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Dec 2016

Not my intent to hijack this thread…but while QIDI fans are listening :slight_smile: when I connect to my QIDI via USB to my it is not recognized - at all. Meaning nothing at all happens (no new device recognized by the PC). My only way to use the printer is via the SD card. No big deal, just wondering if I’m missing something?

Also is there a guide somewhere for the Sailfish to fine tune the calibration of the printer? Lots of menu options that I’m not finding explained anywhere. Thanks, and for whatever reason Google doesn’t seem to like me recently.

Try disabling your firewall and Windows Defender. Then install the software. If it shows, but will not connect then Go into your Control Panel, and select Printers and Devices. See if your printer is coming up there. If not try installing a new device. Once it installs the new device look at “Printers and Devcies” to see if it is there. You might have to go into properties to select the com port. My QIDI Tech 1 was a problem at first, but I received help here. My QIDI Tech 1 came up on “Com 3”. Use “Replicator Dual” as the printer selection. The slicer type is the replicator 50, or something with 50 in the selection. I do not have it on this system, because I am at the Phoenix College Library.

Roger

If you haven’t you will need to install the latest replicator G software to get the driver to load, maybe redo it anyway. Do not plug the printer in until after the driver installs. Should go to port 3 or higher.

Then see if repG will see the printer. Select printer type as replicator dual 1 (not 2). Don’t worry about other software until repg sees it.

If not work from there.

Use USB2 port not 3 to start. Short cable and no hubs, extension etc.

There is no real calibration you should need to do in Sailfish firmware. Here is the manual and it will tell you how to do the calibration cube etc. this is really everything you need to know about Sailfish.

http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/sailfish.pdf

Also do not flash the firmware without first contacting QIDI about it. I believe they use a modified version of Sailfish and a flash will brick the board.

Thanks @wirlybird and @RogerDS

Will give those a shot and see how it goes. I figured Windows 10 would at least “see” that something connected regardless of whether there were drivers or not. but it is as if the cable is bad. I will try your suggestions above and if no luck, another cable. If all else fails it is still perfectly usable via the button interface. Thanks again.

I don’t own a Qidi but I do sell and use Flashforge printers here in Australia. As no one has answered your question about the FFCP weight with any figures I’ll answer it for you. The weight you have for a creator pro is wrong as the Flashforge estimated shipping weight is ~21.5kg (~47lbs - this figure is from Flashforge). The printer weight is ~14.8 kg ( ~32.6 lbs this figure is from Flashforge also).

Best of luck with your printer purchase. Flashforge support is generally great and they’re reliable too (so you probably won’t need it), having said that I have no experience with Qidi (maybe they’re good too?).

Merry Christmas to you and your father

8 days later
6 months later
1 month later

This is probably an obvious question, but what is re-tinning? I have a Flashforge Creator Pro and I have had the same problem since a month and a half after I got my machine (coincidentally after the warranty ran out.) Aftertaking apart the machine and putting it back together several times and checking the connections, I started working with Flashforge’s support team. First they had me replace the thermocoupler. When that didn’t work, I replaced the heating cartridge. Next I ordered an entire brand new extruder set (over $300) and still had the same message and no working printer. The company has finally admitted defeat and is sending me a new motherboard. It is August and I have been unable to use my 3D printer since the beginning of May. In the meantime, I also have a Flashforge Finder which I like a whole lot better than the Creator Pro. However, the beginning of July I needed a new PTFE tube which is a $3 part. I decided to order two of them. The shipping was $17! After waiting for about three weeks for the part to arrive, I received a message stating that the part was backordered and it would be a few more weeks before I received it. In the meantime, they had already charged my PayPal account for the parts! In addition, there is nowhere else I can get the part. Therefore, I have two Flashforge printers sitting in my house and I haven’t been able to print for over a month.

I came on here to see if Qidi was any better, and it doesn’t sound like it. I must warn you all, though, that Flashforge is NOT the way to go. They will break down or at the very least need part maintenance. Sometimes the parts can be found on Amazon. However, if they cannot, you can be stuck with a non-working printer for months!!! In addition, the shipping is outrageous! They send everything UPS and the shipping cost is sometimes higher than the cost of the parts. They do not take into consideration that you are ordering more than one part, either. They add a shipping cost to each part.

Tinning is applying solder with a soldering iron to the ends of the electrical connections. Here’s a video that shows what I’m talking about.

Qidi support is actually REALLY good. They monitor web forums and reach out to people having issues.

What problem are you having exactly?

I have sold five of these and still can’t can’t their reseller deals LOL how did you do it lol

I have been receiving the following messages after trying quite a few repairs.

Turn on machine: Sailfish Creator Pro – Heater Special – ATmega 2560 16/07/05 Sailfish v7.8 r0f02f

That message flashes for just a second then second message:

Tool 0 Failure! Temperature reads are failing. Check wiring.

Then normal screen appears:

FF Creator Pro

-Print from SD

Preheat

Utilities

When I choose utilities, then load filament, I get this message:

My temperature was changed externally. Reselect filament menu to try again.

Repairs I have made:

1. Replaced thermocouple - no change

2. Replaced heating cartridge - no change

3. Replaced entire extruder set - no change

Just in case you haven’t tried it yet, go into the Utilities menu and then select the option near the very bottom of the menu to reset the printer to factory defaults.

If that doesn’t do it, it must be something with the thermocouple connection on the systemboard. A quick check on Youtube shows a few people having that exact problem, and all of them traced it back to the connection on the board.

On the Qidi Tech 1, the thermocouple leads attach to a separate two post quick disconnect terminal strip that in turn plugs into the logic board. It looks like the Makerbot uses a spring actuated terminal strip instead. Obviously I don’t have your printer in front of me to confirm this, but I’d bet money that the terminal strip isn’t putting enough pressure on the leads given how thin the leads are. If you have a Fluke meter that can read temperature, you can test the thermocouple to rule it out 100% (that’s what I did in my case). After that, strip off some of the insulation on the thermocouple leads that go to the logic board (say an inch), and fold it over two times to increase its width, then tin it so it doesn’t fray and gives you the best possible connection.

If that works then it’s definitely a flakey spring terminal strip. I have some of those inside a Hensel Porty light head and it gives me headaches every now and then. In theory those things work fine, in practice the connection is only as good as the spring inside the terminal strip.

OK I’m a numbnut. I forgot you have a Flashforge. :smiley:

You have the same quick disconnects as the Qidi Tech 1. Did your leads come with a terminal connector on the end that’s crimped on? If so, don’t strip it off. TIN THAT CONNECTOR! :smiley: Also, take the quick disconnect off from the logic board and plug it back in a few times to break up any corrosion. Don’t do like they do in this video and replace the leads while it’s still attached to the logic board.

Take the connector off, tin the crimped on leads on the thermocouple, then screw them back into the quick disconnect TIGHTLY. Plug it back in and you should be good to go.