3D create and print (eagle moss)

Stephen_Kirby · 2016-10-20T17:05:06.000Z

I’m still emailing the technical staff about the problem with the extra fan and nozzle from issue 91. I too found it fouled the clip on the build plate and could catch. Also it was over cooling the print head so it never quite reached temperature. I’ve butchered the nozzle by cutting about 3mm from the nose, and altering the cut outs for the screws so that it sits flatter to the assembly. Lastly I have taped over 50% of the nozzle to restrict the cooling effect. None of that should be necessary though, and the latest emails suggest reversing the “silver brackets” and that there is a mismatch between the software temperature setting and the heater. They suggested turning up the software setting but that is odd as if the head doesn’t reach whatever is set then the printer won’t commence. My first print was a disaster and I had to clear a blocked print nozzle. The calibration setting is a real headache. I can’t understand how the V3 can have been around for this long yet there aren’t proper solutions. Oh, and the Mac software won’t open, it just crashes. Good job I have Windows too. Stephen

anon36107456 · 2016-10-22T07:35:40.000Z

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anon36107456 · 2016-10-22T15:36:18.000Z

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Kevin_West · 2016-10-23T13:06:52.000Z

They will help, however I would also go into manual mode and check that all axis move smoothly. I have found that my z axix is all over the place, and on closer inspection the weight of the x axis is causing the z axis to twist.

Adesaxo31 · 2016-11-08T19:41:08.000Z

Has anyone got an update on what’s happening with the software on Windows 10 iv emailed them multiple times and just get an automated response thanks in advance

Adesaxo31 · 2016-11-08T19:45:30.000Z

Has anyone got an update on what’s happening with the software on Windows 10 iv emailed them multiple times and just get an automated response thanks in advance

anon36107456 · 2016-11-08T21:16:44.000Z

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Danny_Hardy · 2016-11-13T22:19:38.000Z

Hi Peter, can I ask you, is the metal frame that the print bed sits on very slightly bent? and what is this ridge ink PLA you speak of? Thanks in advance

Adesaxo31 · 2016-11-13T22:30:44.000Z

Mine is bent apparently it’s meant to be like that so they say eaglemoss are the biggest bunch of bullsh*ters if u buy it ready to run its not bent they tell u any old crap so u go away

Peter_Over · 2016-11-14T05:47:18.000Z

Hi Danny the metal frame does not seem to be bent at least I have not noticed this. The Ridgid Ink I found searching the web It does not need a heated bed It is PLA, Ridig Ink produce a number of filaments and I have found them to be very fast in sending materials out, I use it as my bed will not heat have spoke to Eaglemoss and they are going to send me a new sensor but are waiting for new stock ti arrive. I now have a new problem that I am being denied access to Com 3 so can’t connect to my printer not sure if it is a program conflict so look on the net for a solution.

Danny_Hardy · 2016-11-14T16:10:36.000Z

Thanks for getting back to me Peter, many people including myself have found that the frame is very slightly bent, the horizontal bar directly under the print bed that goes from left to right, not front to back and moves the print bed up and down.

What measurement filament did you get? I have had success with very basic prints but keep having the model become unstuck and the nozzle touch the prints on larger more complex objects moving the object out of line, usually within the last 20 minutes or so, very frustrating.

Regarding your com3 problem, my first question would be, have you installed the drivers, I found an online video regarding installing drivers for the software and if i remembered correctly that was to do with that.

Thanks

Danny

Peter_Over · 2016-11-15T07:23:38.000Z

Hi Danny yes you are right my support bar under the print plate is bent but does not seem to effect the print I have resolved the problem with the com3 port I had installed Repieter host and it was a conflict between the 2 programs. I use the 1.75 Rigid ink filament not the plus but the standard this sticks well to a cold print bed too well so I use the wide masking tape to help remove the model from the print bed. I think this will solve your problem with the model becoming unstuck from the bed.

Thank you for your comment on installing new drivers though this was not the problem it pointed me in the right direction as a new install had caused the problem

Thanks

Pete

anon36107456 · 2017-01-02T13:22:28.000Z

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Chris_Eaglemoss · 2017-01-22T22:04:51.000Z

Hi Jacob

I will help you where i can

chrisholland@eaglemoss.co.uk

Chris_Eaglemoss · 2017-01-22T22:05:13.000Z

I will help you where i can

chrisholland@eaglemoss.co.uk

Chris_Eaglemoss · 2017-01-22T22:06:59.000Z

I will help you where i can

chrisholland@eaglemoss.co.uk

Chris_Eaglemoss · 2017-01-22T22:08:45.000Z

Hi Stephen

Send me an e-mail and I will get this sorted.

I will help you where i can

chrisholland@eaglemoss.co.uk

Antonyvw · 2017-05-21T14:03:07.000Z

Ive been emailing them for months and still don’t have a resolution to my problem. They have replaced various parts but nothing has corrected the fault. Mine prints the initial layer ok but every layer on top of that is offset to the left. All I end up with is a mess of plastic with nothing formed.

Antony

Antonyvw · 2017-11-13T14:48:16.000Z

Has anyone ever managed to get this thing working? After over a year of trying just about everything I can think of it still refuses to do its job. Every time I attempt to print from it the print moves to the left. So instead of the item being built one layer on top of each other - each succeeding layer is slightly to the left.

Ive had replacement parts - updated software - checked every connection and every motor/band - nothing has helped. As far as I’m concerned its just a very expensive pile of junk.

nicodemus_uk · 2018-01-11T15:10:32.000Z

I also started with the print bed not heating up. All I had to do was re-apply the firmware and then it started heating up correctly. I also removed the extra cooling fan and it’s cover as it was stopping the print head from heating up enough.