Plastic stuck to printing platform

[3dpGeek]

That’s a good idea!

[UniquePrints]

Lol thanks, it works like a charm and your print gets a hint of minty goodness

[knabo]

For ABS you normally hear a pop as the plate cools, so far I have not had any problem removing from a cool plate. I print on glass with glue and I have found if I use too much glue it sticks very hard. My favorite spatula for removing prints is: http://amzn.to/1WpHlwb

For PLA you don’t get the nice pop. Instead, I heat the bed to 80 degrees and this loosens the print enough to get the spatula under. Just be careful not to deform the print, the PLA will be soft.

[n23d]

I use a scraper with a single edged razor blade in it.Works best on a cold build plate. Start at a corner. I have wondered if using a can of air for dusting keyboards could be used to cool the bed below room temp to get a release. Never had to try it just a thought.

[MCdesigns]

I use very thin feeler gauges to slide under the print. I then slide progressively larger ones under the same corner until the Gap is big enough to fit my plastic spatula and pray up on it.

[SOC3D]

I’m proud to be the only one who uses a hammer on prints

[3dpGeek]

Lol mallet or hammer?

[SOC3D]

Depends on the print. Really it’s just Newtonian physics. Taking a print off the bed is like pulling a table cloth out from under a fully set table. With the right amount of force you can make that print move away from the bed without the bed absorbing much force. When the force is properly placed between the part and the bed you don’t damage either.

[3DukeEng]

If you have a removable bed pla prints pop themselves off after 2 minutes in the freezer, I use a use a very particular hairspray for bed adhesion with PLA.

As for abs, kapton tape is the way to go, a careful knock with a rubber hammer or if you can ease a chisel infer a corner that works wonders too.

Some good ideas on here I will have to try feeler gauges and dental floss

[siriusbizzy]

Just use this, I was skeptic at first but it turns out to be an excellent tool because the edges have a varying thickness:

http://shop.turtlecreations.nl/3DPrinters/3DPrinterAccesoires/buildtak\_spatula

[alxjjohnson]

It didn’t end well.

[3dpGeek]

Oooooh.

When I chipped my 2.0 I just bought Buildtak and have not had a problem. Its just a bandaid lol

[marcuswu]

Oh no! If the build plate is just glass, I cut my own pretty easily from glass at Home Depot / Lowes and a glass cutter (also found at the same place). Just use the cutter to score along the line to cut, put the scored line at the edge of a table and then a quick, even snap will get a clean break.

Another option is to go to a local glass shop. They will cut a pane for you and it won’t cost too much. I couldn’t manage to cut a 18"x18" sheet for my larger printer on my own without cracking it and went to a glass shop.

Either of those options should get you a new glass print bed (assuming you’re on glass) without having to wait for shipping.

[3dpGeek]

This is a great idea ^^ The only issue is you would have to buy the pcb to heat the bed. Probably all together cheaper than XYZ if unless you have a valid warranty. EBay would be another good place to check, I have seen them listed $10-15 cheaper than buying from XYZ.

[marcuswu]

Also a good idea and the Buildtak might be an upgrade. Of course you could go grab some glass to hold you over and also order some Buildtak.

[kissfan4]

i use multiple single edge razor blades, make sure the bed and part are cold, or else you will warp the edges/corners, start a razor blade in each corner and gently tap them around the print to loosen it. Usually it will just pop off, if it still doesnt, i take the handle of a screw driver and tap it (with some force) on each side till it pops off. I do this all the time, cause i would rather my completed print be difficult to remove, than it coming loose halfway through a 12 hour print and having a pile of filament laying there.

[n23d]

I used copper tape for stained glass to build my own heater for an oversized print bed on my Robo3D. I figured out how long the copper tape needed to be to match the resistance of the standard heater then spaced the strips so they covered the whole plate. Once installed on the glass they were soldered together and covered with capton tape to prevent damage and shorts. The bed heats quicker than the production bed. Here is a picture of the bed while printing a new customized seatback for my grandsons Big Wheel.

[3dpGeek]

That’s nice, is that the original Robo R1?

[marcuswu]

That’s awesome – you should post an instructable or something.

[n23d]

It was a kickstarter machine. After breaking my build plate I did a Y axis upgrade and decided to extend the bed. Used a dial indicator and got the Bed flatness to +/- 0.1 mm over whole surface . I played with adding the auto level and found that the head deflected the bed so much that auto level would not work well. So I came up with a new Z switch mount that works great. You can see it on the left. I trapped the Z axis Nuts with an antirotation follower and allow them to float. The switch senses off the floating nut so no more problems with the nuts loosing location if the head hangs up on a blob clinging to the extruder. The Z limit switch always trips. Added a knob to the set screw making it very easy to adjust. Been happy with how it works and I can make some fairly large stuff in one piece.