The tips for direct replacement need to be MK10 type. The matter hacker tips will not fit. With respect to the micro Swiss all metal upgrade kit, sounds good but I hear you can no longer print TPU filament because it is the most sensitive to “heat creep” and gets jammed. TPU tends to need the Teflon sleeve present in the stock setup. Mirror or window pane glass along with hairspray works great but I personally don’t mess with binding clips or corner printed brackets as this gives a place for the print head to crash into. Instead I place a small piece of kapton tape front and back center if the aluminum print bed, place a single small drop of CA at each point and place the clean glass on that. This prevents the glass from shifting at all during the print and is cleanly removable if needed. Don’t use more CA than that or you will constrain the glass from expanding when it gets hot and it will break, otherwise works a treat. I also use Simplify 3D, more control and better overall prints. Does cost $$.
A z shim should not be needed? Just wind down the bed leveling adjustments to account for the glass. Works well on my Ultra.
Ultimately I want to print other materials that are more abrasive to the nozzles. So now I have spares but probably won’t install them anytime soon since I have a lot to learn with PLA, ABS and PVA before trying anything else.
Leveling the bed was somewhat consuming with the manual method yes but I must be fairly close looking at the printed box.
Interesting progression there. I have the stock bed and covering they provided but I ran the temps way hotter than probably needed. The extruder was set to 220 and the bed to 110. Stuck fine and once a little cool came off fairly easily with a razor blade. Not sure I’d recommend the razor blade thing for everyone you have to be careful. Putty knife worked fine but the razor blade let me remove the piece with the support lattice still attached as seen in the photo end of video.
Single finger salute, nice. I might have to have one of those for my desk.
Oh and I had a look back at the pdf manual and they do mention installing the duct so my bad for missing that one originally.
Thanks! I see the part and grabbed it for my next project once I figure out the new software which I am actually looking forward to. Looks like the guide tubes will stay better supported also. I put a single wrap of tape around mine so they would stay in the hole.
I see you are also into quads, FPV etc. Maybe I can send you one of my little 5V FPV cams as a thank-you for your efforts and contributions here? It’s the same camera I used on all of our micro FPV machines. After 3 years or so I no longer build/sell my micro FPV machines but still have stock on some various parts. Cams, brushless motors, 200mw vtx’s, CL antennas etc.
Let me know.
DB
Bed at 60 for PLA, 65 for PETg, 100 for ABS. The fiver texture (if PLA) is simple because the plastic was not cooled and solidified yet before the next layer was printed; cause things to move and printing like this; hence the need for the cooling fan. This is especial true as you transition into a smaller printed area because the entire layer completes faster and moves to the next layer because there is less to print.
No cooling on ABS.
Support material removal: Hand tools like pliers, picks, small hand drill bits for pockets. Also set Simplify3d to print supports every two layers so they are weaker and easier to brake out. Change the pattern every couple layers also so they don’t fall over on really high support prints (45,45,45,-45,-45,-45)
Love flying FPV and quads. Let’s taggup. IM me through thingiverse and we will exchange information. Thanks
