Well i have fixed it by removing the bottom screw of the plastic plate/grip that holds the limit switch in place. Pushinh it as far right as possible and glueing it in place. Its just because its about 1mm out. You can test it by moving the x-axis left and right to make sure the limit switch clicks when it reaches the end
Skip to main content
Ive found you can buy grub screws online woth threaded locks to stop them coming undone with vibrations. Im guna give that ago if not threaded lock glue seems the way
And guess what you can print with it ad the printer works to build cases to cover the electronics.
No sarcasm intended I done the same within two days of firing this v3 up
I have not been able to connect with the printer using repetier.
[post deleted per user request]
Yes please
Do any of you guys think the bed mount points need to be stronger ?
Thankyou
Will be glad to move away from the V3 Just rebuilding my Prusa I3 onto a 3mm Steel Frame.
Then I will Probably donate this V3 to My child’s School where Precision is not an issue.
I’m ever the optimist…
I had one great print from this printer two days ago, and I thought I had cracked it.
Mmmm not the case how wrong could I have been as the next few prints started to degrade, and I thought it was my settings.
Tonight I started a print to discover the bed was not positioning to where I had calibrated it so I went through the process again, and found it was significantly off.
After closer inspection of the z axis I found that it alters its position, and this is due to the flimsy construction. I should not be able to move the axis by hand by 10mm. No wonder every photo of prints show visible ghosting.
I do not know what the answer is for this one I think I shall have to either gut it for parts or use it as a door stop, but I cannot risk the print quality
I must be one of the lucky ones my printer is working fine even the software from Eaglemoss is working OK the only problem I have is the bed will not heat but with the use of masking tape and Ridge Ink PLA sticks to the bed well.
I did fine the calibration was hard and took some time but the bed has not moved and is still working after a number of prints.I also had a problem with the extra fan as the vent part did catch on the bed plate when first fitted but a small amount of bending the holding brackets solved this.
I did find that if I printed a large circle 125 dia and 1mm deep helped with the calibration as it was better to seen any errors.
I’m still emailing the technical staff about the problem with the extra fan and nozzle from issue 91. I too found it fouled the clip on the build plate and could catch. Also it was over cooling the print head so it never quite reached temperature. I’ve butchered the nozzle by cutting about 3mm from the nose, and altering the cut outs for the screws so that it sits flatter to the assembly. Lastly I have taped over 50% of the nozzle to restrict the cooling effect. None of that should be necessary though, and the latest emails suggest reversing the “silver brackets” and that there is a mismatch between the software temperature setting and the heater. They suggested turning up the software setting but that is odd as if the head doesn’t reach whatever is set then the printer won’t commence. My first print was a disaster and I had to clear a blocked print nozzle. The calibration setting is a real headache. I can’t understand how the V3 can have been around for this long yet there aren’t proper solutions. Oh, and the Mac software won’t open, it just crashes. Good job I have Windows too. Stephen
