OK the only problem I have is the bed will not heat but with the use of masking tape and Ridge Ink PLA sticks to the bed well.
I did fine the calibration was hard and took some time but the bed has not moved and is still working after a number of prints.I also had a problem with the extra fan as the vent part did catch on the bed plate when first fitted but a small amount of bending the holding brackets solved this.
I did find that if I printed a large circle 125 dia and 1mm deep helped with the calibration as it was better to seen any errors.
I’m still emailing the technical staff about the problem with the extra fan and nozzle from issue 91. I too found it fouled the clip on the build plate and could catch. Also it was over cooling the print head so it never quite reached temperature. I’ve butchered the nozzle by cutting about 3mm from the nose, and altering the cut outs for the screws so that it sits flatter to the assembly. Lastly I have taped over 50% of the nozzle to restrict the cooling effect. None of that should be necessary though, and the latest emails suggest reversing the “silver brackets” and that there is a mismatch between the software temperature setting and the heater. They suggested turning up the software setting but that is odd as if the head doesn’t reach whatever is set then the printer won’t commence. My first print was a disaster and I had to clear a blocked print nozzle. The calibration setting is a real headache. I can’t understand how the V3 can have been around for this long yet there aren’t proper solutions. Oh, and the Mac software won’t open, it just crashes. Good job I have Windows too. Stephen
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They will help, however I would also go into manual mode and check that all axis move smoothly. I have found that my z axix is all over the place, and on closer inspection the weight of the x axis is causing the z axis to twist.
Has anyone got an update on what’s happening with the software on Windows 10 iv emailed them multiple times and just get an automated response thanks in advance
Has anyone got an update on what’s happening with the software on Windows 10 iv emailed them multiple times and just get an automated response thanks in advance
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Hi Peter, can I ask you, is the metal frame that the print bed sits on very slightly bent? and what is this ridge ink PLA you speak of? Thanks in advance
Mine is bent apparently it’s meant to be like that so they say eaglemoss are the biggest bunch of bullsh*ters if u buy it ready to run its not bent they tell u any old crap so u go away
Hi Danny the metal frame does not seem to be bent at least I have not noticed this. The Ridgid Ink I found searching the web It does not need a heated bed It is PLA, Ridig Ink produce a number of filaments and I have found them to be very fast in sending materials out, I use it as my bed will not heat have spoke to Eaglemoss and they are going to send me a new sensor but are waiting for new stock ti arrive. I now have a new problem that I am being denied access to Com 3 so can’t connect to my printer not sure if it is a program conflict so look on the net for a solution.
Thanks for getting back to me Peter, many people including myself have found that the frame is very slightly bent, the horizontal bar directly under the print bed that goes from left to right, not front to back and moves the print bed up and down.
What measurement filament did you get? I have had success with very basic prints but keep having the model become unstuck and the nozzle touch the prints on larger more complex objects moving the object out of line, usually within the last 20 minutes or so, very frustrating.
Regarding your com3 problem, my first question would be, have you installed the drivers, I found an online video regarding installing drivers for the software and if i remembered correctly that was to do with that.
Thanks
Danny
Hi Danny yes you are right my support bar under the print plate is bent but does not seem to effect the print I have resolved the problem with the com3 port I had installed Repieter host and it was a conflict between the 2 programs. I use the 1.75 Rigid ink filament not the plus but the standard this sticks well to a cold print bed too well so I use the wide masking tape to help remove the model from the print bed. I think this will solve your problem with the model becoming unstuck from the bed.
Thank you for your comment on installing new drivers though this was not the problem it pointed me in the right direction as a new install had caused the problem
Thanks
Pete
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Hi Jacob
I will help you where i can
chrisholland@eaglemoss.co.uk
