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I would agree with the other poster that suggested underextrusion. What slicer are you using? One of the easiest things to check would be making sure your filament diameter is set correctly in the slicer. Sometimes the default material diameter is set to 2.85mm instead of 1.75mm which will cause the…
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What are you trying to print? Have you tried the models included on the SD card?
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I have a Maker Select Plus so I haven’t had to do some of the mods required for the V2 like the MOSFET, but you’ll find a lot of good info at the following link: Note that the Maker Select v2 and Plus are rebranded Wanhao i3 and i3 Plus models so most of the literature for one brand applies to bo…
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The above response is incorrect. The Maker Select v2 is 12v but the Maker Select Plus is 24v. Source - I own one.
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What is your basis for the claim that the printer uses outdated firmware from Makerbot? My Maker Select Plus reports that it is running Marlin V1 (after sending M115). I think it is a customized build for the touchscreen support but everything I’ve ever read (admittedly not much) indicates that it r…
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We would need more information to help. What model is curling? What models have you printed successfully? What material are you printing with and what are your temperature settings? As general advice, make sure your bed is leveled properly so that the first layer adheres properly and make sure your…
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If you’re just looking at the first layer, a lot of those line width issues can be related to your bed leveling. Too thin and you may be too far from the bed and too flat and you may be too close and are smashing your first layer into the bed. It sounds like you may be too close which is why your li…
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I think it also depends on your personal technical abilities. Are you good with electronics and troubleshooting? In that case a kit may be ok, but you will want to do a lot of reading first on the particular model you end up with because some of them ship with unsafe firmware and/or part design and …
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It sounds like the Y-axis end stop. It is a mechanical switch on the left back side as you look at it from the front. You can move the bed manually towards the back and you should hear it click when the switch is hit. If you hear it click, then check the cabling or you could possibly have a bad swit…
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It sort of looks like you are underextruding especially since you said you switched nozzles because everything was getting too thin, which also sounds like underextrusion. From that photo, it looks like you might be getting good extrusion sometimes because the lower right portion of that rectangle l…
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You could try a web-based slicer like this one: Kiri:Moto You can export the gcode from there, save it to the SD card and then print from the SD card. Overall, you’re going to have a subpar experience (no matter what 3d printer you’re using) without a proper computer though
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Have you upgraded the part cooling at all? I have the same printer and the stock cooling shroud and fan are not very good. Those sagging areas can be caused by inadequate cooling on the part. There are a few upgrade designs on Thingiverse that you can install along with a radial fan to get better re…
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I would agree with underextrusion. I think that version of Cura was defaulted to 3mm for material diameter when I first installed it, which if you didn’t change it to 1.75mm would definitely cause what you are seeing. If the slicer is thinking it is extruding a higher diameter feed material, it isn’…
