I used copper tape for stained glass to build my own heater for an oversized print bed on my Robo3D. I figured out how long the copper tape needed to be to match the resistance of the standard heater then spaced the strips so they covered the whole plate. Once installed on the glass they were soldered together and covered with capton tape to prevent damage and shorts. The bed heats quicker than the production bed. Here is a picture of the bed while printing a new customized seatback for my grandsons Big Wheel.
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That’s nice, is that the original Robo R1?
It was a kickstarter machine. After breaking my build plate I did a Y axis upgrade and decided to extend the bed. Used a dial indicator and got the Bed flatness to +/- 0.1 mm over whole surface . I played with adding the auto level and found that the head deflected the bed so much that auto level would not work well. So I came up with a new Z switch mount that works great. You can see it on the left. I trapped the Z axis Nuts with an antirotation follower and allow them to float. The switch senses off the floating nut so no more problems with the nuts loosing location if the head hangs up on a blob clinging to the extruder. The Z limit switch always trips. Added a knob to the set screw making it very easy to adjust. Been happy with how it works and I can make some fairly large stuff in one piece.
I can tell you have been doing some playing just by the pictures! That’s amazing!
I have a Borosilicate glass and i work with closed hot bed. When i work with PLA, i use CUBE glue. When the work have finished, i removed the glass from 3d printer and remove the piece with water on the faucet.
Se il piano riscaldato è asportabile e hai usato lacca per capelli per l’adesione del primo layer immergilo in acqua calda e prova ad usare una spatola per colori ad olio per infilarti sotto il primo layer. Puoi provare anche con piano freddo a dare dei colpetti su di uno spigolo ed infilare una spatola tra il vetro e la stampa
devi usare vetro borosilicato spessore 4 mm che resiste bene agli sbalzi termici ed è più robusto
We use ABS juice ( ABS in Acetone) to make sure the print sticks - and then spray with Window cleaner to free the print - works perfectly every time.
2 years later
I shoot a little canned air upside down on stuck prints and they pop right off.