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Ok I sent the factory file to your email address.
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Hello Miaviator, I am using Simplify 3d as slicer and here below are the settings you requested: Printer Type/Model: FlashForge Creator Pro (2016 model) Support Settings: Infill: 30% Extra Inflation distance: 0.00 mm Dense Support Layers: 1 Dense Infill Percentage: 70% Print Support Every: 1…
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Ah perfect that was the last thing I needed answered before I actually bought one. Thanks a lot for the info!
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How are they with ABS and Nylon? I’m planning to get the HT model and want to know what the performance is like.
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I have been in the same boat as you with my ffcpro. I have done extensive research into this for the last month. There are a few options, the best seems to be the geckotek removable build platform. I have also found the zebra plate by printz but there are mixed reviews. The first removable build pla…
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I agree too, my initial reply assumed that you wanted to ensure that you can’t go over a certain current threshold. This would be good to protect devices which might for example short circuit and want to draw more than the amperage it can take causing the device to burn out.
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I agree with you on that one. Try swapping the sensors to test them and you should see if the problem moves to the left hot end after the swap.
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If you want to be able to build a circuit with a degree of control over the current I would go with transistors. For the 10 amp line you’ll need at least a 15 amp transistor shown here: TIP3055 15A 15 Amp 60V Transistor NPN Vintage | West Florida Components for the other power lines you could buy a …
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I just realised you replied to my post about the upgraded 80w hot end. In that case if you were talking about the upgraded hot ends not working with the motherboard then I agree with that statement and you can disregard my last reply.
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I’d agree with this except that when he tested both the voltage and current to both nozzles. The right nozzle ( the one that doesn’t achieve the desired temperature) does get the same voltage but more current. So in theory it should be hotter than the left nozzle. The running idea is that the thermo…
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You know what you have a point. Don’t know why I overlooked that fact. It is getting slightly more current than the left extruder so it should be getting just as hot as the left assuming nothing of the right extruder is different than the left. In that case a faulty thermistor which gives an incorre…
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The heat shielding kapton tape is intact so the heat should be kept in the hot end which is good. The wires to the heating element look fine too so it’s gotta be a defective heating element on the right extruder. Unless anyone else has any other idea’s I think it’s pretty much case closed and pick u…
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You would definitely be able to get to 260 degrees no problem. Just make sure the motherboard can handle such a load. Try asking the company selling the 80w upgrade if the mighty board on the flashforge creator pro can handle the current draw for it. I’m thinking of upgrading my hot ends in the futu…
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I just realized I didn’t answer your question about the heating cartridges not accepting the power they need. I believe that the left extruder is accepting the power it needs since anything between 1 and 2 amps is within the range I would assume to be acceptable ie. Between 24 and 48 watts per extru…
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Well it definitely seems like the firmware, motherboard and thermocouple is working. Since the right extruder is not at the correct temperature the thermocouple is telling the motherboard and hence the firmware that it needs to supply more current to heat the hot end some more. What seems odd is tha…
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At this point I think testing the current going to both hot ends is needed to pin down whether correct wattage is present. Since you have the necessary 24 volts the next step is the current. If something in the heating circuit is defective you should be able to to see it when testing both the voltag…
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Is the overheat light flashing or on steady? The google post I mention below states that if it’s flashing you have a problem which would affect the hot end.
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So I found a Google blog post stating that the overheat light is no longer used for overheating but for the 5v bus according to here: Redirecting to Google Groups so it seems you can ignore that led.
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Try speaking to Mr.Tang from flashforge. He might have more information on the debugging process for the motherboard lights since I can’t find anything on YouTube other than a video showing the motherboard powered off.
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Darn not at my flashforge right now. I’ll look to see if someone posted a video on YouTube real quick.
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The flashforge comes with a 300 watt power supply though so it should be good enough to heat both nozzles. I also think that if it were the power supply not providing enough wattage we would probably see both nozzles not reaching the desired temp.
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Hmm that is strange… The only thing I can think of is that the extruder with the lower temp is not getting the same amount of current to heat the hot end. That’s the only other thing I can think of. I mean the wires are good your getting correct voltage. The thermocouples are tested. Only other thin…
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Ok so you have the latest stable release. There is apparently 7.8 version released but it hadn’t been widely adopted yet so wouldn’t recommend upgrading unless you really feel the need to. Changelogs don’t mention hotends issues either.
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Also can you provide us with the sailfish version you are running I’ll check the changelogs to see if a newer firmware fixed a problem like you are having
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Good point I didn’t think o ask about whether his firmware was glitching before or after the change. Nice catch!
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Just thought about another test you could try; try moving the thermocouple wire while taking a reading with your multimeter at the end that connects to the motherboard. Check to see if there is no break in the wire that may cause the thermocouple to disconnect every time it is moved. I know my x axi…
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If the thermocouple is good and you removed some thermopaste then it might be software. One last question when you heat the nozzles the issues you have are when they are hearing stationary and not moving right? I notice that with my stock hotness with the Hercules full metal nozzle I can’t get highe…
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If all the checks from Ed and Tom don’t work out then try setting both nozzle temperatures to 195 and see if they both get to that temperature. If there is an offset of roughly the same temperature difference when you set both nozzles to 160, then it may be thermistor or software related with firmwa…
