Hey community,
with the attached pictures, you’ll see my problem: bad connection from the support structures to the actual print. The complete print got lost and i found it in the resin as a remaining flat layer crumbled on the bottom of the tank.
I used 0,8 mm (thick) points for the structures, so acutally enough surface for connectivity. I used a completetly new resin (black of formlabs). I had exactly the same issue lately with clear resin.
Do you have any idea?
Potentially, i assume inhomogenities in the resin. But i mixed it well. Also rests of isopropyl might be an answer, but i carefully wash of the base plate, before using it again…
Appreciate your comments!
Have a good weekend. BR,
Florian
1 Like
Hey guys,
now I have this result after readjusting the support structures…
Florian
Ara
3
Hi Florian, please attach a screen shot of the Preform image or the .form file. Thank you, Ara
Hi Florian,
have you tried to move your part to a different position of your build platform?
Let me know if you have the same results…
Best,
Luke
Hey, here are some pics from preform.
@TheSignStudio: yes, its definitvely not the position. the other picture with two parts on it changed the position of the failed print and it failed there too…
Ok,
thanks for the new images! It’s now much clearer…
It’s always better to not have an object in witch the first layer is completely flat, It’s very dangerous!
Try and rotate the object a bit… have you tried auto-orient?
Best.
Luke
Ara
7
Yes, do not orient flat surfaces to be parallel to the table. Also, pour your resin through a filter after each print.
-Ara
2 Likes
Hei Florian,
We used to have the same problem with our Form 1. Two out of three prints were a fail and the results we had were similar to what I can see in your pictures.
The problem went away after we sent the print to be upgraded. The upgrade also includes a recalibration and that is where I suspect the problem lies. Try looking through the calibration information on their website, they also have an interesting video tutorial that I cannot find right now.
Luck,
ina
I have had this same problem as well. I was printing a larger piece and it got through 75 percent and the rest was on the bottom of tray. I added more supports and it printed perfect after that. Hope this helps. Good luck!
n23d
10
All the comments are great. Orient the part so the longest diagonal through the part is nearly perpendicular to the build platform. Place the tallest portion of the print closest to the hinge. View the layers and try and orient the part so that no section volumes are closed. Closed volumes cause suction that can punch holes in walls and cause prints to fail. If you must have closed volumes try and minimize the projected area of them and/or add a vent hole or split the part to eliminate them. Orient the part so that a volume closes last. In other words If you have a cup shape print it open end towards the build platform.
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One additional thing about vent holes is that they need to be rather large. I had a couple prints fail on me with a 2mm diameter vent hole, the resin is just too thick to freely float trough a 2mm hole. I’m now making vent holes at least 4mm diameter and haven’t had a problem with them.
Also, if you have prints failing like this, check the tank bottom for clouding - if it’s clouded you can throw away the tank 
From what I have gathered from the responses here, and your research, you should probably have some successful prints already.
One thing I have noticed is that sometimes I see print failures when, during the Form 1/1+ printing process, there was a significant temperature change.
I try to print during the day when temperatures can be held more constant, warmer than cooler.
Also, as Im sir you have read already, keep those internal mirrors very clear (minimal dust). I have had issues with resin tanks, both the hard plastic and the PDMS layer, being distorted that caused some really strange failures.
Occasionally, I have to set time aside to think deeply about the motion of the peeling process and how it relates to the support structures and part orientation.
It seems like, if you can, keep as much of the part as continuous layers, not contiguous, as I have seen some distortion there too. There is a lot to learn about how to get these Form 1/1+ printers to produce magically good parts. We are all learning, even the crew at FormLabs is learning about this “tech-magical” (not a real word) process. Good luck!
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I almost forgot to add, orient your parts at angle, if possible, to the bold platform.
Several planar/prismatic formed parts seem to distort if planer surface features are oriented parallel to the build surface.
I have seen this distortion ion parts during the print process and post curing too.
My experience with the Objet printers output seems to follow this “warping” distortion as well, especially when parts are left in the sun for long periods of time.
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Florian, you need to rotate the part so that there are no big surfaces at the beginning of a print.
The principle how a Form 1 works is that the laser is curing the resin on the bottom surface of the tank.
The platform is peeling the layers away from that surface. So you can imagine that a bigger area at the beginning is more difficult to peel.
Just have a look to this tutorial http://formlabs.com/support/guide/prepare/model-orientation/
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Hey Guys, Thank you very much for your advice! I just started a new print considering you suggestions. I’ll give you an update tomorrow as soon as the print finishes.
Thanks for your insight. At least the temperature thing i can rule out, since we monitor this tediously. Even FDM printers are really sensitive to temperature cahnges.
Actually I bought a new tank for this exact reason. Sadly they’re quite expensive…
Done that, printing right now!
Your part orientation is all wrong and likely the only problem.
You cant print parallel to the build platform.
Angle everything!
Oh sorry I couldn’t see all the replies to your post until after I posted and it wont let me remove or edit my post…
