I have tried using cura and other slicers but when I do the head crashes into the front left side of the printer.
yes CTC black case… about the leveling…im added to the table a 3mm glass to the table im using the right extruder… and ive already level the extruders using a jig found on thingiverse: Dualstrustion nozzle leveling Fixture by einer_designs - Thingiverse 28…
I get the two extruders to scratch the paper… both scratch at the left also at the right… but if i level at front… when i get the paper scratching… at the left or right is too tight… if l loosen it i get no scratch ate front center… Ive add the glass bed… to get a level surface to exclude a non level bed…
Did you try repeating the level test back to back a few times. I found this helped me lots.
Also brand of blue tape makes a difference. I found the 3m brand works best for me.
And a glue stick. Elmer’s. I get the purple one to easily tell if I covered everything correctly
So you also use glue stick for pla?! can you provide some printing settings?
thanks.
Speed is way too high for a .10mm print. Set it to 40 not 90. Print layer height has a comma instead of decimal ( not sure if that matters). And enable print bed heating set at 50
Not quite sure what u mean by clear eeprom. Yes I have sailfish v7.7… I’m using cura to slice then saving and using repg to generate X3G. Is that the right way??
When the print head crashes it usually indicates incorrect offsets. This can be caused by not resetting the eeprom when going from stock firmware to sailfish. http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-configuring.html#x35-910006.4.1 8 Or cura thinking that 0.0 is the back right corner of your printer. You should be concentrating on getting prints correct with makerware before cura. Cura was not made for our bots, and is really for advanced users. Adding so many variables for a new user is not recommended. Honestly, simplify3d(150$US) is hands down the best slicer, and has gpx built in.
I have been printing with makerware for about 8 or 9 months it works. Just wanted to try Cura.
Hey what’s up welcome to the CTC family lol. Me and my CTC have been to hell and back. We started from the bottom now we here. You’re printing pla so you should be below 205. 220 is so hot that heat creeps upward and softens the pla, making it too difficult for the extruder to feed it. You have ptfe tubes so you should probably print lower than 205. You probably don’t have a third fan for active cooling so you will have to go even lower. I suspect around 185-195. I went the all metal route so I don’t have those issues.
Hello…
this is the best print i got until now…using preheat settings of extruder 230… and bed 55, with makerware i can set temp. but the printer dosent acept the command… So i have use the printer menu, also tryed to disable the pre heating menu… but if i do that… the printer wont heat and trys to print…
Tried to print with lower temp but the result was bad the first line of filment wouldnt stick to the bed even if i use glue stick at 230 e works…
the print is not very good… but it was the best for now…
Are you still using the filament that came with the CTC? Or have you tried different brands? Does it smell sweet when printed or have a plastic smell?
By that I’m going to assume that you have not accurately measured your filament diameter, you have failed to properly calibrate your slicer, as per “the manual” http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/tuning-slicer-calibration.html#x27-670005.1 4 . I am not convinced that you preformed the factory reset as described , http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-configuring.html#x35-910006.4.1 3 .
I’ll bet it came with a roll of abs. Pla smells sweet. Your print looks like abs. Heat bed temp should be 110. I know the rolls are not marked and can come with abs or pla
Hello…
The filament that came with the printer is tagged PLA, how can i now if its pla or Abs?
thanks
Abs has a strong plastic smell when printed. Pla smells like a light corn syrup
ABS will dissolve in acetone, PLA will not. I have not heard any one else report mislabeled filament from CTC. Again from those pictures, this is clearly a user error issue, OP needs to learn how to calibrate the slicer. Follow the instructions laid out in sailfish manual.
In the picture showing the first layer, it looks like you’re not trammed proper. It’s very squished in the corner and then the stands are not touching further on the solid layer. What do your calibration cubes look like. I also see over extrusion. What is your filament measuring to actually?
is that 100% infill? first issue is temp. it is way too hot. the severe deformation is a really good indicator of that. A good visual temp indicator is the prints luster. A more matte print indicates a low temp, while a glossy finish indicates higher temps. For PLA test cube, especially on your printer with no filament cooling, print two at a time on opposite sides of your build platform. This will allow each individual layer to cool before adding more molten material. This is very good tip while trying to print marvins. What is your first layer settings? I think the pics #5&6 are the bottom of the cube? you might be too far from the nozzle, but regardless there is too much plastic coming from the nozzle. I will grab a pic of my test cubes in a sec. I did photo my first layer of a print i started this morning. What your seeing is a skirt. This is an outline of the entire print job. Notice how the thickness is the same all around. just a little flattened by the nozzle. This is magenta PETG filament from Esun.
you asked about other filaments as well. Esun is a high quality manufacturer. If you have a microcenter in your area you can find inland brand, relabeled Esun, at 15$ Kg.
