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The clicking is telling you what you already are seeing. The motor can’t move the filament. Basically when you add pressure to the lever you are causing the motor to “stall” hence the clicking. You either have a clog or some other obstruction in the extruder or the filament is not moving freely f…
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PLA clogs with Micros Swiss all metals is likely due to heat creep. Most common reason is retraction distance and/or speed to high. I run about 0.8mm distance and 40mm/s.
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That is kind of a tough one. Maybe you can find a specification for the thermos so you can test is to see if it may be faulty. I am not really familiar with the printer. Is there a dual extruder model? Maybe the board has inputs for a second extruder you could possibly use to test the thermos fr…
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Do the extruder and bed read a similar temp when it has been off for several hours so it is at room temp? I think you will find trying to get a temp from the outside of the hot block is not going to be very accurate due to the heat loss through the block, nozzle and barrel/cool section. Will it ex…
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Great to hear! I have not used my nylon yet. Been sitting a few years!
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Nylon must be dried right before use. It can become fully “wet” in 24 hours so even on long prints you may need a way to keep it dry.
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I am going to guess it is a partial clog maybe. Could be the nozzle or further up in the hotend. One issue all metal hot ends have with PLA is heat creep. This is usually caused by numerous fast and or long retractions like when printing something small. The filament gets soft up in the part o…
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Has this filament worked of before? The things that come to mind are to slow it down a bit to say 40mm/s. Reduce retraction, what is it now and what slicer?
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It looks like pretty bad under extrusion but why? Could be a partially clogged nozzle or other mechanical issues. What filament brand and type? Temps and speeds? What type of extruder? Is it an all metal?
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ABS of your choice is no problem. I usually use Hatchbox and eSun. I have several printers available and I use the one most suited to the material and job. I work continually with a number of “Professional” clients. You can see my reviews on one site here - About OKSharPei 3D - Treatstock Parts…
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What are you needing? You can PM me if you want. Location Oklahoma.
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Great when the solution is like an obvious one! You can update firmware from Flashprint for that printer.
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First if you flashed with the on-line version of Sailfish then that can be an issue. The version on the printer is specific to Flashforge. Now, is there any glass plate or other surface on the bed? Use the manual movement controls to move the bed up and watch to see how close the limit switch is …
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Anyone out there using a Fusion3 F410? Considering getting one but few reviews and user info available. Looking for user opinions and experiences.
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Can’t see anything in the picture. What slicer? What print speed? What layer height? My guess is that it is simply from some areas having paths the slicer finds too short to print. You could try increasing the infill overlap.
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When you made the supports thicker did you make more perimeters for the supports? What speeds are you printing at? Another thing that it could be is that the nozzle that is not being used may be hitting the support. It is common for one nozzle to be lower than the other so look into that. You ca…
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Yes it can be made that small. You may want to do it with a nozzle smaller than the “standard” 0.4mm if it doesn’t work to good. If I were making it I would use my printer with a 0.2mm nozzle. I would consider using ABS or PETG for strength. PLA would be ok if the washer sits flat against someth…
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If printing PLA I think you will find that PVA is the best choice. HIPS takes a chemical (Limonene) to dissolve and is also more suited to ABS. Haven’t looked at eSoluble yet.
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Try a 0.2 layer. I find the thinner layers have more tendency to curl or otherwise have issue with heat when on an overhang. Also you can try to point the bow more directly at the fan outlet. Lower bed temps as much as possible and also extruder temp. Sometimes using a raft with 1 or 2 layers th…
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Pretty typical issue for a Benchy and likely a cooling issue. Since you don’t include any settings, materials or slicer hard to advise.
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Need a lot more info. Slicer used filament type and brand settings such as bed temp, extruder temp speeds. Most likely things are the bed is not clean. Gap between the nozzle and the bed is not correct for a good first layer. Temps are not correct. Printing too fast.
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Check in Flashprint under the support settings that you have a gap between the supports and the model that is sufficient to allow relatively easy removal. Usually 1 layer between the top of supports and the model is ok. Also when removing you might look at using an X-acto knife or other object to …
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As far as a machine it really depends on what you need out of it. Size, materials, budget etc. As far as layer heights go the defaults in Flashprint are fine. For a 0.4mm nozzle size a 0.2mm (0.18mm in Flashprint) layer height is pretty standard and I wouldn’t deviate much from it until you reall…
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If you never actually removed the nozzle then my guess is that the whole assemble including the barrel (cold tube) where the filament enters from the stepper may have slid down slightly. If that is the case then it will need a full disassembly to get things back in place.
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Was trying to see the gap between the hex part of the nozzle and the bottom of the heat block but it is covered by the insulation so really can’t see. When you unclogged it what exactly did you do?
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The nozzle is too close to the bed. I can see it from the picture. When it was reassembled something is causing the nozzle to be much lower than normal. When the bed is all the way down by the leveling screws you can get 2-3 credit cards in between the bed and nozzle. Take a picture of the nozzl…
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The block is tightened when the nozzle is tightened. It is possible the nozzle got cross threaded or something is impeding it from being tightened all the way. Google for how to install or change the nozzle an MK10 extruder.
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It is still too close to the bed. What slicer? What is the layer height? Probably need to get the nozzle and block tightened up to get things back on track.
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I would still just wind the bed down and get it out of the way for now. Leave a good gap. Don’t worry about an actual leveling for now. Unload and cut off 5-6 inches of the end of the filament. It may be scarred up from the extruder and not want to extrude. Re-load fresh and let it extruder a f…
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Ok, the clicking is likely the extruder not being able to extrude due to the nozzle being too close to the bed. Run your leveling routine to make the bed get up to the nozzle. Then using the leveling screws - turn them to make the bed move away from the nozzle (down) as far as possible. Don’t for…
