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Thanks for the suggestions people… I’ll have to see what’s available from my usual suppliers… what about HIPS ? Anyone used this other than as support material.
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That’s one solution… But personally I Use octoprint not only can you use a webcam to view you can also monitor temperature and stop it if necessary
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good advice above you can also use a glue stick or pva glue (just put a small dod in the middle of your bed and use something flat to spread a thin layer on the bed)
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Doesn’t look like that board is readily available, you could use one of those all in one ramps boards you find on eBay there about £35+ (make sure it comes with the driver boards)… but you’ll have to configure the board (marlin) you’ll need to know things like how many teeth the pullys have on the g…
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Not a problem
“just wondered if the. Orosilicate affected the print job.” Glass is used because it retains its shape when heated, helping to get that important 1st layer down. Borosilicate is so that it doesn’t shatter when heating and then cooling down again. -
I wouldn’t worry too much about it pryrex (brand name) or borosilicate is preferred … in the early days we just used any piece of glass could find usually just an old mirror. If you’ve managed to get a heat resistant glass that’s great, you could even put a layer of kapton / polyamide tape over the …
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Can’t you just print one ?
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It’s common for people to print props for cosplay… But your probably right to ask with all the worry over 3d printed guns
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Did I say “only used by”?! I said “commonly used by” big difference… besides when you see hospitals and even vets using 3d printing is usually done in titanium… so when I read the original post I thought it might be some 3d printed Piercing type jewellery.
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Well you could coat the 3D print in a good food epoxy that will seal the print then sterilise the outside of the print epoxy is pretty hard wearing, or you could use the smoothed print to make a cast of the part (depending on its complexity) and from that you could make the object from a different m…
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On the controller board there will be 5 driver boards you should be able to tell what they are as they will have little heat sinks on the top of them… each will have a trim pot on them which you can turn to increase our decrease the current … you’ll need to identify which one is for the correct moto…
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FDM type 3D printing is not considered for safe because of the layers and gaps associated with this type of printing there are some good resources online just look for 3d printing and “food safe” Is this for some sort of “body modification” (just guessing as autoclaves are commonly used by piercers …
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The threaded rods are on flexible couplers so it’s ok for them to move, however the two smooth rods should be perfectly straight… if one as you say is not then that’s most likley the culprit… If there both straight and your still having binding problems you may have to adjust the motor current
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Recycling unused/defective printed parts is a different story as it will be fairly uncontaminated and it would make sense to reuse that plastic… if there was some sort of place where you could take your unwanted prints to be recycled that would probably be a good thing as you know we all have a box …
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Sounds like your extruder motor is going in the wrong direction … unplug the cable and turn it round or change the direction in firmware
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I wouldn’t …I actually work in the recycling industry although we don’t specialise in plastic we do some… sorting plastic is not easy there are over 200 grades/types and it’s almost always contaminated with some other plastic and we can never shift plastic that’s been recycled already… apparently it…
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Looks like a clip for holding the bearing to the y axis / bed gantry ? You should be able to find a better design that’s compatible on thingiverse Prusa i3 LM8UU Y axis bearing mount by scarou - Thingiverse
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the print bed I’m not worried about … I can use my 200x200mm bed in the mean time I mainly only print fairly small things however I do want to do a couple of large pieces just to sit on my desk. I have already designed an Aluminium bed I just need to send it away to get it cut … and 400x400mm silic…
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that’s helpful information I like the look of your printer! The other option I was considering was using 2 Rods and 2 Ballscrews at opposite corners I guess it’s something I’ll have to play around with … the 10LUU bearings I have dont seem to have much play in them at all but I’ll see how it goes …
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I understand what you mean however that’s not what I’m planning to do, there will be 4 rod’s and one ballscrew, the 4 rods one at each corner and the ballscrew in the back centre. originally I was going to do 2 ballscrews at the sides and use a closed loop GT2 belt to link both of them to one steppe…
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All input is appreciated I’m going to stick with the 20mm v slot extrusions plenty of people are using them with no major issues, maybe for printer number 4 or a CNC I’ll look at guide rails. I’m not clear as to what you mean by “such a force” regarding the 10mm smooth rods… the rods will be verticl…
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Old pla on the bed can cause serious adhesion problems for abs! Remove all the tape from your bed, clean your bed thoroughly, pla doesn’t dissolve in acitone so give it a good scrub, once all the pla is totally removed, clean the bed with acitone! Apply kapton / polyamide tape (preferably) then diss…
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Hey … I’ve been watching those videos… My design is using 20mm v slot extrusions it’s basically a 500mm3 cube with an over and under belt config hence the inability to now use the sides as the belts run there. I should have a pic. (Found one) it’s just a quick build I’ll replace the plastic corner p…
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Have you checked the wiring for breaks with the high usage on the machine’s and the constant flexing of cables you could have a break in them?
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There are lots of free programs for doing 3d design, the ones I use are 123D design, sketchup and opened… but there are loads out there and I’m sure you will get lots of suggestions… it all depends on yourself and your ability to pick up whichever programming you decide to use… check out some YouTub…
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I did something similar but to keep the heat in rather than for filtration, you can usually find some pretty Large storage boxes in the supermarket, I found one that would fit over my i3 my psu and electronics are not attached to my printer so there’s no Problem there. I guess it would be simple e…
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I have no idea what the controller board that printer is, it may not use EPROM to store settings it might be a firmware adjustment that you may have to do.
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When I read that I thought to myself sounds like the printer is waiting for the bed or hotend to reach temperature. It’s easy enough to fix but your going to have to change your firmware settings… is it marlin? Basically you want to disable the heated bed in the firmware or change the minimum bed te…
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Did you configure marlin? You will need to set up your bed temp sensor, your hot end sensor, end stops (normally open/ normally closed?!), Homing direction, X Y and Z steps per mm, Z speed (default was almost always too fast). Then you will be ready to print.
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M92 should adjust the steps per mm Quick and dirty method for adjusting your extruder steps… issue a M501 command - note the number (e-steps) Take number devide it by 41 multiply by 100 to give you a more accurate number. (E-steps / 41) * 100 M92 E92 (replace 92 with actual number) M500 … to store t…
