Oh no! If the build plate is just glass, I cut my own pretty easily from glass at Home Depot / Lowes and a glass cutter (also found at the same place). Just use the cutter to score along the line to cut, put the scored line at the edge of a table and then a quick, even snap will get a clean break.
Another option is to go to a local glass shop. They will cut a pane for you and it won’t cost too much. I couldn’t manage to cut a 18"x18" sheet for my larger printer on my own without cracking it and went to a glass shop.
Either of those options should get you a new glass print bed (assuming you’re on glass) without having to wait for shipping.
This is a great idea ^^ The only issue is you would have to buy the pcb to heat the bed. Probably all together cheaper than XYZ if unless you have a valid warranty. EBay would be another good place to check, I have seen them listed $10-15 cheaper than buying from XYZ.
1 Like
Also a good idea and the Buildtak might be an upgrade. Of course you could go grab some glass to hold you over and also order some Buildtak.
i use multiple single edge razor blades, make sure the bed and part are cold, or else you will warp the edges/corners, start a razor blade in each corner and gently tap them around the print to loosen it. Usually it will just pop off, if it still doesnt, i take the handle of a screw driver and tap it (with some force) on each side till it pops off. I do this all the time, cause i would rather my completed print be difficult to remove, than it coming loose halfway through a 12 hour print and having a pile of filament laying there.
1 Like
n23d
25
I used copper tape for stained glass to build my own heater for an oversized print bed on my Robo3D. I figured out how long the copper tape needed to be to match the resistance of the standard heater then spaced the strips so they covered the whole plate. Once installed on the glass they were soldered together and covered with capton tape to prevent damage and shorts. The bed heats quicker than the production bed. Here is a picture of the bed while printing a new customized seatback for my grandsons Big Wheel.
1 Like
That’s nice, is that the original Robo R1?
1 Like
That’s awesome – you should post an instructable or something.
n23d
28
It was a kickstarter machine. After breaking my build plate I did a Y axis upgrade and decided to extend the bed. Used a dial indicator and got the Bed flatness to +/- 0.1 mm over whole surface . I played with adding the auto level and found that the head deflected the bed so much that auto level would not work well. So I came up with a new Z switch mount that works great. You can see it on the left. I trapped the Z axis Nuts with an antirotation follower and allow them to float. The switch senses off the floating nut so no more problems with the nuts loosing location if the head hangs up on a blob clinging to the extruder. The Z limit switch always trips. Added a knob to the set screw making it very easy to adjust. Been happy with how it works and I can make some fairly large stuff in one piece.
I can tell you have been doing some playing just by the pictures! That’s amazing!
1 Like
I have a Borosilicate glass and i work with closed hot bed. When i work with PLA, i use CUBE glue. When the work have finished, i removed the glass from 3d printer and remove the piece with water on the faucet.
Se il piano riscaldato è asportabile e hai usato lacca per capelli per l’adesione del primo layer immergilo in acqua calda e prova ad usare una spatola per colori ad olio per infilarti sotto il primo layer. Puoi provare anche con piano freddo a dare dei colpetti su di uno spigolo ed infilare una spatola tra il vetro e la stampa
devi usare vetro borosilicato spessore 4 mm che resiste bene agli sbalzi termici ed è più robusto
We use ABS juice ( ABS in Acetone) to make sure the print sticks - and then spray with Window cleaner to free the print - works perfectly every time.
I shoot a little canned air upside down on stuck prints and they pop right off.
