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A moisture analyzer can cost $3000 to $5000. What I used to do many years ago, for seeing if plastic pellets had moisture in them was: Heat up a hot plate to the melting temperature of the plastic. Put 2 glass microscope slides on the plate to preheat. Put some pellets on one of the slides, and put …
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Here’s another site for creating lithophane stl files: https://lithophanemaker.com/ I have tried the nightlight maker and it worked well. Just use the default settings, and send it to someone who has a 3d printer. Tell them to use a natural or white PLA material.
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Also, I wouldn’t try and scan the left shoe, I would just use CAD software like Fusion 360 to model it. It looks like a simple design that could be done fairly easily.
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I have heard of nylon being used for shoe soles. I have printed with Taulman 645 and it prints very nicely. Nylon would be lightweight and very tough.
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If your oven will go down to about 175F you can put it in there for 4 or 5 hours, assuming the filament is PLA or PETG. You can do it with ABS, but it might smell
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Well, I took a quick look at this file, and while I personally don’t have experience printing these figures, I can say that it does have some problems. Meshmixer identifies quite a few problems, and if you try to auto repair, it removes a lot of geometry. I uploaded the file to the free Netfabb serv…
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I would assume it would take an hour or less of design time. Guessing to print the part, say in a PETG material could be $10 to $15. That being said, I assume by the times that you are responding to these posts, that you are not anywhere near my time zone
. I suggest you find a hub local to you, th… -
Can you have a separate piece designed that would take up that gap. It could be sanded and painted with a chrome color paint. You wouldn’t need any thread on the plastic part. [screenshot-2017-11-12_shower_tapware_parts.jpg]
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See pics attached. [box1.jpg] [box2.jpg]
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Looks like nozzle is not close enough to bed. Check z offset or z limit (if you have one).
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I’ve used this: https://www.digitmakers.ca/collections/flexible-filaments-1-75-mm/products/3d-printer-filaments-t-flex?variant=26393701067 It is pretty stiff compared to some of the TPU filaments, like Ninja-Flex. Not sure about how much grip it has, but may be an option, assuming you can source it…
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I would say rather than 3D scanning, you should have it designed up in CAD. Will be much more accurate, and modifications to the design can be made a lot easier.
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Check out http://www.thingiverse.com Search for Lego, there are all kinds of models.
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In injection molding, for a inexpensive method to check if there was moisture in the pellets, I would use a hotplate and glass slides. You heat up 2 slides (the kind used for microscopes) to the melting temp of the plastic, put some pellets, or in the case of filament, cut up pieces, and then put th…
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Yes, I had a roll of black eSun PETG that was printing fine for me, but I forgot to seal it up for about a week or so. When I tried to print with it it would pop and spit and print was brittle. I dried it in my oven for 5hrs @ 175F and it works fine again.
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You should contact XYZprinting.
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For your Barbie pool?? lol.
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Hard to tell from pics, but maybe you do not have good adhesion/squish on first layer.
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Have you looked up the JellyBOX 3D printer from IMade3D? They do kid friendly workshops and build your own 3D printer and test it out. It is close to your area.
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Check in your profile settings. I know it said that you cannot change after you pick one, so that’s probably why we can’t find where to set it. But it should show up for you under Settings.
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Have you looked at the d-bot, and variants? If you could build your own, it seems to be a pretty good design, and you could put the quality of components in it that you want. There is a pretty good Facebook community for it.
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When I first saw this title, I was thinking “Will 3D print for food”!? lol PETG is the same material used in water bottles. Try and use natural (no colorant) so there is no question of what is in the colrant.
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When I paste a link to my hub on Facebook, it seems to use the profile picture of the person from my last order. Something is not right!
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I have a customer that needed a gear for a printing press. I designed it up and 3d printed it for him. He would have had to buy the steel shaft with the gear for about $800! I saved him a lot! Take a look at the picture on my hub.
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For your calibration prints, you should be printing bed calibration parts, 20mm cubes and such. Do a search on Thingiverse for calibration prints.
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I had a problem when I first got my printer where when the part cooling fan turned up after the first layers, I would have poor layer adhesion/extrusion gaps. I watched it while printing and saw my actual extrusion temp dropping when the fan was running faster. I adjusted my fans so it wouldn’t blow…
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I’ve seen some machines that come with a switch with a replaceable fuse in it. Not sure if this is what you have. Also unplug the power cord and check that the connector crimps are good and tight. [iec_320_c14_red_light_rocker_switch_fuse_inlet_male_connector_plug-1024x768_0.jpg]
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Some switches have a fuse in them? Does yours? Of course if it does, and it did blow, the question is why?
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Seems to me I’ve seen purple colored ABS glue, but only tried the yellow. It is Oatey brand, ‘Premium Grade Yellow ABS Cement’. If you happen to have something else, you could test it out.
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I am using ABS pipe cement (yellow) and holds very well. You have to be able to put some pressure on the parts, 1 joint that I didn’t put pressure on, did not hold. All others held really well (I was not able to break them apart).
![[screenshot-2017-11-12_shower_tapware_parts.jpg]](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/uploads/db5060/original/3X/6/8/68c2f664e2c05b785d225c31a795866959388c30.jpg){kind=link}
![[box1.jpg]](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/uploads/db5060/original/3X/a/e/aeb3e6615e5bc9827e4fe58fe602d9690bfa9192.jpg){kind=link}
![[box2.jpg]](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/uploads/db5060/original/3X/0/e/0eda3e97aa7b5f700f6c6d3fe998bce874c5e7ee.jpg){kind=link}
![[iec_320_c14_red_light_rocker_switch_fuse_inlet_male_connector_plug-1024x768_0.jpg]](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/uploads/db5060/original/3X/3/c/3cdcb99ee72a22ae93bfbfa39b08be6304ab6a35.jpg){kind=link}