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Dec 2016

I understand what you mean however that’s not what I’m planning to do, there will be 4 rod’s and one ballscrew, the 4 rods one at each corner and the ballscrew in the back centre. originally I was going to do 2 ballscrews at the sides and use a closed loop GT2 belt to link both of them to one stepper motor, but that’s no longer possible because of the over and under belt system.

I’ve already mentioned I’ll be using 3/4mm acrylic on the sides and top and bottom

the 4 rods will have 4 SCU10UU bearing blocks. I’ve added a picture of a crude mockup

I’ve got a similar set up to your build, see pics. 10mm rods with 2 lead screws. I started with the short bearings you’re planning on but found with a 400x400 bed there was far too much play. I could tilt the bed side to side quite easily, and that was using screws on both sides. Longer (10LUU) bearings fixed this. With one screw at the back I think you’ll get binding of the front bearings and jerky z moves. Also with a single ballscrew the weight of your build plate may turn the z motor when it isn’t powered.

that’s helpful information

I like the look of your printer!

The other option I was considering was using 2 Rods and 2 Ballscrews at opposite corners I guess it’s something I’ll have to play around with … the 10LUU bearings I have dont seem to have much play in them at all but I’ll see how it goes once I get it assembled … just waiting for parts.

Thanks, it’s all good fun building these things. Going bigger is definitely a learning curve. Designs for smaller printers don’t necessarily scale up very well. Have you sourced a print bed yet?

the print bed I’m not worried about … I can use my 200x200mm bed in the mean time I mainly only print fairly small things however I do want to do a couple of large pieces just to sit on my desk.

I have already designed an Aluminium bed I just need to send it away to get it cut … and 400x400mm silicone heaters are quite easy to get.

I like those guide rails you have on yours I think I might do the same … when budget allows … not really the best time of year for expendable cash when Christmas is just round the corner.

how is your printer for bed alignment … I’m currently using a P3Steel and because it’s all laser cut I just measured the distance with a calliper on all 4 corners of my bed and I pretty much never need to calibrate it. I’m hoping it’s going to be the same with this CoreXY (although I have already purchased an inductive sensor just in case)