Are you using rep1 options for cura and gpx? Did you clear your eeprom after installing sailfish? Can you describe your glass mod? Are you using any surface prep on your glass (aquanet)? Make sure everything you do follows rep1 or rep1 dual profiles. NO MATTER WHAT CTC SAYS YOU HAVE A REPLICATOR DUAL CLONE, not a rep2
Skip to main content
Also when you level, do you notice a right or left extruder grabbing more. For example when you feel the scratching and you gently try to rotate the paper does it seem to grip both extruded nozzles or just one? If just one nozzle is grabbing you may have to level your nozzles. Try to run the leveler 2 or three times in a row and see if it gets better. You said you had a glass plate so I’m not leaning towards a bent heat bed
yes CTC black case… about the leveling…im added to the table a 3mm glass to the table im using the right extruder… and ive already level the extruders using a jig found on thingiverse: Dualstrustion nozzle leveling Fixture by einer_designs - Thingiverse 28…
I get the two extruders to scratch the paper… both scratch at the left also at the right… but if i level at front… when i get the paper scratching… at the left or right is too tight… if l loosen it i get no scratch ate front center… Ive add the glass bed… to get a level surface to exclude a non level bed…
Did you try repeating the level test back to back a few times. I found this helped me lots.
Also brand of blue tape makes a difference. I found the 3m brand works best for me.
And a glue stick. Elmer’s. I get the purple one to easily tell if I covered everything correctly
So you also use glue stick for pla?! can you provide some printing settings?
thanks.
I’m using 3mm window glass with blue tape. Everything sticks very good PLA and ABS no problems there. Every time I use anything but maker bot desktop it won’t print. Just crashes or starts trying to print while not heated!
Oh yes glue sitck works great. I use stock aluminum bed, blue 3m painters tape and a Elmer’s glue stick applied during heat up. Pla I print 230 - 240 with heat bed of 50-60. BEFORE everyone freaks out, these are what work on the machine settings. Ctc printers have been known to report incorrect temps. So double check with a infrared non contact temp gauge. Also slow your first layer down to 20 - 40. Don’t print above 70 on any part. Machine will work higher for a few weeks but then you will have extruder issues later.
Speed is way too high for a .10mm print. Set it to 40 not 90. Print layer height has a comma instead of decimal ( not sure if that matters). And enable print bed heating set at 50
Speed is way too high for a .10mm print. Set it to 40 not 90. Print layer height has a comma instead of decimal ( not sure if that matters). And enable print bed heating set at 50
Not quite sure what u mean by clear eeprom. Yes I have sailfish v7.7… I’m using cura to slice then saving and using repg to generate X3G. Is that the right way??
When the print head crashes it usually indicates incorrect offsets. This can be caused by not resetting the eeprom when going from stock firmware to sailfish. http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-configuring.html#x35-910006.4.1 8 Or cura thinking that 0.0 is the back right corner of your printer. You should be concentrating on getting prints correct with makerware before cura. Cura was not made for our bots, and is really for advanced users. Adding so many variables for a new user is not recommended. Honestly, simplify3d(150$US) is hands down the best slicer, and has gpx built in.
I have been printing with makerware for about 8 or 9 months it works. Just wanted to try Cura.
Hey what’s up welcome to the CTC family lol. Me and my CTC have been to hell and back. We started from the bottom now we here. You’re printing pla so you should be below 205. 220 is so hot that heat creeps upward and softens the pla, making it too difficult for the extruder to feed it. You have ptfe tubes so you should probably print lower than 205. You probably don’t have a third fan for active cooling so you will have to go even lower. I suspect around 185-195. I went the all metal route so I don’t have those issues.
Hello…
this is the best print i got until now…using preheat settings of extruder 230… and bed 55, with makerware i can set temp. but the printer dosent acept the command… So i have use the printer menu, also tryed to disable the pre heating menu… but if i do that… the printer wont heat and trys to print…
Tried to print with lower temp but the result was bad the first line of filment wouldnt stick to the bed even if i use glue stick at 230 e works…
the print is not very good… but it was the best for now…
Are you still using the filament that came with the CTC? Or have you tried different brands? Does it smell sweet when printed or have a plastic smell?
By that I’m going to assume that you have not accurately measured your filament diameter, you have failed to properly calibrate your slicer, as per “the manual” http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/tuning-slicer-calibration.html#x27-670005.1 4 . I am not convinced that you preformed the factory reset as described , http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-configuring.html#x35-910006.4.1 3 .
I’ll bet it came with a roll of abs. Pla smells sweet. Your print looks like abs. Heat bed temp should be 110. I know the rolls are not marked and can come with abs or pla
Hello…
The filament that came with the printer is tagged PLA, how can i now if its pla or Abs?
thanks
Abs has a strong plastic smell when printed. Pla smells like a light corn syrup
ABS will dissolve in acetone, PLA will not. I have not heard any one else report mislabeled filament from CTC. Again from those pictures, this is clearly a user error issue, OP needs to learn how to calibrate the slicer. Follow the instructions laid out in sailfish manual.
