Go to homepage
28 / 37
Jan 2017

Not my intent to hijack this thread…but while QIDI fans are listening :slight_smile: when I connect to my QIDI via USB to my it is not recognized - at all. Meaning nothing at all happens (no new device recognized by the PC). My only way to use the printer is via the SD card. No big deal, just wondering if I’m missing something?

Also is there a guide somewhere for the Sailfish to fine tune the calibration of the printer? Lots of menu options that I’m not finding explained anywhere. Thanks, and for whatever reason Google doesn’t seem to like me recently.

Try disabling your firewall and Windows Defender. Then install the software. If it shows, but will not connect then Go into your Control Panel, and select Printers and Devices. See if your printer is coming up there. If not try installing a new device. Once it installs the new device look at “Printers and Devcies” to see if it is there. You might have to go into properties to select the com port. My QIDI Tech 1 was a problem at first, but I received help here. My QIDI Tech 1 came up on “Com 3”. Use “Replicator Dual” as the printer selection. The slicer type is the replicator 50, or something with 50 in the selection. I do not have it on this system, because I am at the Phoenix College Library.

Roger

If you haven’t you will need to install the latest replicator G software to get the driver to load, maybe redo it anyway. Do not plug the printer in until after the driver installs. Should go to port 3 or higher.

Then see if repG will see the printer. Select printer type as replicator dual 1 (not 2). Don’t worry about other software until repg sees it.

If not work from there.

Use USB2 port not 3 to start. Short cable and no hubs, extension etc.

There is no real calibration you should need to do in Sailfish firmware. Here is the manual and it will tell you how to do the calibration cube etc. this is really everything you need to know about Sailfish.

http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/sailfish.pdf

Also do not flash the firmware without first contacting QIDI about it. I believe they use a modified version of Sailfish and a flash will brick the board.

Thanks @wirlybird and @RogerDS

Will give those a shot and see how it goes. I figured Windows 10 would at least “see” that something connected regardless of whether there were drivers or not. but it is as if the cable is bad. I will try your suggestions above and if no luck, another cable. If all else fails it is still perfectly usable via the button interface. Thanks again.

I don’t own a Qidi but I do sell and use Flashforge printers here in Australia. As no one has answered your question about the FFCP weight with any figures I’ll answer it for you. The weight you have for a creator pro is wrong as the Flashforge estimated shipping weight is ~21.5kg (~47lbs - this figure is from Flashforge). The printer weight is ~14.8 kg ( ~32.6 lbs this figure is from Flashforge also).

Best of luck with your printer purchase. Flashforge support is generally great and they’re reliable too (so you probably won’t need it), having said that I have no experience with Qidi (maybe they’re good too?).

Merry Christmas to you and your father

I wish the hood was taller. The feed tubes and cable rub and push hard on the upper lip in the back. If you shorten the tubes so they don’t rub then they are really starting to stretch on bigger prints. I usually do not engage the rear clips on the corners but let them sit up on top to gain a little more clearance but then have to tape things up to fill the gaps.

8 days later

Flashforge released a redesigned model in 2016. It’s probably the nicest makerbot clone out there now. They got rid of the laser cut hood that you assemble in favor of a solid formed hood. They also added an active cooling fan for PLA printing. Full disclosure I’m a US reseller but if you want to buy one through me I can help you guys get into the 3D printing world… cost effectivly https://www.makerrx.com 8

The XY design is more stable than the i3, usually. But regarding the MK2 i3, the only advantage buying directly from Prusa at that price is it’s already built. It’s 3D printed parts along with off-the-shelf parts. The design is excellent. But it’s an open-sourced printer that anyone can download, print out and build. I’m not knocking the printer. It’s an awesome printer and I don’t have to own one to know. But there’s no difference in it and a $400 kit of the exact same printer bought elsewhere. I know that doesn’t apply for the OP since they are looking for an out-the-box solution. I just wanted to reply regarding it being the best printer you can buy today only because it’s coming directly from Prusa himself.

“But there’s no difference in it and a $400 kit of the exact same printer bought elsewhere.”

Some of this is not really accurate. Yes, you could download and build and buy all of the parts etc. provided you already have a printer and know exactly the part to get. Certainly doable but at what cost?

Where it changes a little is that the firmware is modified and constantly being improved for the printer specific. Also drivers, a version of Slic3r etc. are made specifically for the MK2. This is a big advantage over the clone kits but you do pay more. Not for everyone though.

I probably didn’t get my point across well and shouldn’t have said anything at all LOL because the OP needed an out of the box solution, not a kit… again, not putting down the MK2 at all… it’s a pretty awesome printer. I was just pointing to the comment that the MK2 was one of the best printers available solely because it was assembled by the guy that designed it. If someone else were to put together the same kit, using the same printed files, same firmware, etc. it should be the same printer. There’s a premium included in the price when just because you’re buying directly from Prusa.

I was just making a comparison (failed at it lol), not at all putting down Prusa or the machine itself. If cost wasn’t an issue, I would buy an assembled unit directly from Prusa in a minute just for the ease of being able to start using it immediately.

6 months later
1 month later

Just in case you haven’t tried it yet, go into the Utilities menu and then select the option near the very bottom of the menu to reset the printer to factory defaults.

If that doesn’t do it, it must be something with the thermocouple connection on the systemboard. A quick check on Youtube shows a few people having that exact problem, and all of them traced it back to the connection on the board.

On the Qidi Tech 1, the thermocouple leads attach to a separate two post quick disconnect terminal strip that in turn plugs into the logic board. It looks like the Makerbot uses a spring actuated terminal strip instead. Obviously I don’t have your printer in front of me to confirm this, but I’d bet money that the terminal strip isn’t putting enough pressure on the leads given how thin the leads are. If you have a Fluke meter that can read temperature, you can test the thermocouple to rule it out 100% (that’s what I did in my case). After that, strip off some of the insulation on the thermocouple leads that go to the logic board (say an inch), and fold it over two times to increase its width, then tin it so it doesn’t fray and gives you the best possible connection.

If that works then it’s definitely a flakey spring terminal strip. I have some of those inside a Hensel Porty light head and it gives me headaches every now and then. In theory those things work fine, in practice the connection is only as good as the spring inside the terminal strip.

OK I’m a numbnut. I forgot you have a Flashforge. :smiley:

You have the same quick disconnects as the Qidi Tech 1. Did your leads come with a terminal connector on the end that’s crimped on? If so, don’t strip it off. TIN THAT CONNECTOR! :smiley: Also, take the quick disconnect off from the logic board and plug it back in a few times to break up any corrosion. Don’t do like they do in this video and replace the leads while it’s still attached to the logic board.

Take the connector off, tin the crimped on leads on the thermocouple, then screw them back into the quick disconnect TIGHTLY. Plug it back in and you should be good to go.