Speed is way too high for a .10mm print. Set it to 40 not 90. Print layer height has a comma instead of decimal ( not sure if that matters). And enable print bed heating set at 50
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hello… the extruders are even ive used a jig that i got on thingiverse… its odd because if i level at the right or left i lose grip at front center… im going to try and level again… lets see if all goes well…
thanks.
Not quite sure what u mean by clear eeprom. Yes I have sailfish v7.7… I’m using cura to slice then saving and using repg to generate X3G. Is that the right way??
When the print head crashes it usually indicates incorrect offsets. This can be caused by not resetting the eeprom when going from stock firmware to sailfish. http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-configuring.html#x35-910006.4.1 Or cura thinking that 0.0 is the back right corner of your printer. You should be concentrating on getting prints correct with makerware before cura. Cura was not made for our bots, and is really for advanced users. Adding so many variables for a new user is not recommended. Honestly, simplify3d(150$US) is hands down the best slicer, and has gpx built in.
I have been printing with makerware for about 8 or 9 months it works. Just wanted to try Cura.
Hey what’s up welcome to the CTC family lol. Me and my CTC have been to hell and back. We started from the bottom now we here. You’re printing pla so you should be below 205. 220 is so hot that heat creeps upward and softens the pla, making it too difficult for the extruder to feed it. You have ptfe tubes so you should probably print lower than 205. You probably don’t have a third fan for active cooling so you will have to go even lower. I suspect around 185-195. I went the all metal route so I don’t have those issues.
ive made some tests… i only can control temp. using the pre heating menu on the print… by soft. its impossible… the glue stick works… the pla stays on the bed… the leveling problem of the bed was the bed arms they weren’t even… But i still cant get good prints…
Hello…
this is the best print i got until now…using preheat settings of extruder 230… and bed 55, with makerware i can set temp. but the printer dosent acept the command… So i have use the printer menu, also tryed to disable the pre heating menu… but if i do that… the printer wont heat and trys to print…
Tried to print with lower temp but the result was bad the first line of filment wouldnt stick to the bed even if i use glue stick at 230 e works…
the print is not very good… but it was the best for now…
Are you still using the filament that came with the CTC? Or have you tried different brands? Does it smell sweet when printed or have a plastic smell?
By that I’m going to assume that you have not accurately measured your filament diameter, you have failed to properly calibrate your slicer, as per “the manual” http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/tuning-slicer-calibration.html#x27-670005.1 . I am not convinced that you preformed the factory reset as described , http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-configuring.html#x35-910006.4.1 .
Hello… Im using the filament that came with the ctc printer… No i didnt use different brands. It smells plastic.
I’ll bet it came with a roll of abs. Pla smells sweet. Your print looks like abs. Heat bed temp should be 110. I know the rolls are not marked and can come with abs or pla
Hello…
The filament that came with the printer is tagged PLA, how can i now if its pla or Abs?
thanks
Abs has a strong plastic smell when printed. Pla smells like a light corn syrup
ABS will dissolve in acetone, PLA will not. I have not heard any one else report mislabeled filament from CTC. Again from those pictures, this is clearly a user error issue, OP needs to learn how to calibrate the slicer. Follow the instructions laid out in sailfish manual.
Hello…
It PLA ive tested with Acetone and dident dissolve… Here is a new print… temp used 240 heat bed 55 using makerware 2.4 i had to sand some excessive material in some places to look like this.
In the picture showing the first layer, it looks like you’re not trammed proper. It’s very squished in the corner and then the stands are not touching further on the solid layer. What do your calibration cubes look like. I also see over extrusion. What is your filament measuring to actually?
hello… the filament is 1.73 and 1.75 measured with caliper… upladed some pics of the cube…
is that 100% infill? first issue is temp. it is way too hot. the severe deformation is a really good indicator of that. A good visual temp indicator is the prints luster. A more matte print indicates a low temp, while a glossy finish indicates higher temps. For PLA test cube, especially on your printer with no filament cooling, print two at a time on opposite sides of your build platform. This will allow each individual layer to cool before adding more molten material. This is very good tip while trying to print marvins. What is your first layer settings? I think the pics #5&6 are the bottom of the cube? you might be too far from the nozzle, but regardless there is too much plastic coming from the nozzle. I will grab a pic of my test cubes in a sec. I did photo my first layer of a print i started this morning. What your seeing is a skirt. This is an outline of the entire print job. Notice how the thickness is the same all around. just a little flattened by the nozzle. This is magenta PETG filament from Esun.
you asked about other filaments as well. Esun is a high quality manufacturer. If you have a microcenter in your area you can find inland brand, relabeled Esun, at 15$ Kg.
a small collection of cubes that were lying around, and three cubes top and bottom. natural is PC, blue is PETG, black is PLA
