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In general, STL files are generally not meant to be edited any further and it’s difficult to treat them as anything but a mesh. Try importing the STEP file instead.
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Depends entirely on the nature of the piece you’re trying to make. Some organic shapes can be easily created within a modeling program such as Blender or a sculpting program such as Sculptris. Other organic shapes may look more “natural” if modeled in clay and scanned, but you do have to keep in min…
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This is a very interesting idea. As far as I can tell acetone smoothing does essentially the same thing to ABS, but it’s much more of a hassle and (for me at least) must be set up on a per-part basis. Having a seamless device that accomplishes the same effect with minimal effort could be huge. I’m u…
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Stainless steel would indeed be better. Particularly with some mid-ranged to low-end brass nozzles, the metal composition can actually contain trace amounts of lead, whereas stainless steel nozzles wouldn’t really have this as an issue.
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I can’t really view the model right now, but assuming it fits the prerequisites for laser cutting (must be made from either a single flat sheet or stacked flat sheets) it might indeed be better to have it laser cut. 3D Hubs charges by volume, and a 66cm part’s volume would be quite massive even if y…
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Seconded. 3DHubs’ best 3D printer guide is one of the best sources online because of the huge population it draws from to make its decisions. Check it out and decide what you want. I would consider the Printrbot Play as one of the best options for beginners right now because of its low price, quali…
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If your model is simply not manifold (meaning there are gaps between faces, making it not watertight), you can simply upload it to the 3D Model Repair Service. It should fix most minor errors with your model. If your model is inherently not 3D printable because of geometry or if it has major manifo…
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This means that the hub owner has already accepted the order. To cancel simply post a comment under the order requesting to cancel and check the “I need help from 3D Hubs Support” box.
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Please do this. It would give me the final push to buy a laser cutter
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You may have a fair point as to the renaming of the button to “Find a hub near you”. I’m indifferent to that either way, so if by chance you do get it implemented I won’t oppose it. However, as I said, I do expect the “3D print” button to divert away from the current hub if that’s what it does on e…
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I don’t agree. The “3D Print” button is sitewide and always directs a user to the same page, which is good for consistency. If you had the same button for two different purposes, going to the general Print page and requesting a quote from the hub, it would confuse a lot of people. Besides, there’s …
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It was very much a legit offer: it was covered by a lot of 3D printing news outlets, and I even remember seeing it on their site at some point. Keep in mind 56 rolls of filament amounts to about $2030. Of course, that’s still an extraordinary deal, where you basically purchased a printer and got en…
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Looks very nice. I have to ask, though: Does the D-limonene treatment only work for thin parts with one or two perimeters and no infill? To me it would seem that way since there’s no way to effectively make infill transparent simply by dissolving the outside shell. If that’s the case, I think the s…
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Do you mean T-slot extrusion? There are many sources for it, but I have two go-to vendors. Misumi has high-quality extrusion in a variety of measurements and finishes for extremely reasonable prices: a meter of 20mmx20mm extrusion costs just $5.70. Openbuilds is the only place I’m aware of that sel…
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Usually, cases like these aren’t because their own filament is special in any way, but is instead that they can’t guarantee the quality of any other filaments. They don’t want to replace a print head that you clogged by using a $5 reel from China, so it’s simpler for them to say that if you don’t us…
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Those look like fairly standard 40mm NEMA 17s. They’re more or less the industry standard among consumer 3D printers and should suit you fine. According to a reliable source in physics I just consulted, it doesn’t actually take any more force to move the delta print head on the larger printer than …
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First and foremost, as TstarkEngineer said, this looks like a rather major case of underextrusion. You need to recalibrate your extruder Esteps/mm. I’ve also encountered issues like this when I’ve tried printing with layer heights far too low for my printer to handle, in which case the amount of pl…
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Yeah, the 120W was my estimate if the bed was on. I don’t know the specifics for the Ultimaker’s bed specifically, but to maintain a constant 70C temperature my MK2 with a glass plate is on about 60% output all the time. I was going to go ahead and assume the Ultimaker’s bed was more efficient than …
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I’ve had pretty poor luck with most general purpose glues, but a few months back I was able to obtain several 3DSystems “CubeStick” sticks. It’s worked amazingly, sticking well to every type of plastic I throw at it and washing off easily with water. The only problem is, I’m running out and might n…
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I’ve been thinking about the power source as well. I have to imagine there were some corners cut in terms of power, since in order to run at a conservative (for a UM2) 120W or so for even 5 hours, you’d need 5 6S 5000mAh batteries (and if you haven’t seen batteries of that size, they’re actually pre…
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Extremely impressive. I knew Ultimakers were robust, but I never imagined they could print while being transported under no special care. I’ve always regarded my P3Steel as durable, but I know that it would never be able to do such a thing.
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Well, if you’re sure, I’d be open for an order. I’ve looked at all of the files for a C-bot and they look fairly simple to print. However, a few considerations: 1. The entire C-bot package is a massive order. I can’t really give an estimate of my prices or the shipping I’d have to charge until I h…
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Just to further clarify, technically all of the extrusions in question qualify as T-slot extrusions since T-slot just means they have a channel down each side for T-slot nuts. The V-slot extrusions still count as T-slots, but are just a bit different because of the V-shaped channel. So, you’re not w…
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Hi Brokkr! I have a fair bit of experience in RepRap and might be able to provide some info. (wall of text incoming) I’d recommend taking a serious look at OpenBuilds V-slots as opposed to T-slot bushings (I don’t know if they’re the same ones that you were looking at, since your last link is a du…
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Oddly enough, I use CuraEngine from Repetier-Host and it has more options than the standalone Cura. You have full control over rotation as well as individually configurable speeds for different types of motion, Z-hop, and several other things.
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To me it seems that instead of controlling DC motors with PWM (which would require encoders for feedback if you wanted any kind of precision, which would in turn require ), it would be much easier to replace the CNC controller with RepRap hardware such as a RAMPS board, and use RepRap stepper driver…
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MK8s don’t actually have a better drive gear than MK7s: AFAIK they use the exact same one. The main advantage that MK8s have over MK7s is the lever idler, which allows for quick adjustment of filament grip strength as well as quick releases of filaments, but you could actually just print a new MK7 b…
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The Turnigy Mini Fabrikator is $177. One of the major features a higher price will add is a heated bed, but besides that ease of use and reliability both generally go up drastically as the price increases. More expensive printers will use better parts as well as be built more solidly, so you’ll e…
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Unfortunately, I don’t see any Chinese printer being quite as good as the Zortrax M200. Chinese printers usually use barely-sufficient to mid-ranged parts in an attempt to keep costs down (luckily Wanhao leans more towards the mid-ranged generally), whereas most European and American companies stuck…
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I don’t know about PETG specifically, but in general HIPS works well as a support material for a lot of plastics, particularly ABS, and PVA works well for PLA. However, HIPS needs limonene to be dissolved, and PVA is notoriously tricky to print properly (if held for a long time at high temperature, …
