-
Day 3 of our community talks with the 3D Printer Guide finalists in the KIT/ DIY category focuses on the Rostock Max, Mendel 90, Kossel and Ultimaker Original+ models. If you have any questions for the manufacturers, other owners or if there’s anything you want to share with us that we haven’t addr…
-
A possibly little known aspect of Cura is it’s ability to produce 3D models from 2D . jpeg and .bmp files. You can see how this works by reading my blog on the Ultimaker CREATE Education website : http://blog.createeducation.co.uk/education/imagine-it-in-2d-make-it-in-3d-making-3d-models-from-jpegs…
-
Don’t get me wrong, i’m not offended at all! It is because you said “I must miss some things that annoy me” why i chose to put it that way
-
point: Ability to set different temperature between first layer yes there is, Plugins tab -> Tweak at Z and you can add more plugin like Skip infill that print external layer to hires anhd infill to 250
-
Cura3D can export gcode for use it in a SD card directly on the printer, I have not found this option in MatterControl?
-
I have test a lot of software, I think Cura 3D is the best for quality and speed. it is open source, regular update, and the community is active. The new version (now is 14.12.1 but I suggest 14.12) have a lot of settings like different speed for external, internal, and fill, type of supports and ot…
-
Of my 4 printers (expecting a 5th child soon) I’d have to rate the Kossel as my favorite because of print speed and because it looks so damn cool. There isn’t a huge time advantage on small parts < 1 hour because of acceleration (you can’t hit 100mph backing out of your driveway). However on large p…
-
Why? I don’t understand this project. Its cheaper to get an injection molded frame and parts from hobbyking. Injection molded parts and milled parts will be stronger and lighter. You’re also competing with a phantom 3 on price which is an amazing out of the box experience. If you’re trying to be …
-
It’s entirely fine electrically to switch out the power supply to a 12v unit, since the Mightyboard accepts inputs of between 12v and 24v, but the problem may be in your heaters for both your bed and your hotends. Typically hotend heater cartridges dissipate 40W under whatever voltage they’re design…
-
i would not even try to print with that much variance in diameter
-
Put a slurry of ABS (dissolved in Aceton) on the buildplate. this helps. Keep the fan off. With this I have had never problems.
-
Hi Dorian, if you haven’t already, I strongly recommend checking out the 3D Printer Guide we put together based on the experiences of our Hubs. Let us know what you decided on
-
If you have not already, I would take the bottom off the printer and make sure all physical connections are seated properly. Maybe to the point of unplugging and replugging everything? Also do this for the connection at the back of the build platform. If that does not work I would start to suspect a…
