When the print head crashes it usually indicates incorrect offsets. This can be caused by not resetting the eeprom when going from stock firmware to sailfish. http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-configuring.html#x35-910006.4.1 8 Or cura thinking that 0.0 is the back right corner of your printer. You should be concentrating on getting prints correct with makerware before cura. Cura was not made for our bots, and is really for advanced users. Adding so many variables for a new user is not recommended. Honestly, simplify3d(150$US) is hands down the best slicer, and has gpx built in.
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I have been printing with makerware for about 8 or 9 months it works. Just wanted to try Cura.
Hey what’s up welcome to the CTC family lol. Me and my CTC have been to hell and back. We started from the bottom now we here. You’re printing pla so you should be below 205. 220 is so hot that heat creeps upward and softens the pla, making it too difficult for the extruder to feed it. You have ptfe tubes so you should probably print lower than 205. You probably don’t have a third fan for active cooling so you will have to go even lower. I suspect around 185-195. I went the all metal route so I don’t have those issues.
In the picture showing the first layer, it looks like you’re not trammed proper. It’s very squished in the corner and then the stands are not touching further on the solid layer. What do your calibration cubes look like. I also see over extrusion. What is your filament measuring to actually?
is that 100% infill? first issue is temp. it is way too hot. the severe deformation is a really good indicator of that. A good visual temp indicator is the prints luster. A more matte print indicates a low temp, while a glossy finish indicates higher temps. For PLA test cube, especially on your printer with no filament cooling, print two at a time on opposite sides of your build platform. This will allow each individual layer to cool before adding more molten material. This is very good tip while trying to print marvins. What is your first layer settings? I think the pics #5&6 are the bottom of the cube? you might be too far from the nozzle, but regardless there is too much plastic coming from the nozzle. I will grab a pic of my test cubes in a sec. I did photo my first layer of a print i started this morning. What your seeing is a skirt. This is an outline of the entire print job. Notice how the thickness is the same all around. just a little flattened by the nozzle. This is magenta PETG filament from Esun.
you asked about other filaments as well. Esun is a high quality manufacturer. If you have a microcenter in your area you can find inland brand, relabeled Esun, at 15$ Kg.
adam… thanks for you patience on trying to help me… the 6 pic is the bottom layer the first one… i dont know what im doing… i just opend replicatorG and made the print of the cube… the temp. was 230 bed 110…
If possible help me do all the steps… from the beginner…Calibration… feedrat… what to do and what sould i expect!!?
this is my first printer… so… i dont know what to look for… and how does this work… 
Thanks for the help…
Can you try to print the attached file? Rename the file to 3dbenchy.x3g 3d hubs will not allow me to upload sliced file. Print this and put up a picture. This was sliced with my profile. Lets start with something that’s known. Since you said you measured 1.73 and 1.75 I input 1.74 into filament diameter. For PLA my bot uses an extrusion multiplier of .9, I use S3d, so a small number is smaller. With makerware, I believe, the larger number pushes less plastic. I don’t use makerware so I will be at a loss on the specifics of the slicer. I use S3d to produce code for my three printers.
3DBenchy.pdf 8 (3.65 MB)
