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Increase your sold layers for the top and bottom in your slicing software.
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Something is not tight, print a test cube and check to see if you can find a pattern.
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I know how frustrating it is to have bad parts, i had the same when i got my printer. Let me check when i get home, i might have a spare laying around i can send you free of charge to get you up and running.
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Your temps could be too high, or the nozzle is worn out.
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Like mentioned, is it heated? what type of surface? I have a heated bed with glass on top. To get good adhesion i use the heated bed, and hair spray. Sometimes it sticks too well, but i would rather have that problem over loosing a print halfway through a 12+ hour print. If you use this method, afte…
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Also check your speed, i was having an issue with shifted layers on my “y” axis and it ended up being the speed was set too high and would cause the stepper to skip steps.
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One good thing is if you get a model of printer that is pretty common, like a prusa clone, most parts are interchangeable and can be ordered from other sites. So if they did short you parts, other than main frame components, you are able to get from other sources.
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sorry i should have clarified, when i said i bought a Prusa i3, i should have mentioned it was a “Migbot Prusa i3” from 3dprinteronlinestore. I went the cheap route, it was far from easy getting it to print consistently, but i have learned a ton, and do pretty well with it now.
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It is for sure a crap shoot, i was lucky, others were not. I really dont think they are that familiar with 3d printing itself, they are more worried about making the sale.
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i do not have auto leveling on mine, would it be nice? yes! but being able to level the bed manually is another good skill to have. You can always add the auto leveling feature at another time, buy your sensor, print your brackets, and upgrade the firmware is what is involved in adding it. Regarding…
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I fought layer shifting for quite some time, mine was caused by a mixture of speed/acceleration and my belt tensioners, what axis is this happening on? what type of tensioner do you have on said axis? Is your speed/acceleration set too high?
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I can not speak for this particular printer, but i ordered my Prusa i3 from 3DPrintersonlinestore about 1 1/2 years ago, and it has been a learning experience ever since. If you are new to 3d printing, and want to learn the ins and outs, then a diy kit is the way to go, if not, then i would look els…
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I have had zero luck with glue sticks, my go to is hair spray, I go to the dollars store and buy a big can of aerosol hair spray, heat the bed, spray a coat on it, about a minute or two it gets tacky and I rarely have parts break loose. Clean up consists of removing the glass, spray some finger nail…
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I use them to wrap Christmas lights around for storage!!! Just an idea!
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Use glass, and upgrade to a heated bed if it does not have one already. I have a i3 kit from china, and although it has been a PIA at times, it has been a great learning tool. The best I have found for part adhesion is hairspray with the heated bed, sometimes it is actually difficult to remove parts…
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I experienced something very similar, mine was harder to track down as it would only occur occasionally during prints. My printer would start out fine, then some time during the print my extruder would start jerking like you described. I thought it was temperature so I added active cooling, which di…
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Give hairspray a try, i tried tape and glue to no avail. Switched to strictly using hairspray and have not had an issue since.
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Place it in the hole along with some thermal compound, at least thats what i did.
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Amazon has everything!!!
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seems like there is definatley an issue with the barrel, do you have a spare that you can try? If not i would contact the supplier, and or order some new ones.
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Check out this link, it really come sin handy diagnosing printing issues. I think you should specifically look at the “Vibrations and Ringing” https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#vibrations-and-ringing
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if you are able to edit the file, go in and attach round pads coming off of the areas that are curling, This will give more surface area for adhesion.
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are you using a slicer to convert it to a gcode? or are you trying to print the .stl?
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It really just depends on what you are printing, i would say my failure rates would be 0% - 100%. Not trying to be a smart a$$ but there are so many factors that come into play. Filament quality, bed leveling, print temperature, speed … this list just goes on and on
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So i tore into the printer last night, the nozzle is extremely wore out so i installed a replacement, but i am also having bearing issues so i was unable to give it try.
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i understand the temps being cooler on the outside of the heater block, but we are talking only getting a reading of 80c on the thermomter, i am going to try and paint one side of the heater block black in color to avoid any issues with reflection. I also have some new thermistors and thermal compou…
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I believe the thermistor setting is correct, nothing changed before i swapped the thermistor.
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i use multiple single edge razor blades, make sure the bed and part are cold, or else you will warp the edges/corners, start a razor blade in each corner and gently tap them around the print to loosen it. Usually it will just pop off, if it still doesnt, i take the handle of a screw driver and tap i…
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either the thermistor is not reading the temps correctly, or your power supply is not providing enough power.
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Most likely, you do not have enough pressure on the extruder drive gear, if you can manage to get it to print, you can print your own pieces. Worst case scenario is just order one from a hub on here. The one that came with my “Migbot Prusa I3” had a simple spring to apply the pressure, it was not st…
