CTC Problems or 3D newbie problem.

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T15:52:41.000Z

Also brand of blue tape makes a difference. I found the 3m brand works best for me.

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T15:54:32.000Z

And a glue stick. Elmer’s. I get the purple one to easily tell if I covered everything correctly

BlackMist · 2015-11-13T16:02:05.000Z

So you also use glue stick for pla?! can you provide some printing settings?
thanks.

Timothy0413 · 2015-11-13T16:03:04.000Z

I’m using 3mm window glass with blue tape. Everything sticks very good PLA and ABS no problems there. Every time I use anything but maker bot desktop it won’t print. Just crashes or starts trying to print while not heated!

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T16:03:41.000Z

I never thought about preheating the bed for leveling. Suppose your right though. Kinda a dumb mistake I guess lol

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T16:14:53.000Z

Oh yes glue sitck works great. I use stock aluminum bed, blue 3m painters tape and a Elmer’s glue stick applied during heat up. Pla I print 230 - 240 with heat bed of 50-60. BEFORE everyone freaks out, these are what work on the machine settings. Ctc printers have been known to report incorrect temps. So double check with a infrared non contact temp gauge. Also slow your first layer down to 20 - 40. Don’t print above 70 on any part. Machine will work higher for a few weeks but then you will have extruder issues later.

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T16:47:34.000Z

Speed is way too high for a .10mm print. Set it to 40 not 90. Print layer height has a comma instead of decimal ( not sure if that matters). And enable print bed heating set at 50

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T16:50:24.000Z

Speed is way too high for a .10mm print. Set it to 40 not 90. Print layer height has a comma instead of decimal ( not sure if that matters). And enable print bed heating set at 50

BlackMist · 2015-11-13T18:46:53.000Z

hello… the extruders are even ive used a jig that i got on thingiverse… its odd because if i level at the right or left i lose grip at front center… im going to try and level again… lets see if all goes well…

thanks.

Timothy0413 · 2015-11-13T19:47:00.000Z

Not quite sure what u mean by clear eeprom. Yes I have sailfish v7.7… I’m using cura to slice then saving and using repg to generate X3G. Is that the right way??

adamcooks · 2015-11-13T20:00:52.000Z

When the print head crashes it usually indicates incorrect offsets. This can be caused by not resetting the eeprom when going from stock firmware to sailfish. http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-configuring.html#x35-910006.4.1 Or cura thinking that 0.0 is the back right corner of your printer. You should be concentrating on getting prints correct with makerware before cura. Cura was not made for our bots, and is really for advanced users. Adding so many variables for a new user is not recommended. Honestly, simplify3d(150$US) is hands down the best slicer, and has gpx built in.

Timothy0413 · 2015-11-13T20:08:41.000Z

I have been printing with makerware for about 8 or 9 months it works. Just wanted to try Cura.

RobertPaul · 2015-11-13T20:22:38.000Z

Hey what’s up welcome to the CTC family lol. Me and my CTC have been to hell and back. We started from the bottom now we here. You’re printing pla so you should be below 205. 220 is so hot that heat creeps upward and softens the pla, making it too difficult for the extruder to feed it. You have ptfe tubes so you should probably print lower than 205. You probably don’t have a third fan for active cooling so you will have to go even lower. I suspect around 185-195. I went the all metal route so I don’t have those issues.

BlackMist · 2015-11-14T09:39:40.000Z

ive made some tests… i only can control temp. using the pre heating menu on the print… by soft. its impossible… the glue stick works… the pla stays on the bed… the leveling problem of the bed was the bed arms they weren’t even… But i still cant get good prints…

BlackMist · 2015-11-14T11:35:58.000Z

Hello…

this is the best print i got until now…using preheat settings of extruder 230… and bed 55, with makerware i can set temp. but the printer dosent acept the command… So i have use the printer menu, also tryed to disable the pre heating menu… but if i do that… the printer wont heat and trys to print…

Tried to print with lower temp but the result was bad the first line of filment wouldnt stick to the bed even if i use glue stick at 230 e works…

the print is not very good… but it was the best for now…

20151114_092844.jpg2560×1920 1.2 MB

20151114_091425.jpg2560×1920 1.57 MB

20151114_090820.jpg2560×1920 1.45 MB

20151114_091345.jpg2560×1920 1.26 MB

20151114_092117.jpg2560×1920 1.69 MB

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-14T15:02:33.000Z

Are you still using the filament that came with the CTC? Or have you tried different brands? Does it smell sweet when printed or have a plastic smell?

adamcooks · 2015-11-14T15:14:14.000Z

By that I’m going to assume that you have not accurately measured your filament diameter, you have failed to properly calibrate your slicer, as per “the manual” http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/tuning-slicer-calibration.html#x27-670005.1 . I am not convinced that you preformed the factory reset as described , http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-configuring.html#x35-910006.4.1 .

BlackMist · 2015-11-15T18:58:08.000Z

Hello… Im using the filament that came with the ctc printer… No i didnt use different brands. It smells plastic.

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-15T22:04:08.000Z

I’ll bet it came with a roll of abs. Pla smells sweet. Your print looks like abs. Heat bed temp should be 110. I know the rolls are not marked and can come with abs or pla

BlackMist · 2015-11-16T02:34:18.000Z

Hello…
The filament that came with the printer is tagged PLA, how can i now if its pla or Abs?

thanks