Ok,
thanks for the new images! It’s now much clearer…
It’s always better to not have an object in witch the first layer is completely flat, It’s very dangerous!
Try and rotate the object a bit… have you tried auto-orient?
Best.
Luke
Ara
March 9, 2015, 1:54pm
7
Yes, do not orient flat surfaces to be parallel to the table. Also, pour your resin through a filter after each print.
-Ara
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Hei Florian,
We used to have the same problem with our Form 1. Two out of three prints were a fail and the results we had were similar to what I can see in your pictures.
The problem went away after we sent the print to be upgraded. The upgrade also includes a recalibration and that is where I suspect the problem lies. Try looking through the calibration information on their website, they also have an interesting video tutorial that I cannot find right now.
Luck,
ina
I have had this same problem as well. I was printing a larger piece and it got through 75 percent and the rest was on the bottom of tray. I added more supports and it printed perfect after that. Hope this helps. Good luck!
n23d
March 9, 2015, 3:59pm
10
All the comments are great. Orient the part so the longest diagonal through the part is nearly perpendicular to the build platform. Place the tallest portion of the print closest to the hinge. View the layers and try and orient the part so that no section volumes are closed. Closed volumes cause suction that can punch holes in walls and cause prints to fail. If you must have closed volumes try and minimize the projected area of them and/or add a vent hole or split the part to eliminate them. Orient the part so that a volume closes last. In other words If you have a cup shape print it open end towards the build platform.
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One additional thing about vent holes is that they need to be rather large. I had a couple prints fail on me with a 2mm diameter vent hole, the resin is just too thick to freely float trough a 2mm hole. I’m now making vent holes at least 4mm diameter and haven’t had a problem with them.
Also, if you have prints failing like this, check the tank bottom for clouding - if it’s clouded you can throw away the tank
From what I have gathered from the responses here, and your research, you should probably have some successful prints already.
Occasionally, I have to set time aside to think deeply about the motion of the peeling process and how it relates to the support structures and part orientation.
It seems like, if you can, keep as much of the part as continuous layers, not contiguous, as I have seen some distortion there too. There is a lot to learn about how to get these Form 1/1+ printers to produce magically good parts. We are all learning, even the crew at FormLabs is learning about this “tech-magical” (not a real word) process. Good luck!
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I almost forgot to add, orient your parts at angle, if possible, to the bold platform.
My experience with the Objet printers output seems to follow this “warping” distortion as well, especially when parts are left in the sun for long periods of time.
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Florian, you need to rotate the part so that there are no big surfaces at the beginning of a print.
The principle how a Form 1 works is that the laser is curing the resin on the bottom surface of the tank.
The platform is peeling the layers away from that surface. So you can imagine that a bigger area at the beginning is more difficult to peel.
Just have a look to this tutorial http://formlabs.com/support/guide/prepare/model-orientation/
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Hey Guys, Thank you very much for your advice! I just started a new print considering you suggestions. I’ll give you an update tomorrow as soon as the print finishes.
Thanks for your insight. At least the temperature thing i can rule out, since we monitor this tediously. Even FDM printers are really sensitive to temperature cahnges.
Actually I bought a new tank for this exact reason. Sadly they’re quite expensive…
Done that, printing right now!
Your part orientation is all wrong and likely the only problem.
You cant print parallel to the build platform.
Angle everything!
Oh sorry I couldn’t see all the replies to your post until after I posted and it wont let me remove or edit my post…
Hey folks, tried different orrientations no luck at all…
Check:
-Scroll through the layers in preform, do they all look right? Sometimes bad STL’s can cause Preform to show the model, but it doesn’t slice it properly
-Check your tank bottom for clouding
-Do other models print fine?
-Upload your .form here and I have a look at it
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The tank is new, first used with this model.
Other models are working fine.
I’ll check the STL as you said this evening/night. but Meshmixer didn’t found any issues.
I can’t upload it, since I don’t have the permission, sorry
Well, the fact that the supports print so nice and you used a new tank and different resin at least tells you there is nothing wrong with the printer.
If you don’t find the problem and you can’t upload the model, post a screenshot of the cross section (layer) where the printing of the model starts failing.
PS: you shouldn’t place models on the build platform like that - even if they print, the strain on the mechanics and tank will be much higher than with supports.
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The reason I printed the cube directly on the bed was that the removement of the support is quite tedious and i had to ship 50 pcs, I considered this a good idea (spoiler all cubes where fine). Additionally the support generated would be consume as much resin as the cube itself.
Which raises another general question to me, since 3D Hubs cant calculate the volume of the needed support how do you the pricing? simply assuming some percentage offset, hoping it doesn’t need more? I already have trouble, due to failures of such a simple looking model
But anyway thanks for the hint on the strain! could you please add more detail to you explanation? since i can’t imagine why there should be less strain if printing with supports and the same orientation. it has to peel it off anyway?
