Speed is way too high for a .10mm print. Set it to 40 not 90. Print layer height has a comma instead of decimal ( not sure if that matters). And enable print bed heating set at 50
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Speed is way too high for a .10mm print. Set it to 40 not 90. Print layer height has a comma instead of decimal ( not sure if that matters). And enable print bed heating set at 50
Not quite sure what u mean by clear eeprom. Yes I have sailfish v7.7… I’m using cura to slice then saving and using repg to generate X3G. Is that the right way??
When the print head crashes it usually indicates incorrect offsets. This can be caused by not resetting the eeprom when going from stock firmware to sailfish. http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-configuring.html#x35-910006.4.1 8 Or cura thinking that 0.0 is the back right corner of your printer. You should be concentrating on getting prints correct with makerware before cura. Cura was not made for our bots, and is really for advanced users. Adding so many variables for a new user is not recommended. Honestly, simplify3d(150$US) is hands down the best slicer, and has gpx built in.
I have been printing with makerware for about 8 or 9 months it works. Just wanted to try Cura.
Hey what’s up welcome to the CTC family lol. Me and my CTC have been to hell and back. We started from the bottom now we here. You’re printing pla so you should be below 205. 220 is so hot that heat creeps upward and softens the pla, making it too difficult for the extruder to feed it. You have ptfe tubes so you should probably print lower than 205. You probably don’t have a third fan for active cooling so you will have to go even lower. I suspect around 185-195. I went the all metal route so I don’t have those issues.
Hello…
this is the best print i got until now…using preheat settings of extruder 230… and bed 55, with makerware i can set temp. but the printer dosent acept the command… So i have use the printer menu, also tryed to disable the pre heating menu… but if i do that… the printer wont heat and trys to print…
Tried to print with lower temp but the result was bad the first line of filment wouldnt stick to the bed even if i use glue stick at 230 e works…
the print is not very good… but it was the best for now…
Are you still using the filament that came with the CTC? Or have you tried different brands? Does it smell sweet when printed or have a plastic smell?
By that I’m going to assume that you have not accurately measured your filament diameter, you have failed to properly calibrate your slicer, as per “the manual” http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/tuning-slicer-calibration.html#x27-670005.1 4 . I am not convinced that you preformed the factory reset as described , http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-configuring.html#x35-910006.4.1 3 .
I’ll bet it came with a roll of abs. Pla smells sweet. Your print looks like abs. Heat bed temp should be 110. I know the rolls are not marked and can come with abs or pla
Hello…
The filament that came with the printer is tagged PLA, how can i now if its pla or Abs?
thanks
Abs has a strong plastic smell when printed. Pla smells like a light corn syrup
ABS will dissolve in acetone, PLA will not. I have not heard any one else report mislabeled filament from CTC. Again from those pictures, this is clearly a user error issue, OP needs to learn how to calibrate the slicer. Follow the instructions laid out in sailfish manual.
In the picture showing the first layer, it looks like you’re not trammed proper. It’s very squished in the corner and then the stands are not touching further on the solid layer. What do your calibration cubes look like. I also see over extrusion. What is your filament measuring to actually?
is that 100% infill? first issue is temp. it is way too hot. the severe deformation is a really good indicator of that. A good visual temp indicator is the prints luster. A more matte print indicates a low temp, while a glossy finish indicates higher temps. For PLA test cube, especially on your printer with no filament cooling, print two at a time on opposite sides of your build platform. This will allow each individual layer to cool before adding more molten material. This is very good tip while trying to print marvins. What is your first layer settings? I think the pics #5&6 are the bottom of the cube? you might be too far from the nozzle, but regardless there is too much plastic coming from the nozzle. I will grab a pic of my test cubes in a sec. I did photo my first layer of a print i started this morning. What your seeing is a skirt. This is an outline of the entire print job. Notice how the thickness is the same all around. just a little flattened by the nozzle. This is magenta PETG filament from Esun.
you asked about other filaments as well. Esun is a high quality manufacturer. If you have a microcenter in your area you can find inland brand, relabeled Esun, at 15$ Kg.
adam… thanks for you patience on trying to help me… the 6 pic is the bottom layer the first one… i dont know what im doing… i just opend replicatorG and made the print of the cube… the temp. was 230 bed 110…
If possible help me do all the steps… from the beginner…Calibration… feedrat… what to do and what sould i expect!!?
this is my first printer… so… i dont know what to look for… and how does this work… 
Thanks for the help…
Can you try to print the attached file? Rename the file to 3dbenchy.x3g 3d hubs will not allow me to upload sliced file. Print this and put up a picture. This was sliced with my profile. Lets start with something that’s known. Since you said you measured 1.73 and 1.75 I input 1.74 into filament diameter. For PLA my bot uses an extrusion multiplier of .9, I use S3d, so a small number is smaller. With makerware, I believe, the larger number pushes less plastic. I don’t use makerware so I will be at a loss on the specifics of the slicer. I use S3d to produce code for my three printers.
3DBenchy.pdf 8 (3.65 MB)
5 months later
How did you get your printer to print my one wont read the files on my SD card have used different sizes and used fat16 all that even different file types and names. Also how did you get your printer to work fine on your PC as mine disconnects my mouse and keyboard when plugged in and doesnt detect in device manager. Any help would be great as im new to this as well.
1 month later
Hi Adam
What extruder do you have on you flashforge / CTC / replicator 1 ?
and one more question do you use Simplify 3D with this printer ?
i struggle with that ctc printer from 2 weeks and still no good results with prints.
Is there any way to contact with you directly? i can’t find any prv message on this website.
6 months later
You need to download a file on 3d warehouse so you can convert files to an .stl then go onto you SD card and save it but change the .stl to .x3g and it should pick it up.
You need to download a file on 3d warehouse so you can convert files to an .stl then go onto you SD card and save it but change the .stl to .x3g and it should pick it up.