3D create and print (eagle moss)

Danny_Hardy · 2016-10-12T07:54:02.000Z

Is anyone having any problems with grub screws coming loose after a few prints? which then causes the printing to go out of line and I wondered if anyone had any solutions for that? I am thinking metal glue

Danny_Hardy · 2016-10-12T07:54:41.000Z

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anon36107456 · 2016-10-12T15:54:53.000Z

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anon36107456 · 2016-10-12T15:55:32.000Z

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Danny_Hardy · 2016-10-12T16:12:57.000Z

Well i have fixed it by removing the bottom screw of the plastic plate/grip that holds the limit switch in place. Pushinh it as far right as possible and glueing it in place. Its just because its about 1mm out. You can test it by moving the x-axis left and right to make sure the limit switch clicks when it reaches the end

Danny_Hardy · 2016-10-12T16:16:41.000Z

Ive found you can buy grub screws online woth threaded locks to stop them coming undone with vibrations. Im guna give that ago if not threaded lock glue seems the way

Danny_Hardy · 2016-10-13T10:28:22.000Z

accu.co.uk

M2 x 4mm Flat Point Set / Grub Screws (DIN 913) - Thread Locking A4 Stainless...

Buy M2 x 4mm Flat Point Set / Grub Screws (DIN 913) - Thread Locking Marine Stainless Steel (A4) from Accu's Precision Screws range. Manufactured by AccuLock. Available on a short lead time with express worldwide delivery available.

I think this is what we are looking for. I have ordered some so I will soon find out.

Graham_Tanfield · 2016-10-13T11:09:22.000Z

Still having trouble with the printer and software,the damn thing still vibrates as the printer head tries to go further to the left than its supposed to and the software still doesn’t tall to the printer so nothing prints.I have emailed both the tech guys and Eaglemoss with very little in the way of a solution and I also tried calling both the v3 customer services and technical help and was on hold for 10 minutes on each so I gave up. A refund is what I want now as it’s turned what I thought would be a good project and product into a large paperweight.Rant over

anon36107456 · 2016-10-13T11:13:33.000Z

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Danny_Hardy · 2016-10-13T12:18:36.000Z

Graham, the problem with the damn thing still vibrates as the printer head tries to go further to the left than its supposed to is a problem with the limit switch not being being pressed in fully, I put my fix below. You need to make sure it fully clicks as the print nozzle arm inside the metal case pushes the limit switch down.

If it is fully clicking and being hit every time and not being pushed back away then you will have a problem with the limit switch but either way thats what the limit switch is for and that is the reason, it is there to say " this is the end, stop moving in this direction "

Kevin_West · 2016-10-14T02:09:04.000Z

Hi All

I know that some of us are having issues with this printer, however if you do manage to get it to work here are some tips.

Firstly forget the slicing system in the printers software just use it as a way to connect to your printer, send the g_codes.

download

Meshmixer at www.meshmixer.com

Slic3r at http://slic3r.org

Meshlab at http://meshlab.sourceforge.net

Now I use Meshmixer to add the support structure to the Model, Slic3r to generate the g_code then upload with 3d create and print.

now Meshlab I use to convert the sketchup file to stl as sometimes the sketchup plugin fails.

Here are the settings for PLA in Slic3r I use which seem to work.

In Print Settings

Layers & Perimeters

Layer Height 0.2

First layer Height 0.2

Perimeter 3

Solid layers top and bottom 3

Seam position random

Infill

Fill density between 25% and 80% depending how strong you want the Model

Fill Pattern Honeycomb

Top & Bottom Fill pattern Rectilinear

Combine every fill layer 1

Only when needed tick

Solid infill layer 3

Fill angle 45 degrees

Solid infill threshold 70 mm2

Infill before perimeter tick

Skirt And Brim

Loops 4

Distance from object 4

Skirt height 1

Minimum Extrusion length 0

Brim width 0

Support Material

Make sure it is not ticked as you will get better results from Meshmix do look on youtube for tutorials.

Speed

Perimeters 30

Small Perimeters 20

External Perimeters 15

Infill 50

Solid Infill 50

Top Solid Infill 50

Support Material 50

Support Material Interface 60

Bridges 60

Gap Fill 20

Travel 80

First Layer Speed 30

The rest of the settings make sure they are set to 0 except Max Print Speed set to 80

Multiple Extruders

Make sure the settings are set to 1 and the tick boxes are empty

Advanced

Make sure all settings are set to 0 except these settings

First Layer 200%

Infill Perimeter Overlap 20%

Bridge Flow Ratio 1

Threads 2

That’s all the setting for this section

Filament Settings

You need to set that according to the material you are using and the recommended settings**.**

Printer Settings

General

Bed Shape Rectangular

Size 140 X 140

Origin 0 0

Extruders 1

G-Code Flavor RepRap

Pressure Advance 0

Vibration Limit 0

Custom G Codes leave alone

Extruder 1

Nozzel Diameter 0.4

Extruder Offset 0 & 0

Length 1.5

Lift Z 0.5

Speed 20

Extra Length On Restart 0

Minimum travel after retraction 1.5

The two boxes not ticked

Length 10

Extra length on restart 0

This should set you up for printing

When you do load the G-code the printer will tell you the bed is heating , But it will not mention the print head. Just let it run.

Now as for the Printer

That square PCB build plate get shot of it as it is useless.

Get hold of some sheet Aluminum the same size as the PCB. Rough the surface with some 80 grit emery paper.

When you get ready to to print spray the Aluminum with cheap Hair Spray, this will help combat warping.

I have added a Photo of the results.

Do search for tutorials on the software packages I have mentioned, but ultimately get a better printer for half the price we had to pay for this thing.

Kevin_West · 2016-10-14T02:17:13.000Z

And guess what you can print with it ad the printer works to build cases to cover the electronics.

No sarcasm intended I done the same within two days of firing this v3 up

Kevin_West · 2016-10-14T08:54:15.000Z

I have not been able to connect with the printer using repetier.

anon36107456 · 2016-10-14T09:38:06.000Z

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Kevin_West · 2016-10-14T13:00:10.000Z

Yes please

Kevin_West · 2016-10-14T13:02:56.000Z

Do any of you guys think the bed mount points need to be stronger ?

anon36107456 · 2016-10-14T18:18:57.000Z

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Kevin_West · 2016-10-14T20:30:07.000Z

Thankyou

Will be glad to move away from the V3 Just rebuilding my Prusa I3 onto a 3mm Steel Frame.

Then I will Probably donate this V3 to My child’s School where Precision is not an issue.

Kevin_West · 2016-10-16T00:20:10.000Z

I’m ever the optimist…

I had one great print from this printer two days ago, and I thought I had cracked it.

Mmmm not the case how wrong could I have been as the next few prints started to degrade, and I thought it was my settings.

Tonight I started a print to discover the bed was not positioning to where I had calibrated it so I went through the process again, and found it was significantly off.

After closer inspection of the z axis I found that it alters its position, and this is due to the flimsy construction. I should not be able to move the axis by hand by 10mm. No wonder every photo of prints show visible ghosting.

I do not know what the answer is for this one I think I shall have to either gut it for parts or use it as a door stop, but I cannot risk the print quality

anon36107456 · 2016-10-16T18:01:06.000Z

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