Just thought about another test you could try; try moving the thermocouple wire while taking a reading with your multimeter at the end that connects to the motherboard. Check to see if there is no break in the wire that may cause the thermocouple to disconnect every time it is moved. I know my x axis homing switch had the same issue and couldn’t find the problem until I tested the connector that connects to the motherboard and move the sensor wire. Find the issue and it was an easy solder job. I’ll be waiting for your response
Good point I didn’t think o ask about whether his firmware was glitching before or after the change. Nice catch!
Also can you provide us with the sailfish version you are running I’ll check the changelogs to see if a newer firmware fixed a problem like you are having
Sailfish F CreatorX
-------------------------
Thing 32084 14/11/05
Sailfish v7.7 r01234
That’s what the panel says.
all connections are sound. solid 24v
It can heat the bed and both extruders all at once, the bed works fine, and the extruders heat the same way if you do either of the three or all of them.
Ok so you have the latest stable release. There is apparently 7.8 version released but it hadn’t been widely adopted yet so wouldn’t recommend upgrading unless you really feel the need to. Changelogs don’t mention hotends issues either.
Are the set screws tight on the heaters? Unrelated, but were there display glitches before the changeover? The loose wire while printing theory is good.
I have an extra fan to cool the part that also tends to cool the extruder. Are you using one?
I wiggled the wires like crazy on the thermocouple and they are fine.
Only after I change nozzles is when the panel went strange, but the panel appears to have fixed itself now.
I don’t have an extra fan
Hmm that is strange… The only thing I can think of is that the extruder with the lower temp is not getting the same amount of current to heat the hot end. That’s the only other thing I can think of. I mean the wires are good your getting correct voltage. The thermocouples are tested. Only other thing other than firmware is the current going to the hot end. If you can check the current that would be something else we can rule out. I don’t think they go over the 10 amp max on most amp meters so my suggestion is test the current on both and compare to see if they are both in the same ball park. Do this especially at around the 195 degree threshold when the faulty nozzle doesn’t heat more.
Did you update the power supply? You may not have enough watts now. I think you can do that upgrade with a 220watt, my 120 can barely hold the temp on both nozzles and plate simultaneously.
I have a stock NES-350-24 power supply
The flashforge comes with a 300 watt power supply though so it should be good enough to heat both nozzles. I also think that if it were the power supply not providing enough wattage we would probably see both nozzles not reaching the desired temp.
nothing looks odd with the voltage,
there is this red light on the board that’s on and under it it says y-min and overheat? is that something? or is that normal?
this is what it looks like on the board []=light [1]= the red one on
Y-MIN
R91[] [1]
overheat
[]R109
Can you heat only 1 nozzle at a time? Can both reach and hold the desired temperature alone?
Tom
Darn not at my flashforge right now. I’ll look to see if someone posted a video on YouTube real quick.
Try speaking to Mr.Tang from flashforge. He might have more information on the debugging process for the motherboard lights since I can’t find anything on YouTube other than a video showing the motherboard powered off.
So I found a Google blog post stating that the overheat light is no longer used for overheating but for the 5v bus according to here: Redirecting to Google Groups so it seems you can ignore that led.
